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EF Ian

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EF Ian last won the day on January 11

EF Ian had the most liked content!

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About EF Ian

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 04/30/1988

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Portrush - Northern Ireland
  • Interests
    Cars, Motorbikes, Boats anything with an engine, Watersports.

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  1. Yeah, I completely missed out some posts on this thread somehow.. After reading them they all agree with what I was thinking.
  2. While I like the idea of reinforcing the front around the radiator panel area between the rails due to how much stiffer it could make the chassis I would be worried about problems that could arise from an unfortunate front end knock hence why I left mine stock and didn't stitch weld past the support. What are others opinions on this?
  3. 11 years, thats a long time, you definitely deserve to enjoy this epic Z you have built yourself. Some videos at some point would be great. Bad job on the wilwoods, my smaller setup works great but I did have an mind to upgrade to an AP Racing setup when I can.
  4. Well, progress is slow, but at least there is progress. There is both good and bad news. Bad news is that there is going to be more work and cost than planned due to us finding lots of badly done previous repairs all of which will need fixed and I expect some more will be revealed during blasting. Good news is at least it proved my approach of going fully bare metal has been justified and my view that most places do a crap job of metal work has been proved correct. Good that all issues will be found and addressed and my choice of using Resto shack to ensure the work is done as best as possible is a good one. Badly repaired rear panel Gone, right side bumper mount was bent, its now been sorted. Rotisserie mounts made: Scraping time Steam cleaned Unwanted brackets and holes in the bay welded up
  5. I was considering adding traction control as an upgrade at some point so a T3 part to run a sensor on the front would be useful.
  6. Nicely designed. I am understanding this right? They are straight pipes when the valve is open but with it closed the exhaust is forced to go through a double pass muffler?
  7. Lastly it was on to the fan box. This was looking a bit sorry for itself. Took it apart: I cleaned all the parts up and removed all the old foam which had turned to powder Sent some parts for blasting Primed them: Sprayed them, wasn't easy as the one on the right has lots of brackets, gaps, internal parts, edges and so on which all needed to be properly coated. Also for larger jobs like this I really need to get an air/water separator. A 300L compressor was planned as part of my garage extension but that hasn't happened yet so still working from a small one. Started reassembly: All back together and with the foam all replaced and the heater core flushed it should operate better than before. They definitely don't look >40 years old now.
  8. Apologies for the large photos, I have ajusted my settings for future uploads. Next I turned my attention to the heater box: Radiator was looking a bit rusty and the foam around the core had disintegrated
  9. Apologies for the photo sizing for the next few posts, I have now adjusted it for future posts. So, since I can't help with the body restoration (still waiting to get blasted anyhow) I've been doing what I can with the parts I have with me. Starting with the starter: Then the propshaft, I thought this was going to be an easy job, but there was rust under the paint so I had to take it all back to bare metal: Thottle Pedal. Unlike the other items I decided to have this one powedercoated. Going to be updating to this Honda wiper motor as the original one is a bit lame: I'm not putting something looking like that in my restored car though. Thats better: Some parts only needed a clean:
  10. Thats a nice idea. Just wanted to wish you good luck.
  11. Have to agree with that. If I was doing my build now I'd definitely run a PDM. As it is I am considering re doing the interior and accessory fuse box with a PDM 15, just not sure if its worth it for just that when the main ECU and engine parts wont be using it. I do not wish to re do my mil spec interior harness for the ECU because its too expensive. You also made me think I too should install a circuit breaker by the battery.
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