Justinp551

What are the options of using a L26 block for overbore opportunities? I know the L28’s go up to 89mm but what is the reasonable overbore range? I have a L26 bottom end and looking to build up a high comp 2.8 or 3.1 build. Also with the same stroke as a l28 are the cranks relatively the same for a 26 and 28?

I’m working in getting a early 260 back on the road and looking to clean up the engine compartment and sort out the seatbelt lock out relays. I’ve read/searched a bunch of posts here and in classic z forum on relay bypass’ and removals and have a few different manuals on the car and still not 100% of where and what all the components looks like. No labels on any of these anymore. Does anyone have a map or overview of where and what all the relays are in the car? I’ve seen one outlining all relays and components for a 280 fuel injection system and it was very helpful.

Stirring up a old topic here but... Spirited street driver with eibac springs and tokigo struts on a 2+2. Any benefit of a ST bar set or is the stock bars decent for the 2+2?

So I did a brief search in a few categories on hybridz and didn't exactly find what I was looking for. I had the complete A/C system out of my 75 for engine bay paint and have put everything back in. Now the summer heat in Cali is prompting me to put the A/C on the top of the priority list of things to finish. Here is where it's at. The comp and condenser(radiator thing) had been removed by the PO a few years back. I have gone through it and installed everything accordingly. Everything "looks" fine but I am new to A/C so... My questions are as follows... Does any parts need to be replaced from sitting with normal air passing through them? ie Evaporator, condenser, compressor? I have heard and read somewhere that I need a o-ring kit and switch them out for the new refrigerant. What is the truth on that? The compressor turns over freely(I have 2 of them). Can I assume it is relatively good or what should I be looking for? I can read up on the recharging procedures later but need to know what/how to get the system ready for refrigerant. Any info would help or at least send me a direction and I can go from there. Thanks

Thanks for the input. After sitting on the side of the road again last night, I did some more reading in the efi bible. Found the section on the FI relay. So for a stab in the dark(no pun intended) I reached down and felt for the relay harness and wiggled some stuff down there. To my surprise the damn car fired up and drove for the last 15 miles home trouble free. Thinking maybe it has a bit of corrosion or maybe was a bit loose. Either way I will be giving it more attention in the light and making sure it's clean and tightly connected. Fingers crossed!!

The damn saga continues... so after putting another 400 miles on the car last few days it has been running fine-again. Still questioning whether there is something floating around in my gas tank so yesterday I pulled the tank and did a thorough inspection on it. I used a boroscope and flashlight and had the fuel sender out and was able to look just about everywhere inside the tank. Other than a small bit of rust flakes that came out of the drain, there was nothing that I found. I turned it up side down, on its side, every which way I could to see if something was moving around and it all seemed to check out fine. So I installed a few new vent lines that were cracked while I was at it and made sure everything was correct. Put it all together, ran great and started the 200mile drive back to San Fran. Just a bit above half tank and about 20miles from home the damn gremlins showed up again. Just died like the ignition was turned off. I turned it off and on and it started right back up and ran normal on the freeway for about the next 5 miles. Then it happened again. Had to sit for a few minutes and then ran fine again. Happened about 5-7 more times and finally made it home. I crawled underneath and felt the fuel delivery line to the fuel pump and it didn't seem collapsed. Also popped the fuel cap and didn't hear a vacuum or anything strange. And of course it started right up this morning and got me to work no problem. So what am I left to check? As stated in previous post it seems its a fuel pressure/delivery problem as indicated by falling fuel pressure. When/if a pressure regulator acts up what are its symptoms? Will it just fail black and white or will it sometimes partially fail? Also is there possible a fuel pump relay that is going bad and disconnecting and when it cools or I turn the car off and back on it eventually work for a bit longer?

Ok so the saga continues. After putting the new module in the car has been running great for the last 400 miles or so. And a solid 200 mile continuous. Thought I had my problem solve till two days ago. After a short 20 mile drive it started cutting out again. But now it is more reluctant to just fire up and continue. So I put a pressure gauge on the fuel system ran it into the cab. Seems I am loosing fuel pressure. It drops from normal 35ish down below 15 itfill it finally dies. So I am thinking bad fuel pump. Well I swapped it with another one(it's great having a identical complete parts car) and pressure seemed to be fine. I ohmed both pumps for the hell of it and there was a difference. Don't know if that matters at all. Ran great in 90degree heat for 150 mile then bam! Quit again. What's weird is it doesn't just quit as abruptly as before but starts missing, dying as pressure is dropping then finally dies. WTF! So what am I missing here. Stock l28 stock FI Swapped ecu, coil, ignition module, fuel pump and damper, airflow meter and still having problems. Checked the fuel filter and it was clean. Thinking maybe something is floating around in my tank and plugging up the feed line. Notice it happens around just above half tank. So stumble to the gas station, topped it off and a mile later here I sit. Grrrr!! Could the fuel pressure regulator be failing? I wouldnt think I would get the pressure indications but... I am out of options and almost out of parts to replace.

