mamba_888
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Posts posted by mamba_888
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Very nice indeed! A Porsche "turbo" emblem, JDM side mirrors, custom exhaust, molded front and rear end. The true meaning of a HybridZ!
...ooops did I forgot the "phenomenal" engine??
!!!!I LOVE IT!!!!
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Blocking of the holes in the balance tube simply cleans up the top of the manifold. Look at the "Euro Manifold" Balance Tube and you will see something with only the Brake Booster threaded hole.
I don't know of anybody deleting the balance tube...it's agood thing to have for the operation of the engine (smooths things out).
People take the coolant hoses off the manifolds for any number of reasons...cool the intake charge by keeping the manifold cooler, etc.
There are actualyl two circuits on the later manifolds, one for the carbs to keep the throttle plate section of the carb from icing up in humid ocnditions and another that heats the manifold during warmup to help cold-running. Ignorance mainly dictates the removal of the whole system, really, as once the engine warms to 170F, the manifold heating section of the water passages is shut off by a thermostat at the rear of the engine as brokebolt says---it really helps promote faster warmups of the engine by allowing considerably more recirculation of the coolant within the block... but who am I to argue with everybody that looked at a 72 Manifold system and never looked any further???
I can see the anti-icing items being plugged, as well as the upper manifold portion when you aren't running EGR...but if the system is functioning it really helps with warmup and cold running cababilities of the setup. Biggest issue with the parts at the back of the engine is sedimentation from dolts who didn't use anti-freeze and sedimented up the thermostat...
Wow. I am a pilot and have never realized that carburator icing was a big issue on cars too. We have a lever inside the cockpit that re-directs exhaust to the carbs when flying and we detect carb icing!
Silly me, I guess I should not forget that they sold Z's in Maine, Minnesotta, Michigan, etc!
Thanx for the update. I guess I thought that the whole balance tube was removed but really, they just button up some vacuum stuff. Thanx for clearing this up in my head.
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...The water flows from the front carb (radiator side) to the rear carb though a passage pipe that should be between the two manfiold halfs. Sometimes these pipes have been removed. Basically each manifold half has a hole threaded for, if memory serves me correctly, a 1/4" NPT barb hose fitting.Best of luck on the project.
brokebolt, you are correct again!! I see the passage pipe and it runs from the front to the end manifold halves and exits at the rear.
Ok... more questions. Why do people remove the coolant fittings? What does the cooling passage do beside the obvious answer I think of that it cools the charge? I don't get the engineering behind this since it looks like the whole coolant path just slings past through the passages.
Next question is that I read people block off the balance tube holes and not use a balance tube at all!! What is the thinking behind blocking them off. I know that the balance tube between the intake manifolds are spots for the brake booster hose, vacuum hoses, and PVC hoses to vent to and that blocking them only ruins the brake vacuum.
Thanx again for allowing me to ask questions.
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I'll answer each inturn.
2A. I think your talking about the balance tube? It links the two manifold halfs together on the top and uses two bolts on each manifold. The 1972 will have no EGR port and the 1973 will have an EGR and it is ported for such. It also has water jackets for faster cold start warm ups. Unless your worried about smog you can use either balance tube.
The round tops had no balance tube included when I picked them up. I'll have to find a 72 balance tube cuz I don't want to *cough* be smog burdened
!Also, you mentioned the water jackets and the round tops has a coolant line in the front carb, do I need to hook it up?
I also don't see an outlet for the coolant line. Where does the water exit to if I hook up this water inlet line?
2B. Use what ever fuel rail you like. I have seen no major advantage between the different fuel rails. But make sure you use a return line, all the stockers should have them but being 30+ years old good luck finding something that is in original factory condition, they are usually all rusty and such as they were covered with a insolation wrap to prevent vapor lockup and a host of other problems.
The fuel rail I got looks really really good so I'll hook them up.
3. The heat sheild should bolt up fine. The only difference between the variations of the heat shield is that they are cut for a heat riser tube that is used on some of the 1972 air cleaner intakes. Those air cleaners usually had a winter/summer selector. The 1973 used an intigrated version but still used the heat riser tube from the exhaust manifold. DO USE the heat sheild (weather stock or aftermarket or home made) as it will greatly reduce carb heat saturation, especially in stop and go driving or long idleing.
