[FS5W71B return spring]

Oh... so it is not broken, it is by design? I guess I'll just keep missing third on the track, hehe.

[FS5W71B return spring]

Ohh, here's the parts diagram, showing what I'm talking about:

 

 

 

The highlighted part 32852 is the one I tried replacing.

[FS5W71B return spring]

If it is the same as a 280ZX box then there are no self centering springs as such, the later version of that box which had the six bolt plate on top for the shifter did have those springs, one each side. Workshop manual should show the arrangement.

 

Well, I think it's the same as the 280ZX box that doesn't have the bolted plate on top.

 

The service manual shows just one spring. I verified that if I take that spring out the shifter does not return to center from any gears, and when replaced, will return to center from 5/R, but not 1/2.

 

I do not see a second spring in the manual, or looking at the installed transmission. This is baffling to me.

[Clutch adjustment]

I was getting a clutch slip after getting a new clutch and a slave cylinder until I adjusted the pedal in my 200sx.

 

I still get the 'won't disengage' though, probably needs more adjusting (there are two bits to adjust on the pedal).

[FS5W71B return spring]

I've got a FS5W71B transmission in a 200sx (same transmission as in the non-turbo 280z).

 

The problem I'm having is that the shifter doesn't return to center when pushed left (towards 1/2). It does return to center if pushed right (towards 5/R).

 

I replaced the "spring return", and the replacement was about 1-2mm longer, but did not improve the situation.

 

Does anyone know what might cause this kind of problem?

[Bleeding Brakes, How Much Fluid?]

Yeah, typically when it leaks between the MC and the BB it leaks into the BB and you end up with brake fluid in the vacuum line and intake.

 

Should I try to clean out the booster to get the fluid out?

[Bleeding Brakes, How Much Fluid?]

Are you sure it is leaking and you didn't just spill some fluid?

 

No, I'm not sure, but I don't think I spilled nearly that much fluid. And the cylinder itself is relatively dry, but the junction between the booster and the cylinder is not.

[Bleeding Brakes, How Much Fluid?]

I guess theres a leak! I see fluid trailing down the brake booster where the master cylinder connects to it. A new master cylinder will fix this, yes?

 

Also, someone told me I should bleed with the cap off the master so it doesn't pull air through gaskets... is this true?

 

Thanks everyone for the help so far, the tip about not opening the bleeders too much helped a lot!

 

- Chris

[Bleeding Brakes, How Much Fluid?]

I use speed bleeders as these make this job much quicker and easier. That said, if you're using the conventional bleed screws that is fine. Use a tight fitting hose long enough the sit in a collection bottle with 2" inches of brake fluid already in there. This will aid in determining if the air is bled and helps reduce air being drawn back into the caliper/wheel cylinder. Tighten everything down and pump the brakes. If there is a leak you should find it weeping at one or more connections. Never let the MC go empty once you've started the process. Lastly, if you haven't bled the MC properly then all else is wasted effort.

 

Yeah, I guess if there is air in the MC, then its going to just fill the lines till I get it all out, oops.

 

I'm using this thing to bleed:

 

Powerbuilt Brake Bleeder Master Kit

 

For bleeding of all types of automotive hydraulic cylinders by one person

Features durable plastic bottle with magnetic clamp, tapered fittings that fit both bleed screws and master cylinder fittings, and 3 pieces of vinyl hose.

 

 

I thought it had a check valve of some sort so that it wouldn't let air back in through the bleeder screw, but that might be incorrect.

 

Thanks for the help. I'll be doubly sure to not loosen the bleeder too much when attempting again tonight.

[Bleeding Brakes, How Much Fluid?]

Did the MC resiviors go dry? If so, you need to bleed the MC first before bleeding the lines. If not, check for fittings that might be a little loose letting air into the lines.

 

I used a pump to pump the fluid out of the MC... the stuff that was in there is likely 20 years old, really nasty with little floaty bits in it.

 

My hose was pretty big, so I don't think I let the air get down in to the lines, but maybe it got trapped in the MC somewhere.

 

I'm gonna check and seal my fittings with teflon and start over with the MC.

 

Thanks

[Bleeding Brakes, How Much Fluid?]

So.. for the past two months, my rear control arms have been off the car, and the brake lines were just sort of hanging out, disconnected. This week, the brake lines were re-connected, and the suspension reassembled.

 

My friend and I are using one of those 'one man' bleeder kits to remove the air that was introduced by disassembling everything. We got the air out of the rear calipers (took a little over 1/2 liter of brake fluid), but now we've moved to the front and while bleeding the right front alone, we've already gone through 1/2 liter of brake fluid and large air bubbles are still coming out. Does this seem excessive? How much should I go through before I become concerned that there is a problem (leak i guess?).

 

Note that this is not exactly a Z, but a Nissan s12, but I'm assuming that most of the advice will carry over.

 

- Chris