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5 Star Rising

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5 Star Rising last won the day on October 8 2019

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About 5 Star Rising

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  • Birthday 05/01/1978

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    Humboldt County Northern CA Coast

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  1. With rust repairs, body work and paint jobs now exceeding $20k+ these days I decided to restore my early 71 240z my self. It has been a long 5 YEARS!. But I'm finally at the painting stage and doing my first ever paint job at my house and as expected, im running into issues. Welded in new dog panels and did all the body work and primer myself, blocksanded everything straight, glass out, interior is newly painted and cleared along with the engine compartment. Just painted all my panels front and back but I still need to paint the actual car ( roof, quarters and rear). Everything looks great from 3 feet away but the unforeseen problem is that my paint has went bad and my gun has sprayed out tiny pieces of dry paint all over my panels, rather than stopping I decided to keep spraying everything due to a small window I had off work to do this... Then I googled what to do about nibs and found it was better to try to bury everything in clear so I sprayed about 2-3 coats of clear on everything and you can still see and feel the tiny rock like bumps all over. What happened is I opened up the paint back in May to spray the engine compartment and interior and 5 months later used the rest of the paint to paint my panels now it's bad, I have new paint coming from the same supplier which they still charged me for (but I'm working on getting it refunded). Anyway the new paint should be here in a few days to spray the rest of the car I'm starting to rush this alittle because here on the north coast the rain is already coming and temperatures are dropping into the upper 40s and 50s and my window for painting 70+ degrees is closing. My question is, what the hell should I do about my panels? Haha.. Sand them down smooth and reshoot clear? Sand them down to basecoat and reshoot basecoat? Try to sand and polish them. If I sand the new dried clear coat smooth and reclear over the top of it will it leave cloudy sanding scuffs that will show through the new clear? I should also mention I have a few black beard hairs that landed on the first coat of clear and can be seen though the bright white paint. Can I dig those out? Maybe take a tooth pick with basecoat om it and put it over the hair then reclear? Sand it all down to primer and start over with new paint? The nibs are the same color as the paint aside from a few hairs and a bug or 2. I realize maybe I should have stopped, but this is the situation I'm currently in and any paint advice would be appreciated. Btw the panels actually look really good as far as the bright white color and like I said from 3 feet away it looks awesome but these little nibs might drive me crazy later.
  2. I will check. I have a 240z with short 240z collar now. I think the 280s were longer like the zx so maybe that's why you didnt have to change yours.
  3. Have a early 71 240z with a 5 speed 280z transmission. It has all the 240z components inside including the original 240z flywheel, pressure plate, 240z collar, adjustable slave cylinder and 225mm clutch disc. I am upgrading the clutch set up and have purchased a new lightweight Fidanza flywheel, and new 240mm Exedy stage one racing clutch kit that fits a ZX or 280z 2+2. The Fidanza flywheel wheel work with either a 225mm or 240mm clutch. Does anybody know which collar I will need for this particular set up? I would think to just buy the collar that goes with the pressure plate of a ZX or 280z 2+2 but with the Fidanza flywheel being able to fit both a 225mm or 240mm disc I'm not sure if its thinner than stock or something and may require a different collar. Think there is also a turbo ZX collar that is smaller, just want to get it set up right the first time and not have to pull the tranny out again later to change collars. Anyone have this set up and dealt with this issue before?
  4. Hello all. So I have my early 71 240z that I have been working off and on for like 5 years and I had set a goal to have it done by this summer but I have a bunch of variables in my situation. The goal is to take this car to a professional paint shop and have them use their paint booth, professional spray guns, and experience to paint my car as I have never painted a car before and want this one done the right way. Shop time and labor cost is an issue, I want to be able to do as much as possible at home and bring them the car to paint. As stated I have a bunch of variables and I dont want to apply the wrong primers in the wrong orders and mess stuff up and cause problems under the paint later. I have done all the rust repairs already and have sprayed epoxy primer on those bare metal locations. A body repair technician did a side job on my Hood, Doors and Fenders and they came back straight and primered but I'm not sure what primer he used on them. Meanwhile I have the rest of the shell at home in which it still has decent silver paint on it from the last paint job it had from PO, the car was originally blue, I also believe there is some filler under that silver paint but it's all pretty straight and I dont see any cracking. I was going to start sanding it down abit with my DA. I have the hatch that I sprayed with epoxy primer, did some minor body work and then sprayed it with high build polyester primer but have not sanded yet, I also sprayed that high build primer under the hood as the body tech didnt bother the primer that side of the hood which I would like painted. I will be painting the car Safari Gold and have a black fiberglass BRE spoiler that I want the same color as the car and also a maroon color painted fiberglass front valance that I would also like painted the same color as the car.. The engine is out of the car and I have the engine compartment prepped for paint as well. With the shell still having old paint, some parts like dog legs epoxy primered, hood, fenders doors primered as a set with a unknown primer, hatch with high build, fiberglass pieces needing to be prepped, engine compartment sanded down to original blue paint. My question is what products should I use in the situation I'm in and what order do I apply them and how? I thought about sanding down the shell and fiber glass pieces and spraying everything with the half gallon of Polyester High build that I have left and have the shop put color on that, but then i read that you need a sealer and to break down epoxy primer and spray that on right before paint as a sealer. I need to know what products to buy and what order to apply them. I apologize if this post is all over the place but that's how I feel my car is right now haha. Just want to do it right. I built a cool enclosed canopy inside my garage so I could sand and spray primers and not get shit everywhere. I need help with a game plan on how to proceed with this car, I have the drive to do it and can afford the right products just don't have the knowledge on this type of work. Thanks for some info in advance...