Will do! I like the heat shield that I've already cleaned and made shiny!
God bless, my friend!
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Yes I did as a matter of fact. I picked up the SUs on Saturday down Fremont Street. Why? Did you sell me these
???Did you happen to pick these up in stockton? -
Brokebolt, thanks for the reply. This is exactly what I needed for advice! I also have a lot of searches going on @ classiczcars.com and have a loadful of info from it too.
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Hello everyone...
First and foremost, I have searched but found only a trickle of information on this so I am imploring for you SU gurus for help.
I have just purchased a 1973 240z (for 970.00 and almost rustfree) and it has the flat tops. Now I now these flat tops are basically boat anchors and so I went ahead and shopped for round tops and, lo and behold, good ole' local craigslist found me one for $25 bux!!!
I have a fairly good knowledge of the SU internals, how they work etc... and am doing pretty well dismantling and cleaning them up. I am confident that I will have a very good replacement once I'm done. I have checked the "clunking" sound and all's well with both front/rear carbs.
My questions... (finally!).
1) Should I use the E88 intake that came with my rounds or should I just replace the flat top SU carbs using the original intake already in the engine and just mount the 2 roundtops to the original intake? I would rather keep the 1973 intake intact if possible but I'll leave it up to y'all to tell me otherwise.
2) The other sort of thing I gathered using search is that the fuel feed lines differ from the '73 to the '72 carbs. The round tops I got have the intakes but is missing some kinda part on top of the two runners that join some holes on top. The round tops also the original fuel rail (fuel lines). Should I swap these or use the ones already in the 1973 engine?
3) My $25 round tops came with the heat shield also and I know that this is what I would need to use to that the springs mount naturally on them. Would these shields bolt up correctly into the 1973?
I also know about ztherapy and how good their products are but I just want to run my ride as is until I get the RB26DETT engine this one is getting sometime soon.
Thanx in advance for your input.
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Derek...
Thanx for taking the time and granting my request by putting pictures of the A/C install in the engine bay. I'm sure a lot more than just me will benefit from all your hard work!
You are a good man, sir!
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Hey Spider...
Do a search on R180 to R200 swap. Do it in the upper forums. This is really not the place for this question but I do understand you posting here because of your desire to put an RB into your Z.
The R200 is built like a tank and have been used over and over with the high torque V8 swaps. If you're lucky, you might even find an LSD model that most of us want!
So... of you go (Simon Cowell on American Idol) and let's get back to this wonderfully written journal of installing an RB thread!!!!
PS... (a little humor) Hey "getoffmyinternet", my avatar looks like it wants to eat your avatar
!!!What's up everyone out their, I'm new to this forum,and after looking all over the net i found that this site would be the most help to me,So here's the problem. I just came across a 72' 240z, It has 32,000 original miles on it, it's near mint and unmodified, I decided to upgrade and go with a RB26DETT engine w/an RB25 RWD trans, I found a complete swap,eng,wires,ecu,etc. I even found a complete custom engine and trans mounting kit,but my problem is that with all the seaching for this swap i'am very unsure as to what rear end set up I would need for this swap to be functional, my Z currently has the R180 rear end in it, what should I do about that? What should I upgrade to? I have everything already being shipped and I'm up in the air about this, can anyone help? -
Well said, my friend. I was going to chime in but I waited until someone pointed out that porting is not as simple as it sounds. There is a lot of checks and balance that need to be put in place before our "engine" which is basically a big "air pump" (moving air in and out) becomes efficient to the max. I've been reading A LOT ABOUT HEAD PORTING and have been learning a lot about it. Things like "How the AIR wants to flow", the short side radius, where the air wants to "window", the length, angle and area of the port runners, port "biasing", valve shrouding, etc, to say the least.
My only point is that opening up or polishing ports is more involved in itself alone. Opening up port may even cause drops in pressure in low rev situations due to slow filling up of the cylinders because of port velocity losses.
Disclaimer: I AM JUST A LEARNING STUDENT of HEAD PORTING. I AM NOT PROFESSING TO BE AN EXPERT. I just want to share that THERE IS A LOT to be learned about this subject and I really want to get into doing it myself but lack the equipment most specially the "FLOW BENCH".
