Rob

Hi Mike. I wish I had your fire breathing ZR-1 eating for breakfast 383 motor with 292 duration at .550 lift, at sea level no less. Then I too could relate to how easy it is to get 4th gear chirp. Sigh. Well, Danno and I took Hi-Po Silver down to the dragstrip last night and had a good time tearing down the track and getting THIRD gear scratch, not to mention 1st gear smoke. This was at estimated 5300 ft with the ZZ4 350, t-56 and 3.7 open diff. Ran a 13.95 at 98 and a 13.99 at 99.5, pretty respectable for a street car at this altitude. By the way, anyone know how to correct drag times to sea level? Concerning highway driving, when I had my vacuum secondary 600 CFM holley it would pull at 1500 just fine. I would never nail the throttle while lugged down so low though. Now that I have a 650 double pumper, it's not too happy to be below 1750 rpms or so. But I have a lot of tuning to do yet to get that double pumper dialed in. Possibly some carb adjustments will help your situation. Your cam specs seem pretty radical (gatorback shredding)which could affect your low rpm driveability as well. My advice: drive faster! ha ha. Rob [This message has been edited by Rob (edited August 03, 2000).]

This is probably a dumb question, but are the subframe connectors the rectangular pieces welded under the seat area inside the cockpit of Pete's ride? Thanks!

Thanks a ton for all the replies. I will not be getting a Demon. I'm a sucker for great looking stuff but not this time! Just replied to your email John. Wow what a generous guy! I am thinking that there's no reason that a double pumper won't be an upgrade, so maybe its not required to trouble you so much. BTW, let me know when you need that alignment tool. I have a hoist too if you need that! I have looked at and drooled over the 4150 pro. However, they have no choke. I like being able to fire up my Z any time of the year. The air density is highest in the Winter after all. A guy in a rod shop told me you don't need a choke with a 4 corner idle system. Is this true? I'm thinking that the only way to get away with having no choke is to set the idle extremely rich. It's my understanding that rich mixtures are the reason most FI motors go much further between rebuilds than carbureted motors. Once again, any inputs on this will be appreciated. Have a great weekend.

Does anyone run a Speed Demon Carburetor, and are there any problems with them? Are they worth the extra cash? I need to switch from my side hung float bowls to center hung, and am thinking about just getting a new carb with the bowls I need and mechanical secondaries. Currently I'm running a Holley 1850 600 CFM vac secondary carb. My biggest problem is cutting out on sweeping left turns during autocross events. Pretty sure it's due to the side hung bowls. I'm thinking a 650 double pumper or Speed Demon "twin squirter" may be a nice upgrade from my current set-up. I've got a 350 with 10:1, aluminum 1.94 intake heads and a t-56. Any comments on the topic would be appreciated. Thanks!!!

With your problem only at idle, I would first try raising the idle speed to get more fan speed. If the tranny cooler is in the radiator, I would add a aftermarket cooler and route the fluid exclusively to that to reduce the load on the radiator. If still no improvement, I'd go to the biggest baddest electric fan I could find, such as the black max or the perma-cool which pulls over 1000 CFM. At idle, a very good electric fan will pull more air than a mechanical fan. Good luck. I know overheating problems can be frustrating. One more thought.. If your shroud did not help that's surprising. Maybe you need to reduce the clearance between the fan and the shroud.

I had a temperature sensitive vibration problem, similar to what you describe, and I replaced the mushy stock Chevy tranny mount with a Energy Suspension brand mount from Summit. It's polyurethane with a feature that keeps the poly under a preload at all times. It did a great job on my vibration problem. It was $21. Worth a try, I would say. Also, I have my diff front mount tied down with cable, wrapped as tight as I could get it. Good luck! Rob

Mike and Speed: I have the ZZ4 Chevy 350 crate motor with angle plug heads. I used the Hedman tight tubes with good success. The only gripe is that when changing plugs I had to loosen the header from the head to get them all out. This was not a lot of work. I use 90 degree connectors on the wires. My mounting configuration is the JTR kit minus the spacers under the front crossmember, non-HEI distributor 1/2 to 3/4" from firewall. If you would like me to take any measurements for you, let me know. I think you will like them.

Hi Myron. You mention that you mounted it as far out on the pedal as possible. This statement makes it sound as if you are working with the wrong end of the throttle lever. (the side your foot touches) Wrong is probably too strong of a word, but anyway, its not what I did, and I don't have the problem. I used the end up high under the dash. You must cut the end off a little and bend the rod above the pivot about an inch, per JTR. This should give you about the right amount of pull. Slight adjustments can be made with the adjustable stop on the floor. Hope this helps.