zspeed22
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Posts posted by zspeed22
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Here's a picture of the edelbrock high rise intake, as the holley doesn't clear.
0518151540.jpgWhen you say the Holley intake dose not clear what model were you talking about? I am looking at running the Holley mid piece.
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Now how about if you have a throttle body coming forward, and a 3 inch pipe off of it do you still have clearance forward? Does look really cool as it sits.
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Since I need the pan, windage tray, pick up, dip stick tube, and dip stick this process would be easier. Also they are hard to come across on ls1tech that are in worth while condition at a decent cost.
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Has anyone tried the performance GM swap pan kit? Big cost difference with them and just curious if they work.
Muscle car swap pan kit - 179.99
http://dirtydingo.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=1_356&products_id=1461
Fbody Pan swap kit - 329.99
http://dirtydingo.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=1_356&products_id=1450
Top pan is the muscle car swap pan the bottom is the Fbody pan.
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Hello Everyone,
I dont hardly post here. I mainly use the forum for all its great info, but when I received the following email from Rockauto I figured it would not hurt to share it with everyone. Please see it below.
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We have a limited number of wholesaler closeout parts available for your 1977 NISSAN 280Z and possibly other vehicles you work on. Wholesaler closeout parts come from manufacturers, retailers or distributors who, for whatever reason, decided to reduce or liquidate inventory. We pay less for these parts and can offer them to RockAuto customers at bargain prices. Some of these products were discontinued by manufacturers and may be hard to find after these closeout parts are sold. If you're planning for future repairs or if you've postponed maintenance, now is a great time to buy the parts you need!
The links below display the wholesaler closeout parts available for your vehicles. Wholesaler closeout parts are also listed in the RockAuto catalog alongside our regular inventory.
Wholesaler closeouts for your 1977 NISSAN 280Z:
http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1209248&m=wc&l=en&html=true
We regularly add new wholesaler closeout parts to the RockAuto catalog. We will send an update email like this one, covering up to three of your vehicles, at most once every three months. To be notified immediately when a closeout part for your vehicle is added to our catalog.
Enjoy the savings, and thanks for being a RockAuto customer!-------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks again everyone for the great info you provide to hybridz .
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Very cool. A lot of body work to clean up but what 40 year old car wouldn't.
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Thanks for the info mtnickel. I did not know that about the daughterboards.
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It is 60 dollars for the board then you still need the Nistune software to talk to it. The ad says for 220 AUD "205 USD" for the software. My guess is they build these boards based off the original ones. Something along the lines of reverse engineering it I am not completely sure. For the extra 120 USD, "I believe", going direct to Nistune would be you best course of action. If you have any hardware or software issues Nistune is great help. Also if you loose your software key and need it retrieved for you they are very prompt to do so. I would question that out of a eBay knockoff. Also I have Nistune running on a Z32TT and am very impressed with the software just dont forget to burn to eprom even after your write to the ECU otherwise after you reset your ignition you will not have a tune anymore.
Also side note- The below text is direct our of there ad and the line "may take tunes with our DaughterBoard" is not very reassuring.
Works with : 200sx S13 redtop and 180SX blacktop SR20DET, Primera P2 SR20DE, BG5, 200SX S14, S14a and S15 SR20DET, Z32, Y33, ER34 RB25DET
ECU’s of all these cars are different, but may take tunes with our DaughterBoard.
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Specialty Z. Greg Dupree is the Z32 king.
Agreed Greg is a very nice guy. Had a question on one of his parts. Turns out he actually answers when you call and will give you the explanation you need. Great guy.
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I have everything I need except the following two items,
AFM bracket from the meter to the frame
Starter Relay/Seat Belt Relay for an automatic, also need all the relays and switches for the ac.
Thanks everyone for the offers.
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Hello,
I am after 4 separate switches/relays that are on the passenger side of the car. If you look at the attached picture I have circled in red what I need.
Pressure SW. (A/C Only)
Magnet Valve-Vacuum Source (A/C Only)
Compressor Relay (A/C Only)
Starter Relay w/pigtail harness (Automatic Trans Only)
This is based off a 1977 280z with an automatic transmission and A/C. Please PM me if you have anything or email me at zspeed22@gmail.com.
Thanks,
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I am running the 8 hole Energy one on my steering nuckle. I replaced those and the steering rack while the motor was out. You just need to make sure if you do that the 8 that it lines everything up correctly.
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Hello,
I am in need of a few factory nissan/datsun parts for my 1977 280z. I am doing a factory restoration and would like to keep it all original parts if possible.
- Factory air intake tube everything before throttle body except AFM. This includes stock blue airbox/hoses
- Braket for fuseable links
- Braket for Carbon Canister and a Carbon Canister
- Braket for AFM 4 bolt on the bottom of AFM
- Almost all Brakets that are on the passanger side of the engine bay
- Stock Radiator -This is off an automatic car with A/C
If you are doing a part out of a 280z and have alot of miscellaneous engine bay hardware that you cant get rid of let me know.
zspeed22@gmail.com or PM me on here.