I would also want to suggest that we have a totally separate "subject matter" on head work and porting. maybe in the "Engine Components" section of our forums. I don't know which administrator to approach so I can suggest this. I am sure, all of us will benefit in having a specific forum for all head work talk on our beloved L engines and who knows, we all could discover the max potential that can be had by sharing ideas.
Thanx for reading.
...Just a note for everyone reading... remember, everything on your car is a package and needs to work together. A fancy custom intake will only do so much with a stock head, stock exhaust and so on. It seams that so many people tend to forget this and think there is one magical itme that will net them big power. If any one figures it out...let me know, and I'll take 2!
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If you noticed on the video, the guy laid down those orange half-balls . I think they are called valve stoppers and the sell them also for 3.50 in the purchase page. You're absolutely right about the valve going down to the cylinder when doing this in-car!!!
That'd be a really tight fit with the cam in. Secondly - if the head is off the car (and you've ever tried to remove keepers from a valve train with any kind of significant mileage) you'll know that the valve will just push right down out of the head when you push on the spring and try to compress it to get the keepers out. Need some way to support the valve and keep it on the valve seat (I've used styrofoam before). Cool tool though. Someone needs to buy one and check it out! -
Hey y'all...
Thought I'd share this to all of you.
"A valve tool that will replace the valve springs and valve stem seals with the head on
the engine or off".
Check put the video at their site. Very interesting and quick tool. I wonder if it will work for the Z's
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Cool. Looks like you've got the pulley problems solved. Honestly, I would love to see you successfully use a salvaged charger. It would be very invaluable to have this custom mounted by someone like you and documented for everyone else's benefit. There are tons of charger sources out there from MBZ to Toyota to Subarus, etc.... Please keep us posted!
...and you're right, maybe this should be on the turbo threads!!!
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SHO-Z. Forgot to give you kudos on your project! I was wondering when someone will find the treasures lurking in discarded superchargers! This is a very common thing to do in other countries like Australia to salvage chargers for cheaply acquired forced induction! How/what are you going to adapt as to the pulley (which will give you your up/down psi). My other car is a MBZ c230 Kompressor but my wife will prob kill me if I take it out
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...In most way I think I perfer points in the distributor and carbs. If it doesn't start I can always figure out what is wrong.
Well, let's not get too carried away with old school here. It seems that the points dizzy is easy to configure and troubleshoot but I do believe in the quickness of electronic ign dizzys! Just too short of a dwell on high revs to get maximum output on points type dizzys
!! As for what type of Mikunis, I love them too but, heck they're hard to find. I'd stick to the Webers and maybe try and see if any of the power valves can be bored out for the forced induction setup. I've seen the power valves bored out on the Holley 650 carbs for more fuel on turbo applications but side drafts are just too much of a new beast. If anyone can figure the turbo configuration on triples with awesome fuel supply curves then, heck I'd turbo my trips in a heartbeat! -
I'm with you on the trips!!! I also love the grunt, instead of the turbo whine (if you hear it at all). Trip webs/mikunis all the way
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BOTH
!!! Seriously, I've had a 1977 Z and loved it but sold it. I've just recently purchased a 240Z. To me, I think the 240Z's are a lot sexier than the later models although a lot more rigid components (differential, engine, EFI, etc.) came with the 280z's. I like the location of the turn lights in the front of the 240 as opposed to the 280. I also like the rear brake lamps.I'd keep the 280 and save $1K from the 240z purchase. The $1K would go a long way into some awesome 280Z mods!
Good luck.
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I'd agree with Derek, the Vintage Air kit is good - I'm just finishing an installation. Note that, though not mandatory, it's just about necessary to remove the dash to do the install of the evaporator and route hoses. Installing the evaporator could be done in a long, dedicated weekend I suppose, if you didn't get stuck in the "while I'm at it" thing, but it would be a very busy weekend indeed. You'll also need to arrange for compressor mounts, condenser installation, and hose routing into and out of the engine compartment, but those can be done in stages.
Hey Scott... I too live in Lodi, Ca off Turner (and sure gets hot here)! I asked a question in Derek's installation thread on how to go about fabricating compressor mounts, condenser mounts, fans, etc. Maybe I could even come by and see how your doing yours (and if you need any help, I am more than willing!!).
