zspeed22
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Posts posted by zspeed22
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Elegant in its simplicity! Which water pump and balancer are you using?
All accessories are F-body. With milling the back for the single bar and keeping the stock F-body mount it worked proper for spacing of all F-body accessories.
Waterpump - AC Delco part# 252-846
Alternator - AC Delco part# 334-2486A this is a reman part.
Tensioner Assy - Gates part# 38195
Idler Pulley - Gates part# 38041
Balancer/Pulley - Fluidampr part# 740111
There is no power-steering pump or ac involved with this setup of course. Also I have not sorted out the part number for my belt yet. I need to get a line and measure it.
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Post close-up cell phone photos if you get the chance.
There is space between the nut and the valve cover just hard to get a picture of it.
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Post close-up cell phone photos if you get the chance.
I am not sure if this helps. I am currently at work still and this is the only photo I had of it. I will get one of the backside of the alternator as well.
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Photobucket is dead. I wish they would allow hyperlinking from google but it states extension is nor allowed. I use it on other boards all the time
I agree its been some time since I have been on here I am going to have to switch over to another service. Anything someone recommends?
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Zspeed22-
How did you mount your alternator?
I milled the back of the alternator so the plate mounting to the head would be flush with it. Then using a stock Fbody mount for the rest of it directly to the engine.
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5.3 with single PTE 7675.
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For non Napa specific part number use the following Gates numbers.
Gates,
20338 - Short
18077 - Long
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Nice, I might do this but shorten the length that the vbands stick out.
I did end up having to mill the back of the Alternator when I did this so the thickness of the bracket coming off the head did not change angles on anything. I also planned on pie cutting them down to a smaller vband. If you notice they would hit the factory heater bypass lines on the water pump. You could do a few things with that. I decided to cut the pump mill the center out and cap it. This way it can internally bypass.
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I just dont know how to mount the alt to clear the hood. Passenger side will have issues with the down pipe. Truck mount for high alt on drivers side hit the hood. The low mount way also creates issues with exhaust path. I would rather go under the header than over. IMO.
This is what I did for the alternator with the stock Fbody mount. I have seen a few people use this method in the past.
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1: i most likely will cut where it hits a fab up a "prettier" fix for the tunnel.
2: My first purchase for this endeavor is going to be a beefy tranny jack.
3. its going to be controller via the 5.3 computer tuned with hp tuners. with a transgohd2 kit.
besides the dirty dingo, what headers are your running. I would love long tubes, but that can wait i just want mounts that will better help me when i do get long tubes.
These are just the Ebay up and forward manifolds nothing special. They will cross up to a PTE 7675 turbo.
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So you want to shove a 4L80 in a Datsun. I commend you on this decision. I did this as well and it is all mounted and am pleased with how it turned out. A fair bit of warning I will give you with going this route.
1. You have to cut out the stock mounts and beat a whole bunch in with a hammer.
2. They are massive transmissions and handling them under a car without a hoist/tranny jack is not easy.
3. You will need to have a computer that can control it along with the wiring. I am running a Holley Dominator and purchased their 4L80e pnp harness.
I used dirty dingo engine mounts along with a custom trans-mount bolted through a stock/energy mount. I also used the Tremic app on my phone to help align all of it up. I know that sounds weird but it has you take measurements from multiple locations to help determine the correct mounting angles. Either way good luck and be patient.
In the pictures you will see my mount that I made. It is defiantly not pretty and I was not worried about exhaust since I am doing a front exit but I will defiantly be strong enough. The last picture of the up and forward manifolds flipped over with the dirty dingo mounts clear without an issue.
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Maybe you will have to bring it out to the next MAP proving grounds event in September if you are moving to the citys. I am hoping to have mine making passes by this event.
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Zspeed22-do they clear the steering rod too? How is plug wire clearance?
They do clear the steering rod without an issue. Also plug wire clearance is not an issue either because of how the tubing is spaced. Honestly they two issues I have with these are the giant collector vbands, and how far forward they put the vbands. Those are two things I can easily work with.
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Any chance they could be flipped to install up-side-down?
They defiantly do fit with the dirty dingo mounts upside down. The alternator will have to be moved up top to clear.
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What manifolds and engine mounts are you ruining? I like the setup looks good. Also is that a holley mid rise fitting under the stock hood latch?
5.3 s480
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A t56 will fit the trans tunnel without modification yes. The turbo selection is really all on placement of the turbo. A precision 7675 is a small enough housing you do not have any issues fitting one of them. Biggest thing to remember is there is no such thing as a 100% plug and play for a z LS swap you will always be modifying, building, or just inventing something that will suit your swap needs. The easiest for wiring in my opinion is to buy all Holley LS stuff. Can get very expensive but will make life much easier. In the end you are putting an engine in a Datsun that when i was built never existed.
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Sadly no I do not, If you wanted to cut and weld V-bands, close to the first runner along with possibly filling in some gaps, they would work just fine because they do hug the block nicely. I just decided to go a different route then cutting them.
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So these are tight enough to fit into the frame rails but run right into the engine mounts. I was lucky enough to barrow these for test fitting. I think I will be going custom made as well.
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Hello all.
I plan on using these for my turbo setup they have a nice tight design and I have seen them used many times with Vbands welded onto them. Just thought I would share with everyone.
https://holley.com/products/exhaust/headers_and_exhaust_manifolds/exhaust_manifolds/parts/8501HKR
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Test fitting my engine with the Dirty Dingo mounts. Took the pictures for myself then decided I could share them here. This is with the engine pushed all of the way back. No issues with steering. I am using a Fbody pan
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+1 on this thread.
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Picture I found on LS1Tech researching Dirty Dingo mounts. Looks like it clears steering, but does not allow low mount f body alt bracket? Not 100% sure on the low mount f body bracket as I have not tried it myself.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1737523-another-ls1-swapped-books-76-datsun-280z-3.html link to build thread on LS1tech.
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What engine mount setup did you go with? Very cool build.
Picked up a '78 LS1 swap project, have a couple of questions.
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
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Caution on the 4L80E as you can make them fit in a 280z it is not the most enjoyable thing to do. Also you will need a custom trans mount as I don't believe there is one out there.