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cooks240z

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Posts posted by cooks240z

  1. Hi, all so here is the question that i hope to have answered and since I know that other hybrid-zer's have done this swap. I have a 89sx se running, a 82 p-79 zx engine/transmission and a 78 n47 engine/transmission-this one is currently in a 78 2+2 (no rear half of car). my main goal is street-ablity all the wok will be done by me and I am on a serious budget 2000-3000, and the reason that I need to replace the current motor is cylinder #4 is leaking oil and probably will not last that long. wiring and steel mod's are not an issue.hope to get some good responses.

     

    Thanks Brandon.

    :icon14:

  2. It's not your imagination. It could be a rougher engagement on the stick shift because you are "turning/nudging" the whole drivetrain to engage the synchro teeth if the clutch is engaged. Normally with your foot on the clutch, the stick will engage smoother, even when standing still.

     

    I am going to say possible broken/bent clutch fork, assuming the hydraulics are working correctly. The T/O bearing would have, or probably would have given you a warning before total failure. A bent or broken fork can fail silently.

     

    good point looks like the transmission needs to be dropped :-(

    but its not to bad.

  3. sounds like the throw out bearing has gone out in the clutch " The slave "does its thing" and actuates the lever " which pushes the throw out bearing in to the clutch and releases it drop the trans and replace the bearing but it could also be that the fly wheel bolts have come loose which has happened to me before and i dropped the trans 3 times and changed the entire clutch before i noticed that the bolts had worked loose for having a bad harmonic balancer . check that first before you replace the bearing.

  4. Very interesting. I never would have looked at something like that as a possibility. 480 is a bit much but there are ways of stepping it down, so I don't see any reason why not. 60hz isn't required, in fact, something like 400hz might be even better. Any idea of the amps one of those can put out?

     

    250-500 amps depends on the size, the weight is the same but they have longer shafts for different uses.

  5. I was just wondering if you could use 480v 3 phase a/c power to charge your setup? if so u can get a heliocopter generator (alternator) that at full speed 8000 rpm produces 400hz but if you powered it down to 1200 rpm you would have 480v 3 phase 60 hz for a quick charge ?

    just throwing ideas out there. it weighs 48 lbs and is the size of a r-200 pumpkin not the goose neck. ?

  6. "Then, not only did you get a great deal but you have a one of a kind color:ugg:"

    lol most of the time a mis-tint is too much met or the wrong color metalic in the paint not a different color . The most common is charcoal which is a hard color to get right. unless of course we want to spend 40 for a gal of duplicolor or 25-30 for rustoleum but i am just adding a different route and I have persolnally had 3 cars that are mis-tints you would never know.

  7. 147 in my 83 280zx n/a mild cam and suspension according to the ticket in 1999 COPS are were so nice to not arrest me.:-D speed-o was 85 for a while, but did have to join the navy to avoid problems :icon52:

    142 in my 84 zx n/a which was the same speed that the motor died while racing a viper on I-10, in 2001. coming home from navy school.:icon11:

    and now I just cruise to morosso in west palm beach to let out any frustration. tickets suck and cost almost $6000 with the sr-22 insurance i had to have. DO Not drive like a moron.

  8. hello all on a side note if you have a finish-masters or a car paint store (call a local paint shop and ask where they get their paint ) go in and ask for mis-tints or rejects $20 gallon for emron or other dupont paint. The stores have a few screw-ups color matching paint which means a $200 gal costs $20. Just adding a idea.

  9. hum, the closest thing that is currently out there is a garmin gvn 52 or off brand (IE: Pyle,dual.) but these only work if you have a video screen. personally I am in the process of removing the speedo and installing a gps receiver in the original location. so to answer your question yes you can but it is far more expensive to get a separate gps system. sorry.

  10. hum, I just wanted to share my 2cts, I prefer cascade vb2 on all my stereo installs. the showdown said this

    "The Cascade VB2 is a completely different composition than the other mats. It held up very well, but I only included it in this showdown out of curiosity. Cascade has contacted me and will be sending samples of their butyl damping mat for future testing"

    I have installed this material when i sell a car audio installs, they also have a good Waterproof Dampening Spray these are just what I have found to work and be affordable and the spray has high heat rejection.( put it on my sisters firewall which has a stainless racing header 1 1/2" away and she no longer feels the heat from it) once again this is just my 2 cents worth and I hope that if you are going to buy a product be sure that you have a good idea that it is made for your application. (also my in car decible level with the spray behind all doors and under the carpet on the top went down 17.3 db and my system increased 9.7 db). Thanks.....

  11. I would have to say that most (other) sites not only have poor admin but also would rather spout off at the mouth than sit back and listen. The info on this site is nothing less than mind boggling as I have lurked in the shadows and tried to pick up tidbits of info that I can use :icon29: instead if having a thousand posts and no knowledge . This is the only site that has the WANT AND KNOW HOW to do what is being accomplished. THANK YOU HYBRIDZ :cheers:

  12. This centrifugal casting process consists of pouring the molten iron into a rotating mold. The impurities are spun to the outer surface which is then machined off. All liner surfaces are fully machined to ensure that only quality material remains.

