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About Turbo6.0

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  1. I really like this bender! I looked at many different benders before deciding on the JD2 and I couldn't be happier. This unit has some unique features, it's easy to upgrade and the die selection is HUGE. I also have the "Beast" notcher from JD2 which is probably one of the best fabrication tools that I have ever purchased!
  2. Started the rear section of the frame!
  3. I cut out the rusted rocker panels and installed a new/modified set from Z-car depot. I filled the inside of the new rocker panel with 18 gauge sheet metal to allow it to sit flush against the new 1.5” x 3” rectangular frame rails. I finally bought a tube bender! It's a JD squared model 32. Now that the perimeter of the frame was in place I started on the trans tunnel using 1.5” DOM tubing. I tied the trans tunnel to the perimeter rails with more 1.5” DOM. The front and rear tubes fit to the underside of the frame rails and will also act as jack points. The center tubes are bent so that the end is flush with the bottom of the frame rails.
  4. I started building the front frame rails with 2.5 x 2.5 square tube. I decided to build a new front crossmember to fit the 240SX control arms and a mustang steering rack. I will need to build a new bracket for the alternator to clear the steering rack but everything else seems to fit nicely and the motor sits almost completely behind the front crossmember! I also picked up a set of drop spindles.
  5. That was my reasoning as well and I feel no remorse! Killer build you got going there! Skyline motor? I have not weighed them but they are on the heavy side. I will have to find a scale and post up the weight.
  6. Thanks for the link I will admit that I kind of felt bad cutting up a such a solid car but I got over that quickly! I did save all of the good metal to sell or to use on a future project.
  7. I built an adjustable fixture to hold the 240SX subframe at ride height. Tires are Nitto NT05 275/40 front and 315/35 rear. For wheels I went with a set of the American Racing VN477 with reverse barrels and custom offset. 17 x 9.5 up front and 17 x 11 in the rear. The current plan is to build a set of 911 style flares out of steel and weld them or out of aluminum and rivet them in place.
  8. I started with a 1973 240z for the body, LS1 & T56 out of a 2002 Camaro, 240sx (S14) front and rear suspension and will be building a tube chassis to tie it all together. Here is the car the day I got it. Relatively rust free and very complete. I decided to build a chassis table out of an I-beam and 3 x 3 square tube. I will also be adding casters to the table at some point. After a substantial amount of cutting on the car I mounted it to the table with some simple pinch weld clamps.
  9. Turbo6.0


    Picture Test
  10. Going with Z32 300ZX TT brakes front and rear. I order the wheels through http://www.customwheelsexpress.com/custom-wheels-by-brand-american-racing-vintage-pc-american-racing-vn477-polished-custom-wheels-rims-p-2392.html The wheels shipped 2 weeks after I placed the order.
  11. I'm not sure but they are definitely heavier than my old rota RBR 17 x 9.5 wheels. I will weigh them when I get a chance.
  12. Finally pulled the trigger on these wheels and I couldn't be happier! Front: 17 x 9.5 -13mm offset (reverse barrel) Rear: 17 x 11 -6mm offset (reverse barrel) Tires are Nitto NT05 275/40/17 up front and 315/35/17 in the rear. This car is also getting a full frame with S14 suspension front and rear!
  13. Turbo6.0

    Arttu's 240Z Never Ready

    Did you use the factory control arm mounting point on the front crossmember? Do you have any pictures of the front control arm when the car is on the ground?
  14. Thanks, that sort of helped and sort of confused me too. Still not exactly sure what the difference is. Edit: Found this picture. Apparently the top is a "full reverse" barrel and the bottom is a "standard" or "stepped" lip. More brake clearance with the stepped lip.