I have almost 5000miles on my rebuilt l28 and I have been putting valvaline VR1 10-30 in it. Not racing it, mostly freeway commutting to work with the occasional spin to 6500rpm. No issues but I find most shops carry it only in 20-50 and it's hard to find in 10-30. Also I have found it in 10-30 synthetic. I live in California San Fran area so temps re pretty mild. 40-100 degrees is about the range. What are the pros and cons of the 10-30 vs 20-50 vs more expensive synthetic VR1?

Well I swapped another ignition module in and we will see how that works. Had to do a bit of reviewing the wire diagram as my Z is a federal model with dual dist pick ups and seven wires going to the IM verses five for the new one. So far it runs fine but need to take it out for more than a hour and half or so, that's when the old one started quitting. Leon would it be better to run the 79 dizzy vs the HEI module due to removal of the ballast resistor? Or was the HEI option there for a more economical solution? Either way I will run this module for a bit if it works. Thanks everyone for the advice and input.

Update. After nursing it home for 85 miles this is what I can add. It died repeatable for the first 40 miles. I was shutting it off and coasting down as many hills as I could. I did start to notice a small half second hesitation or power loss just before it quit. Now could this be a fuel pump or relay. Here is the weird thing, after the sun went down and air temp dropped a bit it cruised ran perfect at freeway speed for the last 45 miles. Now could a relay be failing or could the air temp sensor in the AFM be causing a problem? I am kicking my self for not swapping the AFM after the first two item swaps. This would have ruled out the complete AFM assembly as a culprit. So with the last two posts... Any one have any suggestions? it cruise

Ok so put 150 more trouble free miles on it at 85mph and itbstrts acting up again. Keeping in in gear and turning the key to acc and back on will restate the engine bit it's duration of running gets shorter and shorter till it won't restart. After a few min of sitting it will fire up and run fine. So first thing I swapped was ecu. The 76 ecu ran the 75 car fine for about five min then started the same symptoms again. After it finally failed to restart on the coast mode I pulled over and swapped the coil. Same thing after about another 5 min slowly fades worse and worse. So I can safely say I dont think it's ecu or coil. On the last failed start up it was almost catching like there was a fuel pressure problem. After 3-4 attempts it finally started up and ran fine for the next mile. So here I sit at Starbucks scratching my head. Fuel pump? Would it failing cause such a sudden quit of the engine? No sputtering or surging just it's like the key is turned off. It almost seems like it could be operating time/heat issue. 3-3.5 hours and it starts getting worse and worse. Thur 3hrs and started acting up. Yesterday put 25 miles on it and ran great. Another 20 or so this morning and great. Now I take off for a seven hour drive and 3-3.5 hours into it starts acting up. Hmmm. Well since I won't make it to Z Nationals this weekend looks like I have time to study up the FI bible. Fml! Haha

Thanks for the suggestions. Could have happened after the long trip and I would have been less ticked about it. Haha. Drove it about 25 miles fri and seemed to drove fine. Must just be mentally messing with me. It is the stock dizzy so that's not a issue I hope. I do have a extra 76 ecu that I will bring along with a extra coil and AFM. Hoping I should have it covered for the trek to LA today. Will a 76 ecu work in a 75 car?

I have completely rebuilt my 280z- drivetrain engine and all. I have put 2200 trouble free miles without any hiccups and today it starting acting up. Stock electronics with a fresh rebuild l28. Driving up a slight hill today after running at 85mph for 2hrs and all of the sudden it was like the key was turned off. I coasted over to the side and hit the starter and it fired right up and ran through the gears fine. It ran for about the next half mile and just quit again. Cranked for one attempt and tried a second crank and started right up again. It did it about 3-4 more times in the next mile or two till my destination. Its not sputtering but with the first crank it will start then die when i hit the gas. Start it again and it will run normal. Everything looks fine and hooked up. The tsp is not wet or shorting out. I am sure if I sort through the millions of posts of engine dying I might find something but I am a bit tired, not in front of a computer and heading to the z meet in LA sat so I dont have much time. I dont think I missed anything. Look forward to the suggestions.

Captain Joe, mine were really close too. Less than pinky. Tap the spring perch with a hammer and flatten it up tight against the spring. That will give you a bit more room. There is prenty of room in the rear where it is not a issue. And I have no issues with the front. I dong know if running spacers with those rims are a good idea in the front. They are quite wide and you might start having fender clearance issues turning into driveways or hitting bumps unless you have fender flares.