Rollins240z

I searched and need some help changing my speedometer gear. 280z 5 speed. 300zx turbo clsd 3.7 diff So I bought an 18 tooth “blue” speedo gear to match the ratio of my diff for an accurate speedometer reading. I went to change it out and install new O rings and pulled out a purple 21 tooth gear. The teeth part of the 21 teeth purple gear is larger in diameter than the blue 18 tooth gear I’m trying to swap out. I did some research and my understanding is that the 20-23 teeth speedo gears use a different housing for the correct angle of the larger sized tooth gear offset. Here is the link http://www.classiczcars.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=1652 The 18 tooth gear shaft fits my housing perfectly, the only difference is the number of teeth and the diameter of the teeth. Do I need a different housing for my 18 tooth gear or am I ok? Z is not running so I can’t test it yet. I also read somewhere that the housing can be turned slightly to accommodate the smaller gear teeth size.

I'm going to keep moving forward with my build and swap the bent strut at a later date. You guys Rock, thanks again!

Part #'s for the strut tubes 54303 E4128 54302 E4128

Confirmed s30 strut tubes. I measured the top inside spindle flange to the strut tube and I have a 3/16 difference. The left side is 15/16 and the right is 1 1/8" . I have welded in camber plates. As much as I want to ignore this, I didn't realize that it makes as much of 1" impact at the top. Having one side of my camber plates maxed out kinda eliminates the reason for having them in the first place. Crap!! Last night I ordered 2 angle meters from eBay. I haven't test fitted brakes on again yet but I did a while back and don't recall anything funky. I guess the next step is to start comparing other people's struts and eliminate the bad guy. Thank you everyone for the advice!

Thanks Pete! Ok just swapped hubs with same results. No visible damaged at tube/spindle, I sandblasted and powder coated these myself and did not notice any damage at that time either. The shocks slid into the tubes ok. Used a straight and could not see any visible bend. I'll try to find an angle finder and try that. Am I overreacting or is 1/4" difference a big enough deal to be concerned about? Thanks, Ryan

Hi all. Finally bolting on all drivetrain after a ground up restoration. I have a 1/4" difference between the top of my front brake rotors to the strut housings. Below are some pics to clarify the measurement location. Is this common on 240z? Will this affect my alignment ( I do have camber plates). If it is a bent strut housing how can I tell which one is bent? I did remove my Hubs and re-checked bearings/races. This car has not been driven in 20+ years. 1972 240z with Arizona z car hubs/rotors. Thanks!!

I have a brand new never installed MS-II 3.0 Setup. pm me your email and I will send you a bunch of pictures. Ryan

Make sure you don't use black primer. Primer is not a sealant and your car will eventually rust from the inside out. A product called "hot rod black" or similar is a single stage urethane paint and will achieve the flat black look you want. Just my 2 cents.

If I wasnt 6'4" --- The chopping the roof would be sweet !!! LOL

If you email modernmotorsports they will send you a pdf write up w/ pictures that do an awesome job of walking you thru the steps. You will need a small bearing puller and a snap-ring remover tool. Good luck.

IMO, The only way to go is welding. take sheet metal, cut it, shape it, then mig weld it. Be very careful that you take your time when welding. You can easily warp the metal if you get the area to HOT because it is so thin. Grind down the welds a little, and then use filler/bondo to smooth things out. Make sure to block out the body work and try to finish your body work w/ 180grit. I would wait about a week or so after primer before painting to allow for body work shrinkage, so sand scratches and waves dont show thru the paint. Anyways -- good luck, this is the way to go if you want it to last and look good.

Aeromotive has a great line of pumps & regulators. I have the A1000, cost about $300, little bit more expensive than the holley, I love it.

Wire brush attachment to drill is the best method, and yes it is very slow. I have found no easy way, undercoating is a pain in the a**. They do sell an air tool that works well if you have a big enough compressor. They use it at body shops called an "eraser wheel" to remove sticky tape and decals, you can put a wire brush attachment on it for undercoating. Anyways, good luck

I manage a big Shop in Northern California -- 1 1/2 North of Sacramento We are not cheap but we guarantee paint for life, you will not be dissapointed. Ask for Ryan Collins --- Concours Elite Collision Center, Chico CA 2267 Esplanade, Chico CA 95926 530-891-0234

I agree w/ teamnissan, just trying to repair one single rock chip or a door ding on a candy/3-stage paint job is near impossible. Too many variable are involved (air pressure, temp, spray distance, coats, toners) to execute an exact color match. It would sure look pretty tho. RC