Cabanaboy

Excellent. So, I may be in luck. The old man has a used GM crate 350 sitting at his place. Not sure of the condition but it had been in a Chevrolet truck with a Reading body on it. He pulled the motor to use the transmission out of it. Not sure how functional it is, I'll have to ask him but it could be the powerplant, and then all I would need is the transmission and the custom axles.

Question; For Auto-X solo, is there an 'open' class that you can run in? I don't want to build the car to be in a specific class, but I do want to be able to take it to an Auto-X event once a month for some fun. I don't want to build the car and then be disqualified from running it in every class...

Hey Donovan, check your private messages

Looking for a straight rolling chassis. Preferable if it wasn't terribly rusted through at spots, but may consider depending on the rest of the car. A plus would be a running motor. Interior condition does not matter as it will eventually be stripped. Would prefer to keep the core purchase on the lower side, looking from those who want to rid their yard/property of an old Z. I'm not looking for a freshly restored body or anything of that nature, just something that will roll and not fall apart Thanks!

Hmmm, I thought they were supposed to be roughly 2800 lbs. in intact condition? Are the bumpers that heavy? I know they are ugly as sin...

I don't own a Z yet, but I do know some older cars used to have rubber fuel lines that would tarnish if the car was let sitting for a long time. Maybe lines are bad (assuming they are not metal lines). Gargle or air could be an air leak somewhere?

So I picked up Midnight Club LA to do some 280Z Visual modification. Seems to be what I was looking for but not as nice looking graphics wise like say, GT5 or Forza. Oh well, it seems like it will server it's purpose.

EDIT: Actually, was wondering, are there any numbers laying around about how much a 280Z will lose with an easy/basic strip? I mean gut the interior, dorrcards off, sound deadening removed, AC and lines removed, wires and any speakers (if the car has them) etc.? I've searched and found a few 'what to remove' threads and posts, but haven't found any solid numbers. Such as ' I started out with 2788lbs. 280z in stock trim, half a tank of gas. Removed X,Y,Z and now it weighs 2574lbs.' I'm sure there are 30 different variables here. Let's just assume the wheels and tires stay the same, suspension is the same, it's just taking off the non-essentials and losing as much weight as possible without actually replacing anything, just removing items but leave the car in running shape.

Some awesome advice in here! Thanks, and so far from searching through the forums I have found alot of useful info for when I get the Z car. Such as Bad Dog frame rails, putting the fuel cell in the spare tire, Nissan 4x4 brake upgrades, engine swap info, etc... I have plenty of questions that my perusing may not find but is still somewhere, but I am doing my level best to go through the FAQ's and absorb. The Z I found and really want is local to me but unfortunately the guy is not repsonding. Supposedly no rust (atleast visible) but possible frame bent. Hood doesn't latch but it drives straight. I'm keeping an eye out for a 240Z or 280Z. I just love the style, but wish they were 300 lbs. lighter! Posting the CL ad (I hope that's fine with mods) to see if anyone may recognize the car; it's in Philly area: http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/2687562589.html I just can't get a response from them so hoping someone may know the car or even be on here.

Ok, another question while in anticipation of owning my own S30: What's the best way to prevent future rust on parts. Say I find a spot that isn't weak but is starting to rust. I'd clean it up, but is there a suggested paint or product to cover the spot to prevent future rusting? For the underside I'd try to find something durable, like the coating used on the underside of my Subaru. Would basic Rustoleum be fine for rusty spots that see less action like a floorboard (interior side)?

I made it myself!

Yea, like leitsnow said, I just used Google Image Search (GIS I call it) and found the common rust places.

Well one good thing I see on the car ad I am pursuing is that supposedly the car has no rust, I missed that one the first 2 read throughs but when specifically looking for it I found it. Don't know how true that is but if it is true then the car is definitely worth the asking price...I just wish he/she would reply! While this is far down the line (if at all) what is the lightest weight engine swap that would get me around 200-250 HP and nice mid-curve torque? I was thinking the GM 3800 series L67 with the Eaton Supercharger, but I don't know if that would even work since it is designed for a Front wheel drive car. Plus maybe I don't want to deal with all the electronics and emissions crap.

So far looks like the Midnight Club Los Angeles has what I am specifically looking for, but keep the suggestions coming!

Was wondering if anyone knew what games carried the older Z cars such as the 240/260/280Z vehicles. PC or console. Wondering because I would like to be able to visually modify them but I can't find a PC program that is easy (or free) to use to modify paint, wheels, ride height and schemes. I was thinking along the lines of how Need For Speed series usually lets someone modify just about every aspect of the car, but unfortunately they do not carry the Z cars I am interested in. Thanks for any help! LIST: Gran Turismo 4 (240ZG and 280Z-L) Gran Turismo 5 (240ZG and 280Z-L) Forza 3 Forza 4 (z432 '69) Need For Speed: The Run (240ZG) Midnight Club: Los Angeles

So this is what GIS returned for me picture wise: I assume the 3rd pic is with dog rails or new frame rails? May be pic overload, but it looks like these are the most common?

Well I'm still waiting on the owner to get back to me. He did not leave a phone number in the Ad so I emailed him but nothing yet So if there is bad rust on the floor board or the frame rails, is it something that one would be able to grind up and weld in some support? I guess I should google images of the frame rails to get a true understanding. I know the floorboards in older cars are usually cut out and a new piece of metal welded in place. Really, unless it is something that will take monumental amount of work to fix, I don't mind. It'd be good experience and since it's just a project car I won't mind the downtime. I can get metal at cost, and I have the tools and a friend who can weld just about anything. The frame would be the only catch. He said it drives stright BUT the hood won't latch. He did take a picture of the damage to the front left and it doesn't seem too bad. He specifically states the hood doesn;t line up properly with the latch. Is there a way to tell if it is the frame or if it is just structural up at the hood level? I'll try to get a picture.

I figured, especially in the NE where salt is laid down excessively during winter. I'm wondering where I need to be looking. I don't mind a little body rust here and there where some grind and filler will be fine, but I'd like to know weaknesses so the frame doesn't fall apart first time I try to drive it. If I have to weld plating onto the frame for re-inforcement, any idea how thick? It'll be my first time but I have access to welders and material, it's just a matter of doing it the right way.

Hey guys, first post on this forum. I was directed here by quite a few searches on Google so figured I would just join. So, as the title stated, I am looking for a project 240Z/280Z. I've had a thing for their styling and I know about the multitude of engines that get transplanted into the engine bay so it just seems like a real fun and relatively cheap project car. The plan is to make a fun weekend car. Something to flog mercilessly around the local solo Auto-X for experience and the fun of it all. I had a 240SX back in high school and loved the car to death and would love another, but they seem to be overpriced due to the cult-like Drift following and ease of SR20DET swaps. I got the 240SX for $200 and I regret ever getting rid of it, I just didn't have the money at the time to have a fun second car. So the goal for the car is to be a stripped down 'race car'. I have found a local '78 280Z that supposedly runs and is in OK condition for a good price. I'm awaiting the seller response but if it is still available it looks hopeful. It comes with a working engine, transmission (but the clutch master/slave cylinder is bad; has parts for both), good interior. Frame may need straightening as it was in a head-on and restored,but the car drives straight. The hood doesn't latch. Title is clean and in the person's name. So assuming the car is still available and I go down to look at it, what should I look for on the car? I hear alot of talk of rusting on these cars, so where should I look for rust, specifically hazardous rust areas like main frame or strut towers? Any other general advice for Z specific purchases would be greatly appreciated. Hopefully I'll be joining the Z community shortly!