axman61

I've read where in place of a thermostat a disc with a hole about 5/8" is used. This will allow the water to get up to temp with no risk of sticking or trapped air. I have, however, never tried this.

Not to speak for Z8Driver, but in this forum I've seen that when bolting the crossmember to the frame rails, regardless of the origin of the crossmember, many drill over-sized holes and insert tubing through the frame rail. In this manner the bolt may be tightened without collapsing the frame rail.

Thanks for the reply. What color is your car? I didn't see the color name in the write-up. Oh yes, will the early bumpers like yours fit the later cars?

Did you consider the factory 'shorty headers'? I have a set lying around, is why I ask. Also, do you think that without too much abuse the diff in a '75 model would hold up?

Yeah Jimi, THAT'S what I wanted to see. I think that will work in my '66 mustang.

I meant that the steering assembly is located behind the front axle.

Thanks, is that all years?

Hey Snyper, is the 240 a rear-steer car? I'm thinking about the front suspension from one of those to install in my '66 Mustang. I would get struts, discs and rack and pinion all at once.

The Fords are expensive. But..True story here; My ex-brother-in-law bought a surplus GBI (Georgia Bureau(?) of Invst.) Mercury back in ahhhhh....about 1984 I think. It was an early '70's model with a 429 Interceptor. It had a calibrated speedo and I was in that car when it shifted from second to drive at 90mph and barked the tires. I was impressed. Those BB Fords can really do it.

How about feedback on this idea. To avoid the hassels of tight fit I am considering fabricating a tube front clip. Then make the stock sheet-metal front a one-piece tilt.

Has anyone done a Buick 215 swap? Distributor in the front, sump in the rear and all aluminum. Rare and small cubes but I think it would make a good cruiser and it would sound good. I am not after earth-moving performance, just good acceleration and a good sounding car.