76Datsun280z

If any of you have an original antenna switch like this that fits into the optional blank spot in the center column, I'd be very interested in buying it from you.

Thanks, so the stock clamp for the coil will not work with it?

While I was looking through the MSA catalog, I came across the Crane coils. My 280z is completely stock witht the stock coil. I was curious if something like the Crane PS40 high performance coil would work with my car without any modification and be a bolt on replacement to the original? If it is, would there be any noticable increase in power of the stock coil? Thanks guys. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEIC03/12-4053

Nice lookin' car!

Thanks, I'll probably even put a new 180 degree thermostat in it too as I think it might have a 160. I'm replacing the thermotime switch because it quit a couple weeks ago and is not sending any signal to the cold start valve and I thought I'd replace the head temperature sensor as long as I was going to be in there any way. I bought the parts from Courtesy Nissan. http://www.courtesyparts.com/secondtier_s30.html

I am going to be replacing my head temperature sensor and my thermotime switch and I was curious when I take these out if I am going to loose my coolent? I assume I would since they are in the the t-stat housing, but wanted to confirm that. sorry for dumb question.

If it's been tampered with and is out of adjustment, yes. One way to tell if it has, is the glob of glue on the top left screw holding the black wheel is broken. The contacts inside it could also be corroted which you can clean using that contact cleaner. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/index.html

The pictures look great! Looks to be in great shape!

First make sure, you got the tps set and cleaned so that can be elminated and then if that doesn't solve the problem, you can move onto something else such as the thermotime switch and checking for continuity.

(sorry about my huge signature), I'm trying to figure out how to delete it With an improperly functioning tps, it could be sending to much or to little fuel at the wrong times or could go into "coast" mode where it cuts shuts the fuel off thinking that it's decelerating. You'd definitely notice this if you went over 3000rpm as it gives a huge "jurking" effect, I've had it happen before and it's not fun. This link should help you out too http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm

Most likely, it is out of adjustment or it got corotted with water. Any water on it will get inside and corrode the contacts. To see if it is out of adjustment, pop the cover off. When it is at idle, the center and right contacts should be touching. If not, gently bend them until they are. Have someone hold the throttle just over 1400rpm and lossen the two screws that hold the hold the tps on and rotate the tps so that the middle contacts just break away from each by a hair and then tighten the two screws and put the cover back on. Your tps should be now set. In the case of dirty or corroted contacts, again, pop the cover off and spray the contacts out with contact cleaner and that should solve the problem.

Mine has the same setup, looks pretty cool in my opinion. If you restore it and paint, then they even look better! I think the reason you don't see as many of them is that a lot of people are switching to cold air intakes which eliminates all of that. I would think the injector treatment would help the injectors some if their pretty clogged. I have heard of people buying motorcycle tank do-it-yourself coating kits and using them in automtive tanks, but whether or not how it works for an automotive tank, I don't know. But it may be somthing to look into as a way around the tank boiling. Hope this helps.

Hey there, very cool! Looks like it will make into a great project! Let me first highly highly suggest that you NOT do this as it could and will clog up your injection system causing you a lot more trouble, money and time that you don't necessarily need to spend on it right now. I highly suggest that you drain whatever is left in that tank or better yet have the tank boiled to get rid of all that gunk and rust that's left in the tank. The tank in my '76 was like this and I had it done, was around $200. Any how, I thought I'd through that out before you cause more work for yourself! Take care and have fun with that car!

If any of you have a left side seat recline mechanism cover from the years between '74-78, please let me know as I would be interested! Thanks!

Thanks again guys! There's always small misolanius things that need to be done such as new seat covers, but I'm thinking about putting an Eibach lowering kit on her (1 1/2) to improve the stance and the handling of the car which I think would be a pretty cool. Thanks, here are the links to bigger pictures. http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/2162/01290001ny9.jpg http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/5753/01290002jz6.jpg http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/5149/01290003dq2.jpg http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/2473/01290004ux8.jpg http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/660/01290006iu3.jpg http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/5042/01290007qq0.jpg http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/672/01290008wz4.jpg http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/8597/01290009vh5.jpg http://img172.imageshack.us/img172/7932/01290010sr6.jpg http://img172.imageshack.us/img172/8759/01290011rm7.jpg

Thanks a lot guys!! Hey there, I haven't noticed a ticking sound from the center caps when I brake, must be a different style. If you wouldn't mind posting a picture of your identical twin, I'd more than love to see it! My next big plans for it is to lower it about an inch with some Eibach's to give it that stance that I'm looking for. Thanks again.

I know you guys probably don't know who I am since I haven't posted much on here, but I've never given the chance to show my car here. I just got her back from the paint shop last weekend. It's painted with a Nissan color "silver metallic" used with ppg paint. Came out beautiful! Shot at 2007-07-16 Shot at 2007-07-15

Yup, it's all pretty simple and easy to understand after to you get to know the EFI bible.

I tested my thermotime switch and my head temperature sensor and both check out fine and working. Also checked my coldstart valve to see if it was leaking and is not. I ended up adjusting my afm and it seems to run a lot better (leaner). It was all out of adjustment because when my dad was adjusting when we put the new engine in it ( didn't know what he was doing) so I think that was the culprit. Thanks again!!

Thanks guys, it seems to "load up" when you punch it or get into the high rpm's around say 3500. When this happens, it will load up and jurk because it's getting to much fuel and blow a big cloud of smoke out the back. Could this be timing? I'm thinking it could also be the head temperature sensor staying open causing the rich mixture. Thanks again for the comments.

First, take the wipers off. Then there are four screws on the front where the cowl mounts, pop those off and (carefully) pull the cowl off. Very easy, doesn't take me more than 2 minutes.

Thanks for the info, that screw you are mentioning is not the idle speed adjustment screw for the rpm. That screw is to adjust the rich/leaness of when the engine is at idle.

Thanks for the help guys! I'll have to try that!

Thanks for the help guys! Greatly appreciated! I turned that screw to the left to lean it out roughly half a turn and I'll see if that makes any difference.

My stock '76 280z is running on the rich side. I start it up when it's cold in the morning, it will always leave a black spot on in the garage or in the driveway from under the tailpipe which is telling me it's running rich and also the poor mpg. Is there something in the AFM that I can dial back to lean the mixture out with? Thanks.