jgautosport
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Posts posted by jgautosport
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Hopefully they get put to good use.
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Looks real good.
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I found this on the fiberglass molds off the ebay page. (zfiberglass.com). Wondering if anybody knows where to get one or if they are still being made by someone else.
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Im comfortable buying from them, bought several things from them, I guess the extra 20 is worth peace of mind.
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Has anyone ever delt with them. Im about to buy an air dam but I havent found any reviews. They are about 20 bucks cheaper than everywhere else I looked. Or if anyone has a good site to purchase one from. Thanks
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I have the exact same problem, I was suspecting my guage was off. I had drained the tank, replaced my pump with a Walbro and put a pre filter before the pump. Not a lot of fuel is going through the see thru filter and my psi is not even really registering. I put 4 gallons in from an entirely empty tank. How many gallons did it take to see if that was the issue. Reason being is I dont want to fill up the tank entirely if the car is gonna be on jackstands for a good while. Oh yea runs, idles, revs perfectly fine too, just no psi. If I remove my vac line from the regulator it jumps to about 5 psi
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Coolers were the main thing I would suggest but you already have those.
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Well I ve been surfin on here for a couple years and never really thought to post up my project. Well Here it Is
This is when I thought I was Done with the engine.
Never took pics of the progress but Just Stock Rebuild
Here is the Before:
The Dreaded Spindle Pin
Rear Set Up: MSA Springs, Tokico Hp's , And Energy Kit Ready to go in
Rear Is Back In.
I made a post a long time ago about my pass wheel not equal to my Driverside wheel as far as being pushed forward. The bushing kit corrected it for me and looks right now.
On To the Front
Heres the Before shot for the front
Here is the After: Tokico Hp's , Springs , Ball and cup TC rod setup, Stainless Lines and 4 piston Calipers
Front is Done
Ran out of stuff to do so deceided to clean up the engine bay
Deceided to do a semi wire tuck
Thats Enough for this post Ill update with Body next. This was not a quick process for me.
Between the engine swap / rebuild, Suspension, Engine Clean up im in it almost 2 years now
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I don't know what caused it, maybe the powdercoating temp weakened it. It was solid when I first mounted it , obviously not so much now. Thanks again
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Something tells me you guys were right.
Thanks, you guys are awesome. I ordered another pulley. Too bad its only a single drive pulley, I don't even know if my a/c works yet it but would be nice to have.
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Well had a chance to check it out at lunch and found that when you rev the engine, (quick blip at throttle body) the damper flexes forward. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction guys , ill post results after I change it out.
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I'm with Mario on this. If timing was actually changing by a full rotation, the car would run audibly different while idling. It would quit running in a short period.
If you were looking for it... match-mark both rear pulley's. They are isolated from each other with vulcanized rubber. If separation has begun, it will show in the match-marks. If you find that this is the case, do not continue to run the engine until you sort it out.
The temperatures powdercoating is normally done at strike me as incompatible with the isolation material.
Thanks for your input guys, ill check those things tomorrow.
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My guess is your crank pulley/damper has come apart.
If I were you I wouldn't drive it at all until you fix that.
Mario
is that something you would be able to see. Bad thing is I had it powdercoated when I was rebuilding my motor, dont know if the powdercoat is sealing anything in.
Also I just noticed my dizzy bracket was powdercoated to, and Im not to sure on the ground wire there if that has anything to do with it. I sanded all the powder coat on all my ground points in the engine, too late to start it and try it (kinda loud)
My cap sparks the hell out of me too when I try to adjust it, on Hondas never happend to me, is it normal?
Thanks
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Hey guys , ive searched and found tons of timing issues but none like mine. I have a 77 280z stock minus headers. The cars starts right up every time, revs fine , runs smooth but this is only set by ear. When I hooked up a timing light you can literally see my crank mark walking around in slow motion for the complete rotation. I cant even get a base mark. any ideas or suggestions?
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What are you looking for $? and how would we do shipment or would you prefer local. Im in Vegas.
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I never really noticed that, but my passengerside is not pushed up as much, maybe I should go ahead and try to change my bushings. So everyones does't center? I have a 78 2+2 also. But its been hit before and just my parts car, so I didnt want to compare suspensions with that.
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Sorry if there is a post on this but I tried searching. On my 78 280z My rear wheel on the driverside is not centered (if your looking from the side) on the wheel arch. It looks almost like its shifted more towards the front of the car, the passenger rear is a little more centered but not perfectly. There is no signs of shifting of the frame or any type of impact on the lower arms. Before I go buy my bushing kit and install my springs and struts is there anything I should be aware of? Is there an adjustment? Wondering if anybody else had run into this.
can't keep fuel flowing to fuel pump from tank
in Fuel Delivery
Posted
I've never had a starvation problem but now that I've read this you got me thinking. My see thru filter in between my tank and pump does not have a Steady flow. It looks like air is just juggling through. My fuel pressures are off but I just thought it was my gauge on my rail. Im interested to see what you find with this. I did the same thing though. Blew out my lines added a walbro and changed my filters, added a adjustablee FPR and I still dont get a steady flow when I look at the see thru filter.