240RR

I somehow missed this post...or at least did not read it all. This totally makes sense to keep the halfshafts still running up to the wheel at full droop as that was one of my concerns that in travel it should not run through a 0 degree zone...THANKS!!

With the diff at the stock height the halfshafts run at a proper angle but the driveshaft runs uphill to the diff...I think that is a big no no? Forgive my denseness...just so important and do not want to do it over again. So I should lower diff to get the driveshaft angles in check and the halfshafts will run downhill to the diff probably 4 degrees or so....and lower diff equalls lower CG

thanks....that is good info! So...let me see if I understand. 1) Driveshaft angle is at the top of the list and I need to get that right first and foremost. 2) Lower the diff to obtain the proper driveshaft angle 3) Halfshafts are gonna be OK running downhill to the diff as long as I do not go over 10 degrees and make sure shafts are not binding in bump and rebound?

awesome...thanks, that is what I needed to hear! I have a digital protractor that I have been using.

dang...I have been looking and have not found it yet. If it is so universal and easy to find why can't you just rattle it off to me? Not making me feel very welcome! I know what OEM is supposed to be on the half shafts and driveshaft but it is not that simple as the drive shaft then is out of whack if I run the halfshafts to the OEM angle. I know I am a new guy here and lots of people get on these forums and look for the easy answer and don't want to do their own research...I am not one of those guys! I am not doubting it is on this forum somewhere...just not found it yet. I have spent a lot of time trying to research and have fallen short...shoot me! If I find this forum helpful I would like to continue on with posting and updating the project build. I think I just have to find a happy medium with the halfshaft angles and the driveshaft angles...most importantly if the halfshafts can run downhill to the diff? Obviously consideration needs to be given to bump and rebound and not binding up the halfshafts. I assume they don't care if they run uphill or downhill but just wanting confirmation if this.

I did a little...most info appears to be related to swapping diffs in stock locations and not utilizing a tube chassis from scratch build. I would think this would be pretty standard issue info and maybe if I searched more I would find more info but humor me a little with my somewhat specific project and components and help me out please. I am trying to locate a shop that does custom half shafts to pick their brain but for some reason that is proving to be not easy either.

OK...so then I should lower the diff...what is ideal angle for the driveshaft? I assume it should have some angle and not zero? Slight angle down towards the diff? So the halfshaft angle is not really that important as long as they are within 10degrees? If I lower the diff about an inch it would be close to zero angle (not good?!) for the halfshafts. Dropping the diff a couple inches or more lower will have the halfshafts running downhill to the diff. Also the driveshaft would start running downhill to the diff...which is good I think? I know I have to allow for bump with the halfshafts...and plunge with bump and droop. I see you worked with minimum length at full droop. If I lowered the diff a couple inches that would put the halfshafts approximately 3 degrees downhill to the diff and probably have the driveshaft down slightly to the diff....is that a good comprimise?? How much angle do I want to try to get out of the driveshaft? I am shooting for around 3 to 3-1/2" ground clearance....this is a flat bottom underslung rail chassis so the chassis/undertray will be the lowest point. I will maintain OEM suspension mounting points. Also...does the diff need about 3 degrees pinion angle? I also believe the engine is also supposed to be set in with 3 degree angle down at the rear?

Yeah...I kinda figured it was at least to some extent. SO...more help please on half shaft and drive shaft angles from above post number 5 Oh...and yes I know weight is not good but for what I am doing with the car...mostly street driven I am not concerned about the diff being a few pounds heavier. If it was dangling off the front of the car I might be a little more concerned.

So what designation is this Q45 diff...it is the 5 bolt flange one...R200 or R230 or other? I picked it up for $40 and it only has 40k miles on it. I figure this car is going to hover around 2000lbs finished and the diff is good weight in the rear and relatively low. I should have tried out that multiquote.....I think I got lucky with the setup and swap as the Q45 axles work with the 350Z hubs and this was huge! I am altering the width of the body to fit the final width so was not concerned with track width with the component selection. I do have to figure out what to use for front suspension yet...leaning towards late Supra so I can stick with the same wheel bolt pattern easily. Was going to use 350z but the swan neck on the spindle would stick through the fender!

OK...so then I should lower the diff...what is ideal angle for the driveshaft? I assume it should have some angle and not zero? Slight angle down towards the diff? So the halfshaft angle is not really that important as long as they are within 10degrees? If I lower the diff about an inch it would be close to zero angle for the halfshafts and anything lower will have the halfshafts running downhill to the diff? Also the driveshaft would start running downhill to the diff...which is good I think? I know I have to allow for bump with the halfshafts...and plunge with bump and droop. I see you worked with minimum length at full droop. If I lowered the diff a couple inches that would put the halfshafts approximately 3 degrees downhill to the diff and probably have the driveshaft down slightly to the diff....is that a good comprimise?? I am shooting for around 3 to 3-1/2" ground clearance....this is a flat bottom underslung rail chassis so the chassis/undertray will be the lowest point.

OK...building a tube chassis 240z using a Q45 diff, Q45 axles and 350Z hubs, spindles and control arms. Also a VQ35dE engine and 6 speed. I measured the angles of the halfshafts off a G35 and they were about 3+ degrees sloping up to the diff. I set the diff in a fixture that gives the proper angles for the halfshafts. MY QUESTION IS HOW IMPORTANT IS THE ANGLE OF THE DRIVESHAFT GOING TO BE? The driveshaft is going to run uphill to the diff...not sure of the angle yet but looks like maybe a couple inches....

just realized the photos did not upload....will upload as soon as I figure it out. I host my pics on Webshots and pasted the link from there???

Figured I would post up my just started project on here. Basically building a full tube chassis similar to the older Trans Am series and GT1. A lot of 1-3/4 square tubing. Flat bottom with rear diffuser. 350z rear suspension. Q45 VLSD diff. 350Z engine and 6 speed. The Q45 axles work as they are the same spline on the hub end as the 350Z so got lucky there. Axles look to be about 1 inch shorter. I think late Supra front suspension. Trying to build it with a lot of donor stuff...lots of creativity and on a budget. Will end up pulling out the fenders and quarters about 4" per side. Also will pull the rear quarters back about 1-1/2" along with the rear wheelwell opening. Here is the chassis jig I built with pallet rack crossbeams....yes it is straight and level...within .1degree and 1mm and the start of the chassis and the shell