Otherwise, I would appreciate if you could post pics and documentation on the engine bay installs that you've done to get the Viking going.
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Derek...
What did you have to do to adapt the compressor into the engine? Was this a hard to do frabrication? I have no trouble with the under the dash work involved but it would sure be helpful if you would document the engine bay work you've done also!
Engine bay pictures would be greatly appreciated too!
Great work and great write up and thanx for making it easy for us wanting to do the same.
... I'm using a SD 508 series compressor with 134 freon.Derek
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I would leave it out. I would rather you spend your time reading about the benefits of porting heads and making intake air flow in better. This is where all the action is most needed. Not just after the throttle valve. Even if you get the swirl going with this contraption, you still have the intake manifold turbulence to consider before you even get to the heads!!!
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Hi Tom...
The link below is a must read on selecting cams. I hope it helps you decide
to release the HP monster lurking in your engine
http://www.datsport.com/Racer_Brown_Menu.html
Jon, I am running MSD 6A with stock distributor.I have wanted to change out cams but cannot decide on how wild to go.
I actually have the MSA Stage III .460 lift with 270/280 duration..
What specs do you think would be good for my engine and track use car only.
Yes I know that I baby my car as far as rpms are concerned. My buddy tells me that everytime we do a track event together and I am shifting way too low in rpm range. But I look at it as just fun and this motor has lasted 6 yrs of track events with comp still at 210 across all 6 cylinders.
Tom
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Should this thread be sent to our trusty FAQ section (like a sticky)??
I think so. Even if it hasn't been tested through time and heat, I think this
still makes for a good start for having our dashes reasonably good looking!
Just my 02 cents...
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I live in Stockton, California about 50 miles south of Sacramento.
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Great find Phil! reminds me of my old parts car (plus floors) lol. I wouldnt mind having one of those again thats actually in nice shape. Warning though, the tranny in that car is a borg warner t5 which = junk. If you need some gear for the 280 I recommend cleaning the HELL out of the ZX and sell, I bet you'll pull at least 2500 bucks... AT LEAST haha, hell if I hadnt bought my Z31T I might have hit you up about it haha.
Hey you guys...
I posted my 1981 280zx turbo (automatic) here at Hybrid for $500 dollars but
no one wanted it!?!?!?
Here is a pic
http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=13042&cat=500&ppuser=17522&sl=m
It's a real steal.. an automatic tho... but the engine runs clean and idles fine. I bought it as a parts car in SAC and I'm selling it as a parts car. It runs great but definitely needs one of the Hybrid Z people to bring it back to it's greatness.
Didn't have any responses from or classified ads but if anyone is
still interested in this CALIFORNIA car... PM me!!! Buyer pays for shipping
is any! I was putting the engine in a 240 but decided on a 383 instead.
!!!!
!
???
!!!
!! As for what type of Mikunis, I love them too but, heck they're hard to find. I'd stick to the Webers and maybe try and see if any of the power valves can be bored out for the forced induction setup. I've seen the power valves bored out on the Holley 650 carbs for more fuel on turbo applications but side drafts are just too much of a new beast. If anyone can figure the turbo configuration on triples with awesome fuel supply curves then, heck I'd turbo my trips in a heartbeat!
!!!
!!! Seriously, I've had a 1977 Z and loved it but sold it. I've just recently purchased a 240Z. To me, I think the 240Z's are a lot sexier than the later models although a lot more rigid components (differential, engine, EFI, etc.) came with the 280z's. I like the location of the turn lights in the front of the 240 as opposed to the 280. I also like the rear brake lamps.
Looking for information about a spoiler
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
Just saw one currently on eBay and here's the link.
Hurry up! This can be snatched up very quickly.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Parts-Accessories_Car-Truck-Parts-Accessories__DATSUN-240Z-WING-SPOILER-IMSA-KAMM-EFFECT-3-PIECE_W0QQitemZ130243027015QQddnZPartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQadnZCarQ20Q26Q20TruckQ20PartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQddiZ2811QQadiZ2865QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item130243027015&_trkparms=39%3A1|65%3A10&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245.l1318