whyrualive
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Posts posted by whyrualive
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These are not the same. As Jon pointed out, the early boxes do not have interchangable countershaft gears. Changing the mainshaft gears (with a fixed countershaft) is not a good idea as proper tooth mesh is vital for strength as well as noise reduction. That said, the gearboxes you mentioned are not the same dimensionally. Even very early, early and late S30/S31 5-speeds are incompatable with some internal components. The bellhousings are different (early bellhousing can be mounted to KA box with some work as the link provided will indicate). The shiter is in a different location too. Some gears can be interchanged from year to year. An example is the reverse idler gear in an 83 box which has 22 teeth. There is no replacement and Nissan offers a 21 tooth as a substitute. It does fit but there tends to be excessive noise for gear lash. The solution is to get a countershaft reverse gear from a 89 KA box and swap it in at the same time. The KA box uses the 21 tooth reverse idler gear so it is a perfect match. I learned this trying a variety of gears options to eliminate that noise. It only gets more confusing as the conversation goes on. If you go into www.carfiche.com and look at the a S30 transmission vs a 240SX transmission and you'll see subtle differences and part number changes. What exactly are you looking to do anyway?
I'm building a 240z with an 83zxt engine. With mods, I want to produce around 350hp. My tranny goal is to have a strong / reliable transmission that can accomodate a short-shifter. So what is the right year 240sx that I should get the tranny from. I have access to two 89 240sx's now.
I was under the impression that I needed to take the FS5W71C from an 89-96 240sx. Once removed, I needed to have the bell housing modified and a new bearing installed. After that I thought it was a done deal. If I go this route, do I need the reverse idler gear?
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Nevermind. I tapped it again and it came out. Now here is the real question. Should I buy the full rebuild kit or the partial one?
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I hit it lightly with a resin hammer. Nothing happened. Then I looked inside where the journal bearing goes and there is a second snap ring. Is that the one I ignore and just tap out the shaft?
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OK. The vice and hammer worked well. Now, I'm trying to figure out how to separate the shaft with the turbine on it from the center bearing section. Attached are pictures of where I am now. I really appreciate your help.
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Olderthanme: Thanks for the information. I updated the list. Which fuel pump and how much do they go for?
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135 mph s130 speedos bring good money
I'll add them. Any particular year(s)?
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Yes dashes are good to get. They are just a pain to pull out of a car that is on blocks.
While you are looking around...
What is some OTHER stuff that sells?
Turbo stuff generally sells great on Ebay.
fuel injectors(!!)
fuel pumps?
cylinder heads
wiring harnesses
differentials
In general I try to grab everything that I can that looks valuable and in good condition. Emblems usually cost like $1.00 and can sell for $10-$15.
Just load up on emblems...lol
What year injectors sell well? Any special options required?
which fuel pumps? zxt?
which wiring harnesses?
which emblems?
Thanks!
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Ihatejoefitz - That thought never occurred to me. I hope I'm not stealing anyone's thunder. I figured the more parts that are saved keeps the cost down for all of us. Thanks for the N42 and bumper ends. I updated the list.
Datsun 40146: Any feedback from your customer's on the durability of the dash? Also, how long does it take you to do this method?
More feedback is appreciated...
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Every time I see a Z being crushed at the local Pull and Save, I wonder how much money we could make if we simply removed, cleaned and sold the right parts. I've been watching Craigslist and eBay for the past couple of months and here is the list of things that seem to sell relatively easily along with the average price (results may vary). Please add your thoughts so we can all make some money to pay for the next mod! I'll update the list as we people add items.
***** 70-73 Datsun 240z *****
- Tail Lights: $75-100
- Tail Light Panel Set: $75
- Bumpers: $300-400
- Front Grill: $25
- Wheels: $100 - $400 (polished)
- SU Carbs: $100 - $175
- Mikuni Carbs: $600
- Weber Carbs: $1800
- Steering Wheel: $100
- Dash: $500 (no cracks)
- Speedo 135 MPH: $25
- Door Panels: $400 (clean)
- Fuse Box: $50 (clean)
- Head E31/E88: $50 (clean)
- Emblems: $Varies
***** 75-76 Datsun 280z ****
- Head N42: $100
- Emblems: $Varies
***** 75-78 Datsun 280z ****
- Certain Wheels: $100 - $400 (polished)
- R200 Mustache Bar: $50 (clean)
+ Get curved transverse link behind diff
- Hood: $50 (clean / dentless)
- Head N42: $100
- Bumper ends: $75-100
- Emblems: $Varies
***** 79-81 Datsun 280zx *****
- Certain Wheels: $100 - $400 (polished)
- Brake Fluid Reservoir: ?
- Electronic Distributor: $40
- Head P90: $50
- Taillights: $150 (clean)
- Electronic Distributor: $40
- Transmission (5-speed): $350 (painted)
- Transmission (5-speed): $600 (rebuilt)
- Door Panels: $75 each
- Emblems: $Varies
***** 82-83 Datsun 280zxt *****
- ECU: $50
- Valve Cover: $15 (clean)
- Throttle Body: $50 (clean)
- Intake Manifold: $50 (painted)
- Turbo: $75
- Turbo w/Manifold: $150 (working)
- Exhaust Manifold: $75 (painted)
- Exhaust Manifold: $250 (coated)
- J-Pipe: $25 (clean)
- R200 Diff: ?