     

    Cylinder liners for turbocharged engines are induction hardened and tempered on the inner surface to reduce wear. Liners for naturally aspirated engines do not require this additional hardening operation but still provide long life.

     

    The cylinder bore is machined and plateau-honed to produce a crosshatch pattern which retains oil. This aids break-in of piston ring surfaces and promotes precise limits, minimizing oil consumption and eliminating ring scuffing. Automated measuring equipment precisely measures diameter and roundness through the liner bore so that liners can be matched to pistons for best performance.

     

    The matching of liners and pistons for service in many four and six-cylinder late model engines is only one of the elements which is engineered into the cylinder block cylinder liner and piston assemblies in order to promote greater engine durability. Through extensive laboratory testing optimum liner machining tolerances have been developed.

    I pulled this from my bookmarks. cheers..

  13. A good read is http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question522.htm and http://auto.howstuffworks.com/transmission2.htm which explain a lot but I had the same problem and half of the problem was the throw out bearing and the other half was the fluid in the transmission, if you have 2-4 hours (1/2 - 2 hours if experienced) and some car ramps or jack stands prefer to use car ramps + a floor jack you can pull the transmission and inspect the clutch, the throw out bearing and change the fluid. if you do you might as well replace the throw out bearing around 10-30 dollars for new one. just my 2 cents.

  14. To quote http://www.markwilliams.com/braketech.aspx

    "Mounting the master cylinder to a frame rail or roll bar is recommended to ensure a solid mount. With the correct master cylinder in place, the pedal ratio must be great enough to produce 1200 psi system pressure under severe braking conditions. A pedal ratio versus line pressure calculator is available below. We recommend using a pressure Gage connected to the system to verify the maximum available pressure before running the car. If the desired pressure can not be easily attained the pedal ratio must be increased until the minimum pressure of 1000 psi is easily reached."

     

    However, like I said I was referring to the fuel line pressures when I said any car pressure and any temp..sorry for the confusion (still 1600+ is better than 1200 psi under sever conditions). which is what that site says but I do not want to pretend to know what the actual psi is since I do not.

  15. The allowable internal pressure for copper tube is based on the formula used in the ASME Code for Pressure Piping (ASME B31):

     

    formula1.gif

     

    Because of copper's superior corrosion resistance, the B31 Code permits C to equal O, and the formula becomes:

     

    formula2.gif

     

    The value of S in the formula is the maximum allowable stress (ASME B31) for continuous long-term service of the tube material. It is only a small fraction of copper's ultimate tensile strength or of the burst strength of copper tube and has been confirmed to be safe by years of service experience and testing. The allowable stress value depends on the service temperature and on the temper of the tube, drawn or annealed

    .26

    • drawn temper - also called "hard" or "rigid"
    • annealed temper - also called "soft" or "flexible

    Rated Internal Working Pressure for Copper Tube: ACR*

    (Air Conditioning and Refrigeration Field Service)

     

    Part 1: 1/8 - 1-5/8 inches Nominal

    or

    standard

    size,

    in inchesCoils, Annealed S=

    6000 psi

    100FS=

    5100 psi

    150FS=

    4900 psi

    200FS=

    4800 psi

    250FS=

    4700 psi

    300FS=

    4000 psi

    350FS=

    3000 psi

    400F1/

    Nominal

    or

    standard

    size,

    in inchesAnnealedS=

    6000 psi

    100FS=

    5100 psi

    150FS=

    4900 psi

    200FS=

    4800 psi

    250FS=

    4700 psi

    300FS=

    4000 psi

    350FS=

    3000 psi

    400F3

    Nominal

    or

    standard

    size,

    in inchesDrawnS=

    10,300 psi

    100FS=

    10,300 psi

    150FS=

    10,300 psi

    200FS=

    10,300 psi

    250FS=

    10,000 psi

    300FS=

    9,700 psi

    350FS=

    9,400 psi

    400F3

     

     

     

    *Based on maximum allowable stress in tension (psi) for the indicated temperatures (°F).

    **When brazing or welding is used to join drawn tube, the corresponding annealed rating must be used.

    just some numbers to crunch, however I was only refering to fuel line pressure but a good read is http://www.markwilliams.com/braketech.aspx

    As the fluid becomes contaminated with moisture, its boiling temperature drops. Only one percent moisture can lower the boiling point of some DOT 3 fluids down to 369° F. Two percent water can push the boiling point down to 320° F, and three percent can drag it all the way down to 293° F - which is getting dangerously close to the minimum DOT requirements.

    3/8.035-SS stainless steel tubing

    O.D.: 3/8

    Wall Thickness: 0.035

    I.D.: 0.305

    Max Working Pressure (6:1 SF): 2333 psi100F

    1/2.049-SS stainless steel tubing

    O.D.: 1/2

    Wall Thickness: 0.049

    I.D.: 0.402

    Max Working Pressure (6:1 SF): 2450 psi100F

  16. Since I can get refrigeration copper (soft drawn 50ft length any size OD not home depot CRAP copper ,) for very cheep. I would use copper benefits are easy to bend, easy to cut, easy to flare and will never rust or rot out. and compared to SS it is cheaper even if you had to pay full price for the rolls of copper and fittings. Best thing is it can handle any psi and heat level on any car. this of course is My opinion.

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