Jump to content
HybridZ

Danno74Z

Members
  • Content Count

    632
  • Donations

    20.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Community Reputation

13 Good

About Danno74Z

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Northern Colorado

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. SunnyZ Wow that is something else - Congratulations! Danno74Z
  2. I don't know if this will help but here is one way to go on the Illuminas: http://www.amazon.com/Tokico-BZ3016-Illumina-Cartridge-Nissan/dp/B006MCE6J6 http://www.amazon.com/Tokico-BZ3015-Illumina-Cartridge-Nissan/dp/B006MCE5NI/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_1 Boy I haven't dug those numbers up in years Danno74Z
  3. While you are getting the gears installed you should also make sure the bearings are in good shape. I had a pro shop set-up my differential and the shop told me that one of the pinion bearings was bad. All above board. More work and more cost but 100% in good shape now as the shop replaced all the bearings. The gear set was in great shape. Danno74Z
  4. Here are a couple more pictures of the LSD Carrier and the bushings - 12mm to 10mm. I had to shave 1.5MM from the 10 bushings so as not to interfere with the ring gear sitting flush.
  5. I accidentally deleted the above picture. Here it is again.
  6. Back on the car after a layoff and working on the R200 Differential to Drive Shaft Connection. This topic has been discussed over the years but I figure a current review couldn't hurt. There are many ways to do this but this is the route I chose. I have a R200 from a 1989ZX with 3.54 gears with an open carrier. A few years back I went in on the group purchase and got the revised clutch carrier to make it a LSD. I also have a 1999 drive shaft from a Camaro that I will be shortening to fit the Z with the LS1/T56 combo. I will be using both yokes from that drive shaft. (One can buy the flange from JTR for $65 but I found a cheaper source, see below.) I removed the 280ZX differential flange and installed the 300ZX differential flange that I got from a wrecking yard. I had to hunt for the flange and many did not want to remove it as they wanted me to buy the entire unit. I also wanted the beefier 300ZX flange w/10mm holes and I could not find the correct 280ZX Spicer U-Joint flange to make the conversion. I had spent enough time on this and had to move-on. JTR has the flange but being a cheap SOB I went a different route. The key for me was to find the correct Spicer U-joint conversion flange and I found it at Northern Drivetrain. In the past some have used the 1819 flange but that part is now obsolete. I took a chance on the 1309 flange and it fits PERFECT to the 300ZX differential flange. Below is a picture of the assembly and a summary of the parts used. The bolts are just temporary as I will have to use 10mm socket head bolts for the final assembly. The U-joint is a conversion joint that allows one to go from Chevy to Ford components. The Chevy is a S44 U-joint and the Ford is a 1310. This stuff has been used for decades and like I said there are numerous combinations to make this connection work. I wanted to make use of the parts I already have for this build. Parts used to make the conversion: #1 38210-Y0800-300ZX Flange (Nissan) Nissan Parts Zone ($53.95) I got one from a wrecking yard #2 SPI-2-1309 Flange Yoke (Northern Drivetrain) ($34.24) #3 910-48317 U-Joint Chevy to Ford (Speedway Motors) S44/1301 conversion ($19.99) #4 1999 Chevy Drive Shaft U-joint yoke. Standard S44 joint. (Removed from drive shaft)
  7. Thank You all for helping me out on this. Danno74Z
  8. Litman, You did exactly what I'm doing - Awesome! Yes I have those rubber mounts purchased from GM. I will PM you tonight. Danno74Z
  9. After a little research from the original JTR book both the Datsun engine and the new Chevy350 engine are offset to the passenger side by 3/4". The spacers that JTR sells and has diagrams for calls for 2.5" and 1.5" spacers. I guess to make it easy he added the 1/4" to the driver's side. I will use 3/4" as a starting point. Danno74Z
  10. I thought if you center the engine between the rails you have no room for the exhaust header on the driver's side as it hits the steering shaft? That is the reason the engine is shifted slightly to the passenger side using John's mounts? I'm thinking about 1.5" but want to be sure. Danno74Z
  11. v8dats, Help me out here. Where is your post about wanting pictures of my mounts? I went to your most recent posts and I don't see your request. Never mind, I dug a little deeper and I found your post. I don't have the mount system totally designed just yet but it will be very similar to my test engine stand mounting system. The system uses biscuit mounts that are found on the 2005 GTO and probably the vet. It has two vertical "towers" which are bolted to a horizontal crossmember. That crossmember is then bolted to the Datsun framerails that I have reinforced with 1/8" flat steel. My existing framerails in the engine compartment were in fine shape - no rust but I'm in the process of building my framerails that follow the floor pans. Those were totally shot and bent. As soon as I finish those on to the engine installation. But I need some help from members to my original request for engine placement. Danno74Z
  12. Hi All, I need some help. Can a few members with LSx blocks take a couple of measurements for me? I'm in the process of locating my LS1 engine in the DatsunZ bay and I know the engine is offset to the passenger side by some amount. I'm doing my own mounts and this information would be a huge help. Can you measure from the frame rails both left(driver) and right(passenger) straight over to the engine block. Most folks use John's mounts and that is fine. To the 1/8" is fine. THANKS!!!!! Danno74z
  13. This is a suggestion. Why not take the mustache bar to a metallurgist in your town and find out what grade steel it's made of and the hardness. They can recommend if welding will hurt it or not and perhaps it can be reheated (specific temperature) after your welding to re-leave any stresses. From reading other comments about drilling into the bar it is quite hard and is a SOB to get through it. One thing is certain, as soon as heat goes into the areas of your weld you loose the spring properties in those areas and may be prone to cracking and failure. However as I mentioned, you may be able to retemper the bar once your done welding to get it back some of the spring properties. Only someone such as a metallurgist can give you a straight and accurate answer. Danno74Z
  14. Sorry to hear about the axles not holding up. Saw this... http://www.bossfrog.biz/Miata_V8_Swap.html These are images of the Ford 8.8 in a Miata. Just some ideas for you. Danno74Z
×
×
  • Create New...