  5. So measure the outside diameter of the disk with a tape measure and convert to MM? When finding a clutch I know I would like a stage 1. How ever there are a ton out there, all different brands and they seem to have different variables about each of them, some heavy duty with different weight pressures ect. Anyone have any particular recommendations on a clutch. I'm assuming I have a 280z gear box with 24 spline.
  6. Thank you, I will order a clutch for a 280z. Not too worried about the gearing, seems to be fine and I'm not racing the car.
  7. Hey all. I have a early 71 240z with a 5 speed transmission. I just pulled the engine and transmission out today for the first time since I have owned the car. I want to go through the motor and trans and put a new clutch in it. I have no idea what transmission the PO put in this car. Also I want to order the correct stage 1 clutch kit for the set up I have. Here's a few pics of the transmission , hope there is any way to tell what it is 280z? ZX? Also any recommendations on a good clutch? Thanks
  8. Update: so I got the car running on its own for the first time in 20 years!! At first I plugged all the vacuum hoses which I'm sure helped a little but the car would still not start, it would do the same thing... try to start but never catch. I had adjusted the choke cable before and the choke levers would move a little when pulling the choke cable as far back as possible but the car would still not start. So I got a crazy idea to choke them myself. I put autobody masking tape over both carbs completely and when trying to start, it acted different but still would not start...Then I poked a small hole in each piece of tape on each carb and low and behold she started, it ran rough but it was enough to warm up the car. Then I was able to adjust and balance the carbs with my Air Flow meter. Now it starts every time, but then again I haven't tried to start it when it's cold again yet. But some huge progress was made....There was fiery embers flying out of the engine from all the tree leafs, pine needles and spider webs that had some how got in the motor from sitting 20 years.. I let it burn out the best I could with a garden hose near by just incase.. Tomorrow I will pressure wash the motor again to hopefully get all that debri out. It definitely has a exhaust leak at the manifold and also a coolant leak under the intake somewhere. But SHE RUNS!! , Revs up then idles. Thanks for the input
  9. Thanks, I found that post, but it doesnt seem to go into detail about the carbs that much. More about restoring a 73 back to stock. I'm going to try to plug any vacuum leaks I have. The car also has a loud exhaust leak at the manifold, wonder if I have a bad leak on the intake as well possibly causing a big vacuum leak. Wish I could get this thing running long enough to diagnose what the heck is going on without pulling the motor apart first.
  10. First I know that I should throw these Flat Top carbs in the Garbage Can and get some Round tops but I only want to get this car started enough to move it around in my yard instead of pushing it. 1973 240z with auto trans all original. Hasn't ran in 20 years. Gas tank is cleaned out, new fuel filter, new fuel lines, put a new set of dual points on the distributor, new cap and rotor, new spark plugs and wires. Both site windows of the flat tops show fuel inside 3/4s of the way up.. I CAN GET THE CAR TO RUN ON STARTING FLUID. but it will die out once the fluid is out. Looks to have fuel pumping out of both lines at the carbs. Has factory electric fuel pump AND mechanical pump on this late 73. Blew out fuel lines with compressed air. I have not checked fuel pressure yet or timing. But car runs on starting fluid. Also thought maybe too many vacuum lines are unhooked and dont have vacuum in the carbs. Any advice to get this car to just idle and maybe drive around the yard using the factory components? I should also mention I ADDED a throttle spring in a odd spot as once the gas pedal was pushed in it would not retract, it works well now.
  11. Yeah I'm going to flip this 280z and thought while I have it, I (Could) do the swap, but it sounds like it's not worth the hassle. I dont plan on changing out the original L24 in my 71 only adding triple webbers..Should be fine, and yeah more weight would not help any. I didnt realize I needed to change the mustache bar and all that. I do like the idea of the limited slip from a LSD. But for now think I will just keep the original rear end. Thanks fellas.
  12. I have a early 71 240z that is a little modded. Triple webber carbs, 280z 5 speed tranny, coil overs, toyota upgrade calipers ect, rear Bre spoiler, front air dam, the rest of the car is all stock, these are things I could put back to stock if I ever wanted to do a stock series 1 rebuild. The other day I picked up a 77 280z with 4 speed tranny. I was thinking about swapping the rear end into my 240.. Questions, do I need to keep this series 1 rear end with my car or is it just a standard 240z rear end that I could get later if I ever wanted to go back to 100% stock? Is it worth it to do this swap? I think the R200 is a bit more stout and has a lower gear ratio than the 70-71 rear ends but not much. What is needed to do the swap?, driveline, different axles? Brackets, hoses, straps? Or is it a direct easy swap?. I already re-did my rear brakes on the 240z. I'm sure there is info on here on the swap but thought I would ask about my particular situation. Thanks in advance.
  13. Yeah, if it was a flat panel I think I could get away with bending a offset flange and sliding the panel behind, but because the panel has a moulded grove in it, it makes it almost impossible to flange it with that tool. The best approach might be to place some material behind the new panel like you suggested and the video suggests and butt weld it. I had a body shop guy come to my house and suggest overlapping but it doesn't make much sense to me doing it that way if nothing lines up correctly.
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