underground

House of Kolor PBC-36, TruBlue Pearl I had upgraded twins, but the downpipe was melting everything under the hood. Much easier for clearances to go singe.

The turbo was sponsored, so I have no idea on the cost. Careless, we are not done yet with the manifold, and will be working on bracing options tomorrow.

I was hoping this was going to be a bolt-on affair, with just new 4" piping needing to be fabricated......right.... The new turbo hit the valve covers, so Jason @Matchless Performance came to the rescue to modify the exhaust manifold. The block looks so lonely without it's friend. Starting the modification work on the manifold, basically changing the angle on the flange so the turbo sits flush. So now....the actions shots... Borg Warner 74mm vs my old 63.5mm GT4088R

It's no secret at this point back in Dallas, but I have changed out the turbo setup, and am shooting for 1100 HP on C16. I'm upgrading to 1600cc injectors, a single Weldon Racing Fuel Pump, and new 4" piping. Wish me luck, I should have some numbers to post up in the next few weeks.

Sorry about the delay on posting up dyno numbers, but I have crazy busy and the car has sat for the past few weeks. I have not added C16 yet, but I did tune the car for E85 Pump Gas. Right now, E85 (106 Octane) is $2.18/gallon at the pump here in Texas, so it's a no-brainer. As you can see at 25 PSI, the car made 629/490. I'm decently happy, but will be upgrading probably to a GT42R, as I really want to break 700whp on pump gas. Also, took the car to be weighed, and I was pleasantly suprised. With full interior minus a passenger seat, and 3/4 tank of gas, the car came out to 2890 lbs. Look for a larger turbo, and big power numbers over the next few weeks!

What is the spline count on the R32 GTR Output Shafts/Axles?

First off, I'd like to start out by thanking the staff at Matchless Performance in Carrollton, TX (Dallas) for providing the install photos and labor. While there is information about this swap on the web, I wanted to provide a concise photo step-by-step install guide for the members. After installing the Mazworx Drag Axles, and blowing both of the Mazworx modified factory 240sx 29-spline output shafts on the first pass, I found myself looking for upgraded output shaft options. After talking to SMRacing on FA, he told me about the Q45 differential and the stoutness of this piece. The 90-96 Q45 (R200) features the same beefy 6-bolt 30-spline axles, hubs, and output shafts used in the 90-96 Nissan 300ZX TT (R230). All Infiniti Q45's came with VSLD differentials, making this a great upgrade for those looking to upgrade to R230 durability without having to modify the S13/S14 subframe. The 90-96 Q45 had a 3.54 final gear, and the 97-01 had a 3.69. The swap is VERY easy to do, and is a rather bolt-in affair using the S13 or S14 differential cover from your current differential. Parts list needed: A.) (Your Model S13 or S14) differential cover B.) Q45 VLSD differential C.) Q45 or 300ZX TT Wheel Hubs (great upgrade for the 4-lug guys who have been looking for a reason to go 5-lug) D.) 300ZX TT Driver Side Axle (installed on passenger side of 240SX) and Infiniti Q45 Driver Side Axle (installed on drivers side of 240SX). Here are two comparison photos of the stock Non-VSLD 240SX Output Shaft (left), Q45 (middle) and Mazworx Modified