280zmn

Thanks for a quick and extremely helpful response! i plan on going bw t5 tranny soon anyway i just want to play with the l28et as soon as possible.

I am planning on buying an l28et out of an automatic car. i want to keep it manual so, so far what i've learn is that there is a spacer on the crank of the automatic l28 et that i could just take off. Then it comes down to the clutch and flywheel.. I need a 225mm flywheel is what I have come up with from searching. So what kind of flywheel is on my 76 280z? and would i have to order and aftermarket clutch? I was hoping i could just plug and play with my tranny but that hope went out the window. The motor is coming with a flywheel that the owner says needs resurfacing but i don't know if it was the one that came out of the automatic. I am going to look a the motor today, and inspect it a little more. thanks for reading and any help is much appreciated!

yeah i skipped out on the deal because it was just to high. But he wanted to swap in a V8. That was his reasoning for selling the motor. I found a donor car, 82 280zx turbo. Owner says It has been sitting for 8 years due to floorboards rotting, but it ran good before that. He said it cranks over with a fresh battery but does not start. He is asking 500 for it. should i take this deal instead and just do a complete motor swap over? My do My head gasket blew and I've been wanting to go turbo so I'm using that as an excuse to do it soon. I'm just afraid the donor car motor is trash, but since it cranks it's not seized. What signs should i look our for when looking at the car?

After hrs of trouble shooting I find out that my cold start valve was causing the wet plugs and my fuel pressure regulator was causing me to run extremely rich. Just documenting this here, just Incase others who search this up run across the same problem. thank you everybody for the help

LOL thank you guys. Now he is telling me the PO built the motor and not him, so he doesn't know much about it. Im gonna stay clear from this. Thanks for all the replies!

The car is kinda far from me so i just asked him more questions.. apparently it's only detonating with the stock turbo system. The car is tuned without the turbo he says. his description "All of it would be there. Everything mentioned. But like I said. Using the turbo is probably not advisable on this engine. I figured a stock turbo set-up, at 7lbs of boost with an intercoooler would be good with the engines 10:1 comp. Now that its on there, I would say not. The whistle is pretty damn cool to hear though. The car runs just fine on 91, providing the turbo does not spool up, then it will start to stumble. I could not get the car to run using the turbo dizzy, ecu and wiring harness. So back in went the n/a stuff. I suppose not having the turbo distributor ability to adjust timing may be having an effect on its running capabilities under boost. Anytime you want to see everything, just say so." at first i thought it was a good deal if it was running right but i guess it is not. Sounds to me like it needs a turbo set up, and since he's running stock this is probably the reason why it's not running right.. what do you guys think?

Owners description ".030" over bore.Never dynoed. It's fun, just not what I was hoping for. Engine was built from scratch, meaning all new stuff put in it. Used a turbo block, 2mm larger pistons. 10:1 compression, Crane cam, 1mm larger intake valves, with 5angle valve job. Even smoothed the inside of the block for faster oil return to the pan. Minor porting to the head. Stock hp was 145, so if I were to guess, maybe somewhere around 180. Since this wasnt enough for me, I added a stock turbo set-up. 100 octane is necessary to avoid detonating. And that still isnt enough to satisfy me. I have an Isuzu intercooler, a type that others have used, but since I wasnt particularly happy with the power, I never took the time to install. This engine probably should not have a turbo on it for longevity. Since I got it running with the turbo on it, I have probably driven it through about 2 tanks of gas. 100 octane is a bit pricey. Right now its been deluted down with 91 and has less than 1/8 tank. I wont need the transmission either. Only mod to it is a Centerforce II clutch. I would imagine $1200 for both engine and trans. I put in about $2500 for the engine. You could have all my other parts too, if you want. Not much of them, but it would include a n/a intake. And, like I said, you can come by anytime and check it out, running, in the car." It's from an 83 280zx turbo. He's asking $1200. Good deal?

Thanks for all the replies guys. I plugged up the CSV fuel line and took it for a drive. It starts up no problem without it so thats not an issue. I'm still getting bad gas mileage and can still smell fuel from my exhaust pipe.. But when I checked my plugs earlier it was not wet with fuel but they seem to be even more fouled up then they use to be before. Even my 1st spark plug which normally does not foul up is now fouled. My AFM looks new. And there is a sticker on it that said refurbished. My fpr looks pretty old so right now that's what Im suspecting it is. Either that or my AFM was not refurbished right.. I am going to leave the car sitting for a little longer to see if it starts getting wet again. Thanks for all the suggestions keep them coming.

Oh an my car is fully stock... For now

I changed the Pcv valve a few days ago just for a piece of mind. That's the only thing I checked for the Pcv system anything else I should be concern about? I've cleaned all my sensors and got the proper reading down by the ecu pins for all my sensors so I don't think it's a sensor problem. I pulled out my cold start valve and crank the engine to see if it was leaking but it wasn't. I even squeezed the fuel line connected to it trying to force fuel out but it didn't so I think my cold start is fine. The only thing I can think of now is my fpr but I don't understand how it could cause all my plugs to be wet after it has been sitting. The plugs are dry after I drive the car but after sitting for a day it becomes wet. That's why I suspect something is leaking but had no luck finding the culprit.

Recent new owner of a 1976 280z that's running super rich.. All my plugs are wet after sitting for a day! Smell of gas in oil also. I checked for leaking cold start and it doesn't seem to be leaking. I checked the injectors about a week ago and couldn't tell if they were bad stuck or leaking (I'm a newb to inspecting injectors) but they all looked fine to me. Didn't see gas leaking out of them that I could tell.. My throttle body has a wall of this liquid substance and smells like gas but feels like something else. I Assume that it's oil and gas mixed since I do not have a catch can. I have terrible gas mIleage and all my sensors and everything checked out good at the pin according to the efi bible. I'm stumped now... Could it just be a coincidence all 6 injectors are leaking? Or is there something else I could check? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Merry Christmas to all! Thank you

Ok thanks for the reply and do you know what's the main difference between l28et and l28e besides the motor or is it all the same.. thanks

Ok hybridz world I'm planning on buying a l28et. The p90 head and f54 block but no turbo with it.I'm planning on turboing it but later. It supposedly has 35k miles. Is it just s straight swap? Can I use the 76 efi sensor harness ecu starter alternator 4 speed tranny dizzy and all that? Or what will I have to change to make the swap work.. And also anything I need to look for when going to see the motor it's already out and everything... Thank you

The temp switch the one with the two wires broke. So does anyone have an extra one bc the part is discontinued and only found in the 75 76 model. Any thoughts or comments

No clue why this posted twice moderator please delete this one