ZSPEED77

I never really solved it but it is better under control. I pretty much expect my block to be the main issue. I will know for sure when I change it out sometime in the future. I've had to flush out my block because it has a reddish brown mud in the coolant passages and it never seems to go away. I currently run around 210 on the highway with a/c and my Taurus fan on low speed. We've had around 60 days of 100 degrees + weather here and it seems to be doing ok. The high speeed did come on a few times which is around 220 degrees for the sensor I am using. Removing my front bumper helped alot although I really don't drive over 70mph. It would probably run hotter if I did. I currently have 2 sets of hood vents. The radiator fan blows through the front set. On the rear set I put on the covers from MSA that look like mini cowl induction scoops. I recently reversed them so that they are facing forward. When I did that I reduced the inside temp a whole lot. Before I did that my firewall was generating so much heat that it felt like a convection oven inside even with the a/c. It definately feels alot better now. It didn't help the engine any though.

On mine i used all stock nissan parts including the linkage under the car except the lever on the tranny. The lever on the tranny was made from scratch to get the hole position in the right place. It takes a little tinkering but that's all. I started out with a Turbo 350 and now have a 2004R. The only difference between the two was some minor linkage adjustment under the car. I also flipped the lever arm on the bottom of the shifter to the driver side like previously posted.

It's on the southside. Around Pearsall Road I think

I spoke to the guys at Transgo and he told me you can set up a 2004R to lock-up without using electronics. He also said there were a few ways of doing it. If you guys have tranny questions I would suggest calling them. The guy I spoke to was very knowledgable and willing to answer questions. From what I was told from the people I got the tranny from, this tranny will lockup anytime it's in 4th gear. Guess I'll know when I put it in...

I just bought a 2004R with lockup converter to replace my TH350. Everything I've read suggests that in order for the 4th gear lockup to work I have to buy the lock-up kit which comes with a solonoid and vacuum switch. The people I bought bought the tranny from in Florida say that the tranny will automaticly lock-up in 4th gear with hydraulics. They said in order to use the electrical kit I would have to drop the pan and replace something, which is where I believe the solonoid goes. It does have an electrical plug on the side. Looks like a 4 prong, kinda square. Electrical kit or no electrical kit... That is the question. '77 Z, sbc350, TH350

"Built a ram air system in front of the radiator enclosing it from the front grill to the radiator." This does include the airdam as well. If the air makes it to the grill (upper or lower) it had no choice but to go through the radiator. My next test will be without the bumper. On a side note I did a test on the highway without the hood. It took a little longer to heat up but still did anyway. I then removed my ram air box which exposed the top of the radiator to open air. It ran a few degrees cooler but not much. I've pretty much decided that I have a high pressure area in my engine compartment but I haven't figured out how to overcome it yet.

It's been over a year since my v8 swap and it still overheats on the highway. The changes I've made since the last time I posted are as follows: 3 row radiator- '69 camaro spec (can't remember if I had that or not yet) High flow water pump (don't remember if I had that on before or not) I cut hood vents right above the belt area which is where the radiator fan tends to blow. Built a ram air system in front of the radiator enclosing it from the front grill to the radiator. Added the stock pan from the bottom of the radiator to the crossmember. Last week changed my heads to Dart heads, new set of headers, put in a comp cams 260 cam. (previously had a crane, wanted to try a diffeent cam for other reasons) My car runs about 10 degrees cooler with the above mods but I cannot run on the highway unless my fan is on still. The car runs at about 210 at 70mph, no a/c, 85-89 degree weather. (soon to be 100 degree)

I performed a test yesterday evening. If I sit in my car and rev the engine @ about 3000 rpms with the hood open the car heats up just like on the highway. I'm beginning to think it's not an airflow problem and possibly a water flow problem. I installed a high-flow thermostat last night and the temp runs about 10 degrees cooler than it was under the same conditions. I may go ahead and try a higher flow water pump.

The car has always run hot on the highway since the v8 converison. I never had trouble with the inline-6 turbo setup. I even had an NPR intercooler in front of everything with the old setup. Ignition is a crane HI-6, I'm running a q-jet, previously had a holley. My timing is roughly 15 initial, 38 mec, 45 vacuum. I haven't altered any stock body panels yet except I've always had an aftermarket air dam on the front. The stock pan is on between the airdam and radiator but I've never had the pan between the radiator and front crossmember. My friend and I have talked about cutting some holes in the engine compartment to help air leave but we are still undecided where it would be most beneficial. We are leaning towards exhausting the engine compartment in the front wheel wells. Alot of air pressure is present around the firewall. With the electric fan you can actually feel the air blowing out of the hood vents from the driver seat at idle. Also, with the inspection lids removed you feel the same air pressure. Yes, the fan is working in the correct direction. Now that I do have my one leak fixed I'll be able to tell if Im losing water through a headgasket as long as I can keep my overflow from overflowing.

Yes, we added a spring in the lower hose.

Everything is new. I've only been driving the car for a couple of months since the conversion. Keep the ideas coming I'm bound to have missed something..

Turbo 350 tranny 2.87 diff. gear

yes I have the high power Ford fan. But not from a Taurus. I have one from a Thunderbird and one from a Mark 8 or whatever that car is. The fan fits the radiator like a glove. It actually looks like it was made for it. I bought two since they were so cheap. I also have an air dam and the original pan that sits in front of the radiator. With the Ford fan I can feel the air being pulled from as far as the bumper. I could never feel the belt fan pull that hard. My friend and I have considered airflow problems out of the engine compartment since my auto tranny fills up the tunnel but there is no easy way to test that. I have thought about a possible headgasket issue. Unfortunately I couldn't tell from a possible loss of water because it would get so hot it would blow out the overflow bottle. I have no driveability problems either.

My 350 conversion runs hot on the highway only. I started with a belt driven fan and the JTR radiator. Now I use a Ford fan with a 3-row copper and brass radiator, The only difference between the two setups is the copper and brass cools down quicker when I get off the highway. When I'm on the highway above 50mph the temp shoots up to 200-220 always. It doesn't cool down unless I get off the highway. I've tried driving with my hood propped open and my inspection lids removed with no change. Has anyone else experienced this symptom? 77 280, 350, auto tranny, vette diff.

There is very little difference between a turbo cam and non-turbo. Even then it depends on which cams are being compared. They have different specs thru the years. Low compression could be a result of mismatched head and piston. Are you running flatops or dished? The p79 and p90 yield normal compression with flat tops. You put them on a motor with dished pistons and you get turbo engine compression which is lower. A bad valve adjustment also yields low compression. If you advance your cam a couple of notches you could gain even more compression.

What intake manifold are you using?