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grumpyvette last won the day on February 10 2010

grumpyvette had the most liked content!

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About grumpyvette

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  • Birthday 01/28/1948

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    loxahatchee florida
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    engine building & elk hunting

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  1. Zinpieces thanks for posting the clear pictures of the oil filter relocation. Its always rather amazing to me when I find guys who have for decades been forced to temporarily remove sone component like the headers to allow access to remove an oil filter during and oil change when theres been the readily available option to mount a remote mount single or dual oil filter in a far easier ro access location, and the obvious option of adding an oil cooler or dual flow oil cooler and transmission fluid cooler. a little careful meassuring and thinking things through, and some careful shopping f
  2. youll want a decent torque wrench in fact you really should have two, THIS BEAM STYLE TORQUE WRENCH IS THE TYPE TORQUE WRENCH YOU WANT TO CHECK ROTATIONAL RESISTANCE BUT NOT WHAT YOULL USE TO TIGHTEN HEAD BOLTS HUSKY $88 (worked rather well, over all I was pleased) http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-2-in-Click-Torque-Wrench-H2DTW/202916180?N=5yc1vZc6ev FOR HEAD BOLTS AND MAIN CAP STUDS ETC.
  3. http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/can-you-get-there-with-tpi.10494/#post-44299 you might find this useful
  4. first point! be aware that theres a significant percentage of LOW PRICE,VERY LOW QUALITY, IMPORTED CRAP for sale and companys that are basically scams, so Id strongly advise dealing locally if possible, or at least with a well known national firm with a long standing reputation and asking lots of questions, getting answers in writing and contacting the local better business bureau, looking for complaints, and be damn sure to pay with a credit card so you have some recourse if the product is never shipped READ THRU THIS THREAD CAREFULLY http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.ph
  5. if your willing to read through a few linked threads, and sub links I,m sure youll find all the info required http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=109 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=1790 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=5229 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=1639
  6. now I'll admit I have limited experience with the , imports and z cars , having only helped on a few , maybe a dozen v8 conversions and generally build big block muscle cars , like GTO,camaros novas ,corvettes, and street rods like t-buckets and vegas with big block engines, but Ive certainly shredded my share of 10 bolt, and 12 bolt chevy and a few 9" ford differentials in the process and learned what parts hold up as a result. Ive darn sure shredded my share of corvette IRS differentials and half shafts, so any serious race car I build has a dana 60 rear differential custom fitted htt
  7. looks like a real nice improvement thats been done well!
  8. Id point out that one factor many guys over look that you constantly hear about the "MASSIVE TORQUE" the most powerful TPI was the 1991 version "In the 1991 Chevrolet Corvette, the L98 has a compression ratio of 9.5-to-1. Compression ratio lists the difference between the largest capacity of a cylinder and the smallest capacity, as the piston moves from bottom dead center on the crank stroke to top dead center on the crank stroke. In this engine, the mildly high compression ratios (considering the crappy gas available) mean that the engine could produce 245 horsepower at 4,000 rpm and 340 lb.-
  9. While were talking about the larger shop tools here, If you don,t have a swivel hook,or engine leveler/tilter, trust me it makes the job far easier, to have both once you do youll wonder why you ever attempted the job without those accessories, without the swivel hook the engine constantly wants to swing back to one location, it fights you constantly, the tilter makes clearing and indexing the engine angle so much easier buy the 1.5-2 ton rated hook for your engine hoist and grease the swivel center pin on the hook http://www.mfrexpress.com/alloy-swivel-hoist-hook-crane-hook-safety-latch-15-
  10. while price alone is not always a good indicator of quality its usually a good bet that the smaller and cheaper engine stands with the smaller wheel bases, like this http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-engine-stand-69520.html?hftref=cj ARE less stable, with the identical engine mounted on them, and that the slightly more expensive stands, that have a larger and wider foot print, like this http://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb-foldable-engine-stand-69521-8970.html?hftref=cj are harder to tip once the engines mounted, due to simple leverage and physics and that every engine sta
  11. BTW,how many guys own basic machine tools like a decent welder and drill press , air compressor , etc/ http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=10392&p=43018&hilit=miller+252#p43018 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=24 http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=970 heres a darn impressive and logical custom welding project, I found posted on a different site and finding an older flex-plate or flywheel and a spare starter and gear for use with the engine stand as a gear drive and adding some custom crank handle, mak
  12. having done some thing rather similar a few years ago , and knowing the time and money it cost to do it, all i can say is this is a job best avoided if possible but still your works darn impressive!
  13. your missing the point here! NO engine stand design that is safe too use should have a tendency to tip simply because it has a caster wheel roll over a dropped wrench, or hit a floor seam or some other common shop floor hazard, a properly designed engine stand with decent size swivel casters easily takes that type of obstacle in stride, it should remain stable and have no tendency to tip over. its just not that expensive or difficult to select a decent engine stand and go to the minimal effort required to install decent size and quality casters, that make moving the engine stand with the eng
  14. http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=10485 look over this link if you have the desire, a welder , a good deal of fabrication skill and can measure accurately, theres very little in engine swaps that you can,t do.
  15. frank sent me an e-mail, note to tell me about a near miss, he had and , as a result its finally starting to sink in, that the cost vs value of those dirt cheap engine stands is hardly worth the cost saved. http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-engine-stand-69520.html Frank had purchased an engine stand, like this one ,pictured above, from some auto parts store years ago. well last night Frank was moving an engine mounted on that stand and one of the cheap swivel casters locked up in small flaw in the garage floor, the result was the engine fell, and frank without thinking in that instant, tr
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