- CV Half Shafts: ?
***** 84-89 Nissan 300zx *****
- FS5W71C Manual Transmission
***** 87-89 Nissan 300zxt *****
- R200 CLSD: $300
- R200 CV Axles: $150
- Turbo: $200
***** 88 Nissan 300zxt SS (White) *****
- R200 VLSD: $700 (painted)
- Get CV axles: ?
***** 89-96 Nissan 240sx *****
- FS5W71C Manual Transmission: ?
***** Mid-Late 80's Subaru XT Turbo *****
- R160 CLSD: $400-500 Clean
***** 87-92 Toyota Supra Turbo *****
- Fuel Injectors(440cc): $100
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Cool. Thanks for the information. I'll run with it.
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I changed the plugs, rotor, and cap. No change - maybe it got worse. I purchased the carb tune-up kit from ZTherapy and will let you know if that works.
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Now that is enlightening. So if I want decent 60' times and good cornering, then which differential? Thanks for the insight!
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Are all these tranny's the same? Is one better than the other?
FS5W71C:
- 86 to 88 200sx
- 89 to 96 240sx
- 84 to 89 300zx (non-turbo only)
- 87 to 89 Pathfinder (4-cyl only)
- 87 to 89 Van
Is Troy Armish Racing in Freemont, California (510-252-1001) the only company that can make the changes? Someone told me there was someone in Las Vegas or Arizona. Anyone know?
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OK. So why is the 88 300ZX VLSD so special? Is it really better than any other diff or is it that it is just so rare?
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about taking the bolts out... there isnt enough room to get a socket on, and a regular opened end wrench will strip the head off the bolt. i had a few of the bolts get stuck on me. i sprayed the hell out of them with release agent and then let it sit for a while. after that i used a tubing wrench. it wont slip off the bolt and you can get it in the tight spots. you can try hitting the wrench with a hammer. it might work and it might bust the bolt head. put the turbo in a vice and maybe try a small cheater pipe on the wrench. i will eventually give. hopefully it dosent bust the bolt. you'll be in a world of hurt then. hope that helped some. it worked for me.
The bolts came off with a good bit of effort, but my issue was with the separation of the turbine from the center bearing once the bolts were loose. Your note is completely true though! Thanks
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Did you clapm it in a vise and tap it with a hammer ?I would try some heat on it. If it's propane it will take a while. A torch would be better.
I burnt the living $#!+ out of my hand
after heating the exhaust / turbine section. I quit after that. I'll give it another shot. Thanks,
Guy
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My turbo center bearing section is stuck to the exhaust and I can't get it apart. I took the six bolts out as far as I could, but it was still stuck. Any suggestions?
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High HC can mean it is running too lean.
When I had to smog test my 70 I found the tune that returned the lowest emmissions was also the tune that made it run the best. If your car is in reasonably good shape you shouldn't have any problem passing smog. The requirements on these old cars isn't that tough.
Whatever you do save the reciepts for the parts you put on. There is a dollar limit on what you have to spend before they give you an exemption. My guess is the price of the carbs will be enough to give you the expemption.
But I wouldn't give up there. If your car is relatively stock and isn't passing smog then it isn't running right.
You inability to idle suggests a vacuum leak to me. As bad as it sounds you might have a disconnected or broken vacuum hose. That could also be causing the high emmisions.
While this is frustrating and will cost a few bucks, I want the car purring like a kitten. Right now it is stressful to drive it and that isn't good.
I think you might be right about the vacuum leak. While I'm at the store, I'm going to pick up some hose and replace them.
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I appreciate the advise. I'm going to take the advise and get the carb rebuild kit, change the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, adjust the valves and give it a try. If that doesn't work, I'll upgrade to an electronic ignition. If that doesn't work, I'll expedite my L28ET upgrade and try again.
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My 72 240z went down in flames during the emission test. The first problem I had was getting the RPM's below 1350. When the results came back, the CO2 was off the chart 9.99% and the HC were 1241 (range 750-1000). Then on the way back, it died everytime I took load off the engine (i.e. stoplights) unless I kept the RPM's at 3000. Ahhhh!
I suppose that I need to tune / rebuild the carbs, but what else do you suggest?
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I think I mixed up my wires on the horn relay. Can someone please look at their horn relay and tell me which wire (green red, green..) goes to each prong on the relay. The relay is labeled HBS.
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Any thoughts on this?
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Why do my wipers come on when my hazard switch is turned on in my 72 240z?
I replaced the dash and put the original wiring harness, switches, etc back in. When I tried the other electrical components, I had problems as well:
1. Brake lights don't work
2. Lights only work every few times I turn the combo switch to on
3. Wiper motor doesn't work with combo switch
I used photoshop to create a color electrical diagram and it doesn't seem there is any connection other than the combo switch, but then why wouldn't my brakes lights work?
Please help.
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Wouldn't mind the whole 83. Not sure how to get it here?
Remember that these cars have usually been in an accident (or stolen and recovered), so it might not be straight. The 83 has been on the lot for a while 'waiting for the title'. As far as shipping goes though, there are a lot of companies that ship, but that might cost more than the car!
after heating the exhaust / turbine section. I quit after that. I'll give it another shot. 
Make some MONEY at the local Pull & Save!!!
in Non Tech Board
Posted
Thanks. I'm going to give it a try!