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Empedocles99

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About Empedocles99

  • Birthday 03/01/1977

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  1. Oh... so it is not broken, it is by design? I guess I'll just keep missing third on the track, hehe.
  2. Ohh, here's the parts diagram, showing what I'm talking about: The highlighted part 32852 is the one I tried replacing.
  3. Well, I think it's the same as the 280ZX box that doesn't have the bolted plate on top. The service manual shows just one spring. I verified that if I take that spring out the shifter does not return to center from any gears, and when replaced, will return to center from 5/R, but not 1/2. I do not see a second spring in the manual, or looking at the installed transmission. This is baffling to me.
  4. I was getting a clutch slip after getting a new clutch and a slave cylinder until I adjusted the pedal in my 200sx. I still get the 'won't disengage' though, probably needs more adjusting (there are two bits to adjust on the pedal).
  5. I've got a FS5W71B transmission in a 200sx (same transmission as in the non-turbo 280z). The problem I'm having is that the shifter doesn't return to center when pushed left (towards 1/2). It does return to center if pushed right (towards 5/R). I replaced the "spring return", and the replacement was about 1-2mm longer, but did not improve the situation. Does anyone know what might cause this kind of problem?
  6. Should I try to clean out the booster to get the fluid out?
  7. No, I'm not sure, but I don't think I spilled nearly that much fluid. And the cylinder itself is relatively dry, but the junction between the booster and the cylinder is not.
  8. I guess theres a leak! I see fluid trailing down the brake booster where the master cylinder connects to it. A new master cylinder will fix this, yes? Also, someone told me I should bleed with the cap off the master so it doesn't pull air through gaskets... is this true? Thanks everyone for the help so far, the tip about not opening the bleeders too much helped a lot! - Chris
  9. Yeah, I guess if there is air in the MC, then its going to just fill the lines till I get it all out, oops. I'm using this thing to bleed: Powerbuilt Brake Bleeder Master Kit For bleeding of all types of automotive hydraulic cylinders by one person Features durable plastic bottle with magnetic clamp, tapered fittings that fit both bleed screws and master cylinder fittings, and 3 pieces of vinyl hose. I thought it had a check valve of some sort so that it wouldn't let air back in through the bleeder screw, but that might be incorrect. Thanks for the help. I'll be doubly sure to not loosen the bleeder too much when attempting again tonight.
  10. I used a pump to pump the fluid out of the MC... the stuff that was in there is likely 20 years old, really nasty with little floaty bits in it. My hose was pretty big, so I don't think I let the air get down in to the lines, but maybe it got trapped in the MC somewhere. I'm gonna check and seal my fittings with teflon and start over with the MC. Thanks
  11. So.. for the past two months, my rear control arms have been off the car, and the brake lines were just sort of hanging out, disconnected. This week, the brake lines were re-connected, and the suspension reassembled. My friend and I are using one of those 'one man' bleeder kits to remove the air that was introduced by disassembling everything. We got the air out of the rear calipers (took a little over 1/2 liter of brake fluid), but now we've moved to the front and while bleeding the right front alone, we've already gone through 1/2 liter of brake fluid and large air bubbles are still coming out. Does this seem excessive? How much should I go through before I become concerned that there is a problem (leak i guess?). Note that this is not exactly a Z, but a Nissan s12, but I'm assuming that most of the advice will carry over. - Chris
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