Teekass
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Posts posted by Teekass
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Just got my fuel tank back from Moyers (http://www.gas-tank.com) today and it really turned out nice. They did a whole list of things for me including:
1. Welded Brad's 240Z sump,
2. Deleted the factory return and feed lines and subbed an AN fitting,
3. Welded additional baffles inside the tank,
4. Repositioned the drain plug,
5. Reconditioned the tank inside and out.
If anyone else is considering getting their tank redone, this is the way to go. $350 for everything and comes with a lifetime warranty against rusting. Jim is the guy to talk with - nice guy and fairly knowledgable about Z's as well. They received the tank and had it back to me within 10 days!
Anyways, pics are worth a thousand words so:
Now to mount the pump, plumb the lines and get this thing running!
Bryan
Has anyone had this done lately? Was wondering about a current price since this post is 3 years old.
Thanks,
Chris
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a popular mail order web site (climb that mountain's peak)
Cheers -- Gary
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whiskey-tango-foxtrot!?! I never realized that the postbit here doesnt display my age, even though I try to always check the checkbox that shows my age...
Dude, I'm only 26... thing is, all of those years have been spent in S30 Z-cars. (okay, there were 2 280ZXs and a couple of Z31s too.. but they don't count
) SO, I am kinda sentimentally attached to certain bits of the car. The dim green lighting, surging with the RPMs is one of those things.. the older style typeface on the gauges (pre-77) is another.. I am not your top-not "HybridZ" material in every sense, heh...On a side note, I rather prefer for everyone's age to post in their little header there on the side of our posts (thats what the "postbit" is) because it kind of gives something of a litmus test on their opinions.. Age doesn't ALWAYS equate to knowledge, but I am more willing to give weight to the opinions of a 40 year old than a 20 year old, everything else being equal.
I'm off to double check that I didnt leave a checkbox unchecked.
I knew you'd get a kick out of my age crack:ass:....wait, not that kind of crack!
I really had no idea how old you were. I'm 37, but new to s30's. I've done a few sbc engine swaps in other body styles, but the Z is by far my favorite.
As far as the "HybridZ material in every sense," I'm a little strange myself.....I put a sbc in a '77, but in some aspects (interior, console, etc.) I like a clean factory look....wierd
!I'll sign off this way.....you know this one?
alpha-mike-foxtrot
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personally, I kinda like the feel of old school incandescent illumination. Then again, I prefer the older typeface on my gauges, too.. So basically I guess I am saying that I think KTM was 100% wrong in what he did
BUT, It was a good read, and it allowed me to finally decide AGAINST wanting to even think about this.
(oh, and KTM, I hope you pick up on the humor involved in me saying you were "wrong")
Hey Daeron, I thought you were just saying that you're old
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I have a 2 1/2" Flowmaster (2 in 2 out) that turns down in front of the rear crossmember. The muffler is barely lower than the frame rail, so clearance is great.
It's pretty loud inside the car though, but it's NOT my daily driver.
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Nope.
One caveat - If anything else is using the thermo switch, then it will also be activated by the manual switch.
The fan is the only accessory on this circuit....good point though, not sure I would have thought of that!
Without meaning to, you also answered my next question. You let me know that I don't need a diode in this case, so I was trying to think of when I Would need to use diodes. If I had another accessory on this circuit that I wanted to be acitviated only by the thermo switch (or only by the toggle switch), I could see where a diode would allow this.
Thanks for the reply.
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I'm installing an electric fan, and want to be able to manually turn on the fan (via a toggle switch) in addition to the thermo switch that comes with it. My question is do I need to put diodes between the switches and the fan in the event that both switches are on at the same time?
Thank alot,
Chris
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Very Nice!
Did you use a pre-made frame rail kit (Competition Engineering, etc.) or custom made? I've been looking at the Competition Engineering ones.....
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I used a Stinger Maxi-Fuse block.
http://www.cardomain.com/item/STISFPD4MAXPT
It also made it easy to get current for the relay circuit breakers.
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Wow, I've seen those in Summit's catalog and the picture doesn't do them justice....they look way better in the car
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Yes, nice car!
What kind of seats are those?
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I forgot to mention that at an idle or any constant rpm, the timing mark jumps... ( using a timing light ) It advances or retards irratically by about 3 degrees... Does that come into play? Will it affect my proformance???
