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Posts posted by Chaparral2f
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Thank you for the info. It's great to be able to come to this sight and actually get the information you need. CheeZ, I love this place!
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If the machine shop ever gets my engine back top me, I plan to put it in my '84 zx. it should doouble the hp and give me about 400 lbs of torque which should make it run pretty well. I think that I'm going to use a th350, full manual valve body and perhaps no converter. My oldest friend says it can be done, and I tend to trust his judgement. He's been building automatics since 1959. I'm using a Jag irs and probably pinto or MII front suspension. Pictures to follow as the project takes shape.
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I am putting together a 355 small block, and I want to use Kinser injection. From your post about running alky, I saw that you have experience with this type of injection. Can they can be made streetable. I am using ported L98 heads, and KB flat top pistons. The compresion ratio is @10.59/1. I don't have a cam yet, but was considering a 420-442 Lift 204-214 Duration, with a Vertex external coil Magneto, for about 350hp and 410 lb torque. But the cam choice isn't definate, so any advice will be a great help. Will I be able to get the injection to idle at any kind of reasonable rpm, and how much of a pita will it be to keep them tuned.
Thanx, Joe
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No one seems to have mentioned running a 700r4 with a full manual valve body. I've been giving this a bit of thought , and even though the ratios are rather wide, I may go this way.
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I wanted to run Webers on my 350, but found that the manifold and carbs would cost slightly more than the entire budget for a small third world country . that's why I am planning Hilborn stack injection later this summer. If I could afford a Weber setup, I'd let them come up through the hood. If ya got it flaunt it.
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this ad was in thge local Nickel. I don't know how to scan it in to post:bonk: so I just copied it!
"1970 Datsun 240Z SCCA race car.500hp aluminum sbc,Mincie M21 4 speed, 57 Olds differential,
4 link Weaver dry sump. tToo much to list. needs service. $12000. Call for details.
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Once again, thanks for the info . I'm polishing the rods now and will have them stress relieved and resized hopefully by the end of next week. Now all I have to do is get the cam, and finish the porting. Thanks Joe
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My engine is coming together, but I have a question on con rods. My machinist says mine are "lightweight" stock rods. I brought them home to polish before they are stress relieved and resized. The rods are 5.7" with a pressed in wrist pin. They're from a chevy truck two bolt main, low compression. I am aiming for about 350 hp @5000, 420lb torque @3500. This is a pretty mild engine, but I need to know if the rods will hold up.Has anyone had any experience with them.
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Thanks Mudge, I really appreciate the info. Actually, the main reason for considering titaniumn was that the price was right. (eight intake, and eight exhaust for $200) but the cost of new seats, makes the price nnot worth the trouble. that's why I keep coming here fro the straight dope!
Joe
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I'm porting my set of L98 heads. I know that they wimll take 2.00/1.56 valves. But I have found a good deal on a set of 2.020/1.60 Titanium valves.
I just don't know if they will fit the heads without major seat work. Has anyone had any experience with this? Also, what is your opinion of titanium valves? the set I have found will cost me less than manley sever duty steel valves. that's why I wonder what you think.
Joe
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I am starting on the heads for my 350, and I have a question. I am using a Comp 292 Magnum cam, Pete Jackson gear drive, Victor jr and 750 Holly DP. The ignition is a French Grimes Vertex mag. I have a set of L98 alulminum heads, that are going in to be ported. Now here is my question:The current valves are 1.94/1.50. All things equeal, will increasing the valve sizes to 2.00/1.56 make enough difference in the power to justify the extra cost. (My wife has this silly idea that we need to have groceries, and pay the rent. ) i always get good information here, so any help you can give me will be appreciated.
thanx, Joe
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Nice car! The pics on your sight are great. Did you have any problems with clearance between the steering and exhaust?
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Actually, the engine I am putting together is stolen from the "John Lingenfelter On Modifying Small-block Chevy Engines" book. (Page 155 to be exact). I wasn't worried so much about clearances as I was about compression ratios with stock pistons. AS to ging to a 280H cam, I think it would cost me about 40hp and 20lb torque. kthis may not sound like much, but I am going to be hauling around a z31 that is heavier than an early Z. I may go for a bigger crank, But my beer budget is getting down to the foam on the sice of the glass. Check out this link, there is some really outragous classifieds.
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This is IMO the best sight on the Net! I want @400 hp/390lb-ft torque:I know this thing is gonna have a really choppy idle, but that's OK with me.
Comp Cam Magnum 292 Hyd (244 duration,.501 lift,110*lobe seperation.)
Pete Jackson gear drive.
Victor jr intake.
750 Holley double pumper.(No webers this millinium)
1-3/4" headers.
Vertex Magneto
Any Sugesstions?
Thanx, Joe
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I have a 350 truck engine,(#14010207)with stock dished pistons, and 76cc heads (#462624) If I change the heads to corvette aluminum, (#10088113)
with 58cc chambers how much my compression ratio will raise? Will the stock dish work with these heads? Thanks
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Those are truly things of beauty. I'll take the downdrafts. Now, as Tony Saprano would say, "Who is it that I gotta whack?"
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Since I have more time than money, I thought I'd see what thoughts you might have about what factors would have to be considered in building a log manifold to put webers on a 350? I am pretty good at fabrication, but the science isn't my strong suit.
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After much soul searching, I picked up a 350 that I found in the local paper. I know nothing about it except it is an '82-'84 with two bolt mains. Didn''t hear it run, but it looked clean inside. Anyhow, it came with a TH 350. I don't think I could go wrong for a hunert an' fifty bucks:D . I should pick it up tomorrow.
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Wow! Grumpy, that list sure gives you something to think about. I may be going back to the earlier planning stage. Thanx
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Tee Zee,(oh most magnificent Guru) I'm from Penna, but I tell everyone that I'm from Oregon!! I never knew much about Goats, When I was young I had a great job, and was into Mopar. ('66 Charger with Street Hemi) first new car I ever owned. Oh well. Dodge has long been replaced with Wife, Kids, Grandkids, Great-grandkids, Mortgage, and a Peterbilt. Haven't had a fast car in centuries. But I do have this ratty old 300zx. Now you know what I'm doing here.
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I'm not real sure, but if my faulty memory serves me right, back in the fifties the Olds J2 ran tripower, and the linkage was progressive. The one I had worked very well for the time. Of course that was when dynosaurs ruled the earth, and most of you weren't born. But like I said, My memory may be faulty.
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I sure hope you get some pictures up soon, I am just starting my '84 z31. Right now I'm doing suspension. I can't start on the engine until it is licenced for the next couple of years. (Don't ask, it has to do with smog laws) Good luck finding a five speed.
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I see that no one has strong opinions about the Jag suspension . I really appreciate the feedback. The Jag does have Inboard brakes, that is one of the main attractions. I like the idea of less unsprung weight, and the fact that the brakes act directly on the chasis instead of the suspension. I still haven't made up my so called mind, but you all have given me a lot more to consider. Thanx
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I have found a good deal on a complete jag rear end (diff, brakes, axels, springs) from an xj6. I would like to put it under my z31 but the track on the jag is 59 inches, and the 300zx is 55 inch. Do I have to narrow the jag, or can I just handle the difference in width by flaring the rear fenders? I don't know much about suspension, so I need all the help I can get.
V-8 Z31 swap????
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
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Steve, I remember the old "clutchflytes" I always thought they were kind of cool. I have a 3000 rpm 8inch converter, but the cam isn't hairy enough to need it. I've just been kicking the idea of going direct drive to the pump. After all, if I ever get this thing done, I'll have to come up with some other project. Believe me, this is still in the bench racing stage.