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Who is going to be doing the tuning on the car? Joey @ Excessive Autosports here in Sioux Falls, SD, has a huge amount of experiance tuning E85/E99 LS engines had all my Subaru work done on his AWD dyno.
This project looks like an extream amount of fun/headaches. Ill be down at KC2K14 hope to see it down there if you make it.
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Ok so after searching batch fire I found this on the forum from BRAAP. Thank you for the help clarifying how to sort out my wiring delema. I might be the only one but batch fire seems like a terrible way to fire injectors. Is there any issue in L28s with rings getting washed down by excess fuel? Obviously Nissan did this for a number of years so it works my brain is just confused on how it works without causing issues. Thanks again for your help.
FROM BRAPP. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/61625-new-fuel-injectors-and-rail-no-start/?hl=%2Bbatch+%2Bfire&do=findComment&comment=568097Ok. lets nail this down.
1) You have a measured 40 PSI at the injectors while cranking.
2) The car finally sputtered briefly.
3) Injectors removed, noted only 2 injectors (new/used OE S-30 injectors) sprayed fuel while triggered.
Kind of sounds like either the injectors are stuck closed or you have faulty connections at the injectors themselves. Just swapping out injectors and fuel rail, sounds more like stuck/froze/corroded injectors than connections.
First, lets get the batch vs. sequential injector firing myth/theory squared away, for the 10,485 time.
The S-30 and S-130 injectors and firing orders. The numbers on the injector wires are only there to confuse people. No really. Those numbers serve no purpose other than to set the wiring so that the wire lengths all match up nice neat and purty like. The S-30/S-130 injectors are fired batch mode. They all fire at the same time, each and every time. It makes ABSOLUTELY no difference WHAT-SO-EVER what order you swap the injector plugs, the engine will run EXACTLY the same every time and the injectors will fire exactly the same at the exact same time, PERIOD! Of course, so long as the connection is good.
The S-30/S-130 injectors are a low impedance injector and as such utilize a dropping resistor, one per injector, which reside next to the clutch master cylinder. The location is not important. If you have an old EFI wiring harness laying around, cannibalize one of the injector connectors, or water temp, Thermal time, cold start injector, or IAC connectors with and extended pigtail on it, +36” in length. With injectors on the fuel rail, fuel system pressurized, The injector to be tested dangling in a clear glass/fuel safe jar, go through each injector. (Please OH please, be VERY careful as you are spraying fuel near an electrical source, i.e. the battery. Please use some sort of enclosed electrical switch/button to reduce the risk of fire. PLEASE!!!!!) You want to trigger those injectors directly from the battery, hence the +36” pigtail length. Don’t hold the injector open for any period of time longer than 5 seconds or so, just for quick short bursts at full battery voltage, (no dropping resistor) in an effort to “unstick” a possible stuck pintle valve. Note the spray pattern. Typical OE S-3-/S-130 injectors have a shallow stream/squirt gun like pattern, especially compared to modern injectors. It should be conical in shape, not too heavily biased in any direction. -
I was not aware of batch firing the injectors. I come from a TT 300zx background where I converted from NA to TT.
I have been told by some that when you do a batch fire they fire two cylendars at once not all six. This would be slghtly ineficient for the injectors all to fire at the same time wouldnt it?
So just so I have things straight I can put what ever injector plug where ever I want? Obvously the length of the harness will determine how it lays out across the engine but other then that I would not have an issue?
Thank you again,
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Hello,
I was trying to figure out the best way to identify what injector plug goes to what injector.I decided this was my easiest way to do it. So I made a simple .pdf from from Excel that gives the ECU pin out to the corrisponding injector and that way I will be able to just use a meter to find what injector plug goes where. If anyone has a better idea or knows a way to easily do this please let me know as all the help would be appreciated. I hope this document will help other people with my issues. This info was pulled from the 280-Z Electronic Fuel Injecton Theory and Troubleshooting book.
Thanks,
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Not quite sure what you are asking about the fuel filter you can still run the Sea Foam threw the gas it will clean your injectors out. Also for the fuel injector guys on my 300zx i just pulled the Brake booster line off that is "T" into the intake manifold and you can clean the carbage build up that way or spray your throttle body out with some Carb cleaner that will also help with some bad idle proablems kinda a stray from the topic but it works wonders as well for the car to run smooth.
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Sea Foam is good stuff pour some in your gastank pour alittle down each carb make sure to run it threw the carbs at about a constant 3000 rmps will smoke alot but help clean alot of things up.
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car-part.com check there they have many maxima LD28 engines ive seen a complete engine as low as 200 I do not belive they sell the crank allone but you could always ask. Good luck with the search
1978 280z dirty dingo mounts.
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Posted
I purchased the Dirty Dingo kit with plan on doing a forward facing turbo. The motor is currently at the machine shop once its back I will let you know how placement goes for me with the bolt in kit.