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rhettro74

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Posts posted by rhettro74

  1. 16 hours ago, stprasinz said:

    Why not upgrade to a z31 turbo ecu? Pretty straight forward... 

     

    easiest way, 

    ecu, harness, and afm

    then it’s just a matter of some splicing of the wires. You get a majorly updated ecu then. Making you more power in stock form. 

    Are you selling a z31 setup? 

  2. I have a 77 280z with an 82 ZXT swap 82 engine harness haven't run the car in a while. Now I start the car it will run idle for about 60 seconds or so and then shut off, things are clicking under the hood I think its Injectors but fuel pump doesn't seem to be running. Acts like something is killing ignition as well as fuel pump. After a few mins with the key still in the run position, I can hear the fuel pump start up again but can't start the car. I then turn off the key wait an hour and the car will start and do the same thing again.  

     

    Any ideas? 

    Thanks 

     

  3. For a 280Z I suggest you shorten the front struts for the BZ3099s to fit without a spacer in the bottom and take note of how much you remove from the strut tube. Remove the exact same amount from the rear strut tube and make a correct length spacer to fit the BZ3013.

     

    I am about to start sectioning struts and building coilovers using Bilstein p30-0032 on a 77 280z however if I cut my front tubes to fit the Bilstein inserts as suggested above for the illuminas I would be shortening my tubes by 2.25 inches. The DIY on doing the Bilsteins target is 1.5 inch but then use a 9/16" spacer at the bottom of the tube. I would rather not use a spacer on the fronts if possible but I understand that sectioning more than 2" is a bad Idea. Should I stay with the 1.5" with these inserts? Planning on running Group buy 17" Rota RB-r's 

  4. I have an 81 L28ET in an 77 S30 And am out of town and can pick up some intercooler and other intake pipe and hose. I measured it once but can't remember if its 3" or 2.5" I am pretty sure I want to run 2.5 Inch intercooler pipes but the connection to the AFM is what I can't remember, I don't have the stock Aircleaner to AFM boot.

    Also curious should I just use the AFM Boot off of a 77 s30 and connect to that is it the right size?

    post-1843-008080700 1334953409_thumb.jpg

     

    Thanks

  5. I have a 1977 280z With a 1981 280zx turbo swap. I've got it running but not great still working on guages aswell I have the key off runnon that is supposed to only affect 240's and early 260's so I was doing the diode fix. Non functioning oil pressure, temp and Tach.

     

    Now the car wont start anymore after finding this condensor

     

    Here is a picture of the part in question

    showing wires that were connected it was bolted to the coil mount

    car was running when it was all connected a connection looked weak so I wiggled the wire and it broke then when unplugging the other side it broke aswell.

    post-1843-013567000 1333297421_thumb.jpg

     

    I decided to just plug the wires directly together as I did some searching on this and other sites and was convinced this is just an RF condensor and is to reduce radio interfearance. Started to crank the engine would'nt start and the wire going to the coil started melting the insulation wire. I unplugged the two wires and cranked and it still won't start. Do I need to source a new one and/or did I damage something?

    post-1843-020979400 1333297452_thumb.jpg

     

    Also I at the same time was doing the Diode fix at the alternator T connector, should the car start without this plug plugged into the alternator? my thinking is it's just the exciter that gets the alternator charging and should'nt affect the car starting. Thanks for any help

  6. Ok so I am doing a turbo swap into a 1977 280 from an 1982 280zxt its been sitting for a while now have spark working ok but I was testing my fuel system and I find the following:

    I have wired it according to the swap faq "bumblezee" the leads get +12 for about 5 sec then none I am sure once the car starts it will get power again as it should.

    However as soon as I plug it into my fuel pump I get barely +3 sometimes nothing unplug from pump and the power goes back up I have checked the ground going to the pump and its fine I can leave the ground plug connected to the pump disconnect the power lead to the pump and check and have +12 but as soon as I connect it back to the pump it goes back to nothing basically ---

    Is this a bad fuel pump I am using I think the one from the 77 car.

     

    Thanks

    Rhett

  7. Just got my 77 280 to start with my 82 ZXT engine

    it's been too long. I used the quick FI and ignition 280zxt to S30 turbo swap guide in the faq "Thanks Bumble Zee" But it didn't really talk about how to wire in the fuel Pump unless I missed something. And I had to guess on the 8 prong plug from the ingnition harness as mine is an 82 he showed a 6 prong form an 81.

     

    Right now I have my fuel pump wired into the Switched power "White/Blackstriped" wire in the unused 6 prong plug from the chassis harness that comes out by the steering wheel the same plug that the Green/Bluestriped wire from the fuel pump ends. so I just linked the two together whiteblack to GreenBlue

     

    So currently I have no relay at least I don't think I do, utilized for the fuel pump when the ignition is on the pump is running. Probably not a good Idea but I was able to run the engine. So do I need a Fuel relay or does the ZXT ECU handle it and I just didn't wire it right? If I need a relay which one ZXT or original 77. If I do what and how do I plug into it. Thanks for the help. :ugg:

     

    Thanks Rhett

  8. Hey did you get your Fuel pump wiring finished if so can you let me know how you did it.

    I have a 77 with an 82 ZXT engine and Engine harness

    Also are you using a Relay for the Fuel pump if so which one the 77 or the 82 and how and where do you plug it in.

    All the best

    Thanks for the help

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