johnbell

Accidently stumbled onto this thread looking for something else. I went to the wrecking yard and got a Ford 2 speed fan complete with the shroud. This fits my Radiator perfectly, and looks like factory. I got one off of a big ford, I think a mercury marquis a Lincoln (93 to 96). This coupled with the triple relay and double sensors at 190 and 210 degrees keeps my 350 cool. In fact, I wired it so that the fan comes on high speed when the A/C is turned on which makes it run two needle widths toward cold on a hot Texas day with the A/c running! These fans are killer. The fan shroud from the big fords will have to be installed upside down and two of the plastic mounting ears cut off. I even moved the warning sticker from bottom to top. looks factory.

I was going to bring this banging up, just kept forgetting, my mufflers are installed two side by side on the vertical and they do bang when the car first starts up, I have no clue why the banging stops after the muffs warm. I look at it as just an anomaly to a great fix!

I have been hunting a drivetrain vibration for a while, finally found it in the bent pinion flange. This is where the driveshaft connects to the pinion. I cant seem to find the part new, has anybody got a good used one? Thanks!

I'm thinking that I spent waaay too much on exhaust until I finally got on this thread and bought the Dynomax VT's That fixed the damn drone, Highway speeds are quiet as a mouse, step on it and it sounds very nice. I have 2 1/2 pipes coming off of Sanderson block huggers, then an X pipe and generic glass packs just behind the rear axle then over to two Dynomax VT's. I had to cut a chunk out of the spare tire well to do this, but a donut still fits in the well. I found a donut that fit at the wrecking yard, and they gave it to me free. I have to have wheel spacers for the donut to work in the front to clear the calipers, but oh well, it'll get me home. I am here to tell you the Dynomax Vt's are the way to go if you want a quiet car in normal driving, and aggressive when you stand on it.

By the way, I have not seen how you install the laser on the transmission end..Had I though I needed to I could have worked it out, but the initial instructions are wanting on this! Suggestions??

my bet is that you are correct in alignening both,, My problems were: one of the cat toy lasers was so misaligned with the body of the laser that it was not usable, nor returnable after modification. My suggestion is for anybody doing this is to mount the laser in a drill press or a lathe chuck and see how far it is off to start with. these guys are cat toys, not precision. anyway, i ended up with one usable laser. after having to true the diffy flange, etc. I was about tired of fooling with this, laying on my old back. I managed to get the laser to scribe a perfect circle around the output shaft of the T-5 transmission. I figgered that was close enough..proved to be true. You know a 7/8 inch difference in alignment in a 30 inch shaft is a lot. I know, I know, we want a 2 degree difference on each end and no lateral difference. But tell that to a jeep guy, he'll laugh. they run a lot of pitch and get away with no vibration..the trick is..one plane only..up..down. Or. side to side. but not both..I cannot tell you how many boat drive shafts that I have lined up. I just forgot what was important and what was not. Let's not make a bigger deal out of this than what it is. I believe this, from reading all of the post that are applicable, You don't know what you got till you check it!! All of these hybrids are different!! I had to lower my diff, one other guy had to raise his, and raise the tranny too! I could not raise my tranny without the harmonic balance r getting into the front cross member. But, I do not have the 3/8 spacers between the body and the cross member. I betcha that is prolly why JCL put them in, Drive shaft alignment. Anyway, I'm well on my way to having this fixed and again, I appreciate all the input!!

Gathered the magnets, laser pointers and other implements and tore it down. The red lock tite on the drive shaft bolts was my first problem. Got em finally, then the magnet would not rest on the differential flange, I took the flange off, found the nut to be loose, trued the flange with a big file, got the laser mounted. It pointed about 1 1/2 inches ABOVE the tranny's output shaft. I pulled the four bolts on the ron tyler mount and wedged the front of the differential down to where the laser lined up with the tranny's center. this turned out to be 7/8 of an inch. I just spaced the poly mount down on the Ron Tyler which lowered the front of the diffy the required amount. Eureka! the vibration is gone. There is a new one at about 90, but its' more of a noise than a shake. I think this is gonna turn out to be something in contact with something else. Anyway, thanks for the advice and let me tell you all, ol' John Bell is one happy camper!

My 260 has this problem, i believe. It is like a Buzz, starting at about 65 or so, pretty bad. Guess I'm heading uptown to look for laser pointers, etc..I suspected my half shafts before I read this, but now I don;t know. The half shafts, with a dial indicator at the middle will deflect about .o10 with moderate pressure, Anybody ever checked this? I took them apart and regreased and they looked pretty good to me.

I am running a Donut out of a Sentra. I have to use wheel spacers on the front due to clearance, but it works. Works on the rear without spacers due to drum breaks still. Wrecking yard gave the brand new donut for free, spacers at Autozone for 10 bucks.

I am running a single turbo muffler on a 2 1/2 pipe, droning is awful...I am thinking of going to an x pipe and another turbo..will this stop the drone or do I need to go to maybe walker quiet flows? I have spent a lot of bucks to make this car quiet and that is what I really want. I have a mild to middlin 350, headers, slightly lumpy hydralic cam, roller rockers, air conditioning, all working everything. But so far the car is uncomfortable due to exhaust noise..experience is appreciated!! Especially if you have part numbers that work!! I forgot to add that I cut 5 1/2 inches out of the spare tire bucket and put a Sentra donut in to have room for another muff..

1974 260 z, need a new or good used dipper switch for the headlights..pm @ johnbell47@hotmail.com. thanks!!!!

I owe you 50 cents. this mustang valve looks exactly like mine. this is a 1 1/2 ton valve, I hope i can get that much out of this system, lol. With that tiny evaporater I bet I dont..we shall see. Any way thanks a bunch!!!

Having a little trouble uploading pics, lets see if this works...50 cents to the guy that points me to this valve!! thanks Please Resize Images to: 1024 x 768 MAX If you upload them at www.imageshack.us there is an option to resize them right on the website. 340 k or smaller

I have a 260 Z that I am working on to get the air running. It has an evaporator case with an ARA tag That reads Datsun 280 Z(Grand Prairie Texas) I know this must be aftermarket or dealer add on. Anyway, I looked at the FSM and the expansion valve I have does not look anything like factory valve. Mine looks like a normal regular valve L shape with a coolie hat and sensor blub pigtail coming out of the coolie hat. This valve won't open or close..I froze it, I warmed it, I cleaned it. I flow tested at 150 psi and dropped the pigtail in salted ice water which took it to 20 degrees, nothing. There are no numbers on the valve. What the heck do I have..I can post pics if you need em. thanks!!

I gutted my tach case and put the workings of a Sun super tach in. Works good! the only real challenge was the needle, I had to ream the Datsun needle with a tiny little drill bit to get to the correct size..but it looks stock.