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JoshB 240Z

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Posts posted by JoshB 240Z

  1. Adam,

     

    Are you trying to mate the Ford front yoke to the Datsun rear flange? If so, the better method is to purchase the Chevy adapter for the rear flange and have a drive shaft made with the Ford front yoke and Chevy rear flange. For my swap I was able to have this done in a day or so.

     

    Josh

  2. lilredZ,

     

    I've seen your car up close and it's well built. There are several people in the Bay Area with V8's and a few with Ford engines in them. I've been running a 302 for a few years but don't spend too much time at any of the local gatherings.

     

    I installed a stock 5.0L engine from a 1990 Mustang GT and pretty much left it stock. In that form the car ran 13.1 @ 110mph without too much effort. The car is used for autocrossing so the suspension is setup for corners and not drag race launches and traction at launch is limited. Because of this launches are in 2nd gear and anything more than idle results in tire spin. Two years ago I bought an old style Paxton supercharger and installed it. The first few times at the track the car ran about the same ET's with the mph closer to the 117-119 mark. The last time we took it to the strip I ran a 12.50 @ 119mph, again starting in 2nd and rolling into the gas once moving. With the mph in the 120 range I'm sure the car could run faster with a harder launch.

     

    The supercharger added quite a bit of power and it's only pushing 5psi. All of this on a 9:1 stock engine so I would expect that even a very mild supercharger would give you the extra 50-100hp you're looking for with your current build. More gains could be possible with better optimization of your components for use with the supercharger like cam, heads and fueling.

     

    Welcome to the group!

     

    Josh

  3. bschiltz,

     

    That's exactly what others are advocating. Pull the harness and computer along with the engine, if possible, and wire it up. If you can't get all of the parts from the same car remember that there are slight variations in EFI setups. Things like speed density vs. MAF systems and different injector firing order (a completely seperate debate) between HO computers and the regular computers. Try to keep the EFI parts all from the same car.

     

    When pulling the harnes remember that you shouldn't have to cut wires to get the entire engine harness out of the car. You can remove the entire engine harness by disconnecting the main connectors in the engine compartment and then cut the opposite end out of the donor car's main harness for a clean install in your Z. I always cut the wires at least 6" past the connector so that I have extra wire to connect into the Datsun harness and still keep the "modular" nature of the Ford harness so that future harness swaps or testing is easy.

     

    Josh

  4. 660Z is right on.

     

    Just one more tidbit....

     

    The external dimensions of the 260/289/302 engines were all the same so a 302ci block will fit in the place of a 260ci block. Bore and stroke changes were made to increase displacement.

     

    We autoX with the local (NorCal) Tiger club sometimes and they are a great bunch of people who like to drive their cars. If you want more info search the internet for a local tiger club and shoot them an email.

     

    Josh

  5. 240ZGTR-

     

    Did you use Alsil's mount or make your own? Are you running EFI? This could explain why you didn't have steering shaft or hood clearance issues. If you did use this mount, how far back did you put the engine?

     

    Ford boy-

     

    I wasn't able to get the engine installed using this mount without cutting the steering shaft. It wasn't a big deal, I cut it where I needed the bend, purchased a steering u-joint and took the assembly to a welder I trust. As for the transmission mount, you can use the JTR mount and just drill it for the Ford transmission mount per Alsil's website or you can fab your own.

     

    For the driveshaft, go to a reputable driveshaft shop and they will know exactly what to do. Most people purchase a T5 yoke with a Ford u-joint up front, a Chevy u-joint in the rear to the Chevy to Datsun yoke that bolts to the R200. All new parts and labor cost me less than $200.

     

    Josh

  6. I wouldn't pass over the stock EFI because of it's smog capabilities. There are lots of Ford's running stock based EFI setups that put out a lot of power. Since you're in Oakland you shouldn't have a hard time finding the EFI out of an early 90's Mustang to use and at the local Pick N pull's the harness and other necessary items are cheap. Once you have the parts installed and the engine running well, there are a few shops in the Bay Area that can tune the ECU for your setup.

     

    Josh

  7. I currently run a Z31 booster and 17/16's (identical to the Z32) master on my 73 240Z. The swap is pretty straightforward but isn't a bolt on. The mounting studs on the Z31 booster are located further out from center on the later booster so new holes will need to be drilled in the firewall. IIRC this left one of the studs very close to the steering column support under the dash which made getting a nut on the stud somewhat difficult. I have been running this setup for a few years now and it works just fine.

     

    I'm running Wilwood Superlite 4 piston calipers up front and the typical 280ZX rear disks.

     

    Josh

  8. I have been planning on trying an aftermarket intake but houses, coil-overs and other stuff gets in the way. Someday....I hope.

     

    I also machined 1/2" off of the lower intake surface (of a spare lower manifold I had) where the upper and lower mate which solved my clearance issue but the fuel rails didn't fit under the now lower upper manifold and I didn't feel like messing with it anymore. I swapped that lower out for one that wasn't machined but I pretty sure it could have worked with a little more "adjusting." In the end I just wanted to drive the car and didn't have the patience to keep chasing the next problem. Now that the car is becoming more and more reliable I will focus on making it pretty again.

     

    Josh

  9. Using the mount out of the box will cause some clearance issues with the hood just right of center about 12" down from the hood line at the cowl. Does that make sense? My clearance problem was the TPS sensor hitting the hood when the hood was fully closed. I believe another member modified the mount to lower the engine which allowed for more clearance. Me? I just used a little 2lbs hammer to clearance the hood and then smoothed the body work out on the outside.

     

    I have the engine pushed all of the way back so that the upper intake manifold is about 1/8" away from the hood latch. If you removed the hatch you may be able to slide the engine back a little more but I'm not sure that it would be enough to solve the clearance problem.

     

    Besides...the blister gives people something to talk about.

     

    Josh

  10. I run a 1 and 1/16" master cylinder identical to the unit pictured in Steve's post. I pulled mine from a 1997 Subaru Legacy wagon and installed it on a later booster. I use this MC because of the 1.75" Superlites I run up front and the lack of an internal proportioning valve. This MC is also easier to find in junkyards these days...if you go the used route.

     

    Josh

  11. That's really a question of personal preference. I have had both turbocharged and supercharged cars and I would take a supercharged car over turbo these days. That's my current preference. Superchargers are common on 302's and there is a lot of tech on them while turbos are less common. The cost of the supercharger kits for the 302's are generally also lower than current turbo kits....and then there's heat, pipe routing and packagine to deal with. All things to consider....

     

    Josh

     

    PS-I sure do love my Paxton powered car!

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