3 degrees of timing change shouldn't affect your engine as much as you're describing.
How much advace are you running at idle, and total?
Have you tried disconnecting the vacuum advance, rechecking the timing, then take it for a run without the vacuum advance hooked up? Maybe the vacuum advance is doing crazy things when you put a load on the engine.
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so.. what do you think of the 327 swap, see alot of talk about the 350s and 383s, this 327 really screams.JT
I think any swap is cool....especially V8's.
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Did you test your stock fuel sender to make sure that it delivers a linear signal to the gauge? Not that Im saying the Autometer gauge isnt at fault -- they havent been the greatest quality in my experience.
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Well Greg, you're experience was right. It seems the Autometer fuel gauge isn't working correctly. I just got my sending unit rebuilt, and it's exactly 73 and 10 ohms. At half throw of the float, it's 35 ohms......I guess the fuel gauge should be around 42 ohms, so thats pretty close. 1/4 and 3/4 is pretty close to what it should be also. I hooked it up and tested it, and the fuel gauge did that same thing it did before (doesn't move off E until way late, then goes up to F really quickly as the arm approaches the full up position.
I should have tested the fuel gauge with resistors before having my sending unit rebuilt. A couple of tests with 10 and 22 ohm resistors quickly told me the fuel gauge was jacked up
. Oh well, live and learn....at least it's still under warranty. -
Hey Nealio, If you're looking to buy a new distributor I can vouch for the ones this person sells http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEVY-V8-PROCOMP-HEI-DISTRIBUTOR-COIL-HIGH-PERFORMANCE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33690QQihZ017QQitemZ270144422112 . I bought one a couple months ago, and have turned it 6,000 rpm (no more til I get new valve springs) without a hickup. I'm sure there are better ones out there, but so far mine works great.......and I thought the price was right. I've only put around 20 miles on it though, so I can't say anything about it's longevity.
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With the engine running, make sure you're getting at least +12volts at the distributor. HEI's can operate poorly when they don't get enough current?
Are the spark plugs in good shape?
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i was looking on this site http://www.transmissioncenter.net/speedometer_calibration_______va.htm and they have a 90* adapter but for $88 i can go without a speedometer for a while.
88 bucks, ouch! Is there a factory application of them?....that you could find in a junk yard?
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I guess i need to work the gauge intead of the sender. a resistor or something...
Thats beyond the extent of my electrical knowledge
. I've read posts by Pop N Wood and others who talked about formulas to get the sending unit ohms closer to what the gauge needed.....I'll try to dig them up.Does your gauge manufacturer make a 73-10 ohm fuel gauge? I can't recommend you get another gauge just yet though because mine hasn't worked correctly, but if rebuilding the sending unit fixes my problem then getting another fuel gauge may be easier for you than doing the resistor thing. My gauge worked correctly at empty and full, it just didn't work well in between the two. I should have it back the first of next week, and I'll post my findings.
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I don't know anything about the adapters.....the post I made is pretty much all I know on the subject, LOL. I'm sure the guys at Speedometer World can answer your question though. Also, if you tell them what color your stripped out gear was, I think they can tell you how many teeth it was so you can get your speedo reading correctly again.
Glad I could help, even though it wasn't much.
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This picture is from a 700R4, but it's close enough to a TH350 to explain it.
The inner part of the speedometer cable is square....you know, the part that you turned with the drill. It goes into a square piece of plastic in the transmission (where the white arrow is).....this square piece is the long end of the Driven gear (the purple thing in the picture below), and it can "round-out" inside. When this happens, it can no longer turn the speedometer cable. This is normally what happens when a speedometer cable binds, as the gear keeps spinning, but the speedometer cable doesn't turn.
What I would do is replace the Housing and Driven gear assembly. It's very easy to replace. All you do is remove that one bolt you see (to the right of the speedo gear housing in top picture), remove the plate under it, and pull the housing out....might have to pry it a bit with a screwdriver. The reason I would replace the Housing also (as opposed to only replacing the gear), is they're cheap and they come with a new O-ring.
I get all my speedometer stuff from these guys http://www.transmissioncenter.net/speedometer_calibration_______va.htm .
The 3 items to get are:
1 - A Driven gear with the same number of teeth as whats in your transmission now. Part#68X.
