Ben's Z

Sent you a PM

Do you plan on answering my private message? I need one of these ASAP.

Update: Still will not disengage. I got another clutch from my supplier and did the 92mm bench test. I put the pressure plate from the new kit on my bench. I put the collar and bearing together and put it on the clutch fingers. It was 92mm exactly WITH THE NA 77 280Z COLLAR, NOT THE TURBO COLLAR I HAVE IN THERE AND WAS TOLD TO USE. I took my trans back out and installed the 77 collar because it gave me the 92mm. I put it all back together and it still will not disengage. I have no slack at the slave cylinder and I re-bled my master and slave, and got a strong stream out of the bleeder. I AM ONLY GETTING 3/8" OF ROD TRAVEL AT THE SLAVE CYLINDER. WHAT IS NORMAL?

My old MC worked fine before the motor swap and my new MC has the same length rod as the old one. The later S30's do not have a return spring on the SC. My old collar was too long.

My new SC rod has no adjustment at the rod. I have a Daikin or Exedy Stage 1 clutch with all 240mm turbo parts. I may try my old homemade rod that I bought the car with tomorrow and see if a little preload on the fork is enough for disengagement.

Hey *EDIT*, Thought you had me blocked. Anyhow, I called the radiator shop and they said they would have coated the tank internally. I flushed it out with purple power and let it dry. (Their advice) I put in all new rubber EFI line and blew compressed air with paint thinner through the feed line from the engine bay to the rear of the car. I installed a Wix clear inline fuel filter between the tank and pump and a new filter in the engine bay. Interestingly my pump was much quieter however my fuel pressure remained unchanged with all this work. I believe the pump might be a little weak. It took about 10 times of cycling the ignition to get enough fuel to fire the engine. Even the clear inline filter was barely filling after a fuel ignition cycles. I may order a Walbro 255 which is necessary for my power goals anyhow and a new OE FPR. Still showing 21psi at idle with 30 psi with the vacuum line removed.

I don't think this will be my issue. I originally tried reusing my 280z collar and it was taller, I couldn't get the slave cylinder back on the bell housing without putting a prybar on the clutch fork to make enough room for the slave cylinder rod, thus I bought the shorter collar. Right now I have the perfect amount of wiggle on the slave cylinder rod at rest. Any tighter and the fork would start to be engaged.

Tank was pretty yucky inside. Oddly enough the tank must have been repaired or boiled out before because it had a metal tag on top of the tank of a radiator repair shop here in Houston. I am going to call them tomorrow to see if they can tell me what they did and when.

I am going to pull the sending unit tonight to get a peak inside the tank. I suspect it could be crusty in there. I am also going to clean the pump strainer and blow air through the lines to see if this ups the fuel pressure.

No Stock 77 5 speed. "Turbo" fork (told not much difference othan ga. thickness) and turbo throwout collar.

I finally got my AEM UEGO hooked up yesterday and my AFR's were initially a little erratic. As the car runs for a few seconds the wide band shows AFR's between about 14.5-16, and sometimes it completely stops reading momentarily (goes way lean) and then goes back to that same readings. I just put my fuel pressure gauge on and it was reading 21 psi with the vacuum hose attached and 30 psi with it off. Obviously this is symptomatic of a bad FPR. However could a vacuum leak cause this low of pressure? I thought I saw somewhere that a NA FPR was the same as a Turbo, however the FPR off my 77 set up has two feed lines and the Turbo one on the car now has 1 feed, 1 return and 1 vacuum.

Dom, about 3/4" I'd say. I just got out of the car. It will go into gear with the wheels off the ground, however when I press in the clutch the wheels keep moving. Grinds when I try reverse. This is a brand new exedy stage 1 clutch, new pilot bushing, new master and slave, new collar and throw out bearing and new clutch fork with clevis on mc rod adjusted all the way out.

Given the fact this not a live rear axle, how could the body bind anything related to transmission? And if I did what would be the cure.

It did work after the new pilot bushing was installed.

I have been all over on this problem. 1977 280Z 5 Speed L28ET swap is done. Originally I tried to install this trans with the 77 throwout bearing collar, the slave cylinder would not bolt back up to the bell housing, and i was told to get a turbo throwout bearing collar. I installed that and the clutch would still not disengage. I bought a new MC and SC, installed and bled. Got strong stream of fluid out at SC bleeder. Ended up removing the trans again and found that the pilot bushing had chipped . I removed the old bushing and installed a new one. Clutch pilot tool slid nicely into pilot bushing. Reinstalled transmissions today with fellow Z enthusiast. Clutch disengaged with car on jack stands and went through gears, tires spun in the air. I let the car down at the rear, front tires on ramps and now clutch will not disengage again! Clutch clevis is almost adjusted all the way out and bump stop is not even touching the pedal. I have between 1/2"-3/4" of travel on the rod at the slave cylinder. Trans was fine before swap. Even with this travel this MC is still softer than the old MC. I am at a total loss for words on this. Why in the hell would the car go in and out of gear running in the air but not while on the ground?