2 - A new Housing (also called a Bullet). Part #66XX
3 - A new Housing Retainer. Part#68R
I bet this would fix your problem.
A less likely possibility is that your gears are stripped. If so, hopefully it's the Driven gear that's damaged, not the Drive gear (the Drive gear is the green one mounted on the output shaft in the top picture), because to replace it you have to remove the tail housing from the transmission....It's not that big of a deal, there are just 4 bolts holding the tail housing on, but it does require more work. Oh yeah, and while you have the tail housing off, replace the rear seal. Hopefully, this isn't your case, so when you pull out your speedometer gear housing, look inside the transmission and see if your Drive gear looks ok.
If it's damaged, it will be hard to determine how many teeth are on it from just looking inside the little hole that the gear housing came out of. In that case, I would call the guys at the link above, and after answering a few questions (rear gear ratio, and tire size) they will tell you what Drive and Driven gears you need:
Then buy:
1 - The 3 items from the picture above.
2 - 2 or 3 (because you might break a few figuring out how to get it on) Drive gear clips. TH350 5/16" is all it says on the web site (no part#).
3 - Drive gear. Part#68X2
Good Luck!
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I hope YOUR not to fimiliar with a TCAS. lol. how long ago did you fly for Midwest? I dont see too many of them, just one every once in a while. Ive been here for about a year and a half and i love it. not too busy, but it can get pretty hecktic especially when all the overland MOAs go hot and take all our airspace away. Where does Southwest fly out of?..VPS?
Yeah, no kidding about the TCAS. In 2 1/2 years at Southwest, I've only gotten 2 TCAS RA's. It's pretty scary when the airplane yells "CLIMB CLIMB!" or "DESCEND DESCEND!" and you don't see the other airplane. I'm sure you know what I'm talking about with those idiots flying VFR through your active MOA's.
I'll bet your job does get hectic when the MOA's go hot......thunderstorms.......IFR traffic wanting deviations......fighter doing their thing.....
. Have a cold one on me , I don't see how you do it.I flew for Air Midwest from June 99 to Jan 05, so it looks like I just barely missed you. They quit flying in Florida in Jan 05.
Southest flies to 63 cities, but the closest to PFN are MCO, TPA, JAX, BHM, JAN and MSY.
What year Z do you have, and what have you done to it? It looks very clean on your Avatar.
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I have an early 280Z tank in my 71 240. The 280 sender has three wires, one of which I believe is the pressure sensor [part of the smog stuff]. Other than the different wire plug they appear to be identical in appearance and size. Both mount from the side and are sealed to the tank witha neoprene "o" ring.
In this photo the 280 is the one with the plastic electrical connection.
g
I think the third wire is for the Low Fuel warning light.
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Im an air traffic controller. Its my first base.. yeah its nothing special, nice beaches though. good luck finding a Z, i went up to GA to get mine.
Air Traffic Controller, that's awesome....guess you know what my screen name means then (TCAS). Cool, maybe I've talked to you on VHF freq before? I use to fly for Air Midwest (US Airways Express) throughout the panhandle, and talked to Tyndall 4 days a week.....flying around Whiskey 470, Carabelle and Echo MOA's.... CLRRK, CRESS, TERES, HEVVN intersections, and all that stuff over there. I fly for Southwest Airlines now, so when I get in that area we're already talking to the high sector
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I live in Panama City, which is 1 hour east of Eglin AFB, and just got my V8Z running. Send me a PM when you get over.
) SO, I am kinda sentimentally attached to certain bits of the car. The dim green lighting, surging with the RPMs is one of those things.. the older style typeface on the gauges (pre-77) is another.. I am not your top-not "HybridZ" material in every sense, heh...
!
....LOL.
!
. Oh well, live and learn....at least it's still under warranty.
. I've read posts by Pop N Wood and others who talked about formulas to get the sending unit ohms closer to what the gauge needed.....I'll try to dig them up.
. Have a cold one on me 
, I don't see how you do it.
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Pretty Pumped! Just got my fuel tank back - sumped and ready to go!
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
Thanks, I'd appreciate that.
I'm trying to decide which way to go. I like the factory look, but worried about the price. The post from 3 years ago said $500.00......that's do-able. I'm just worried how much he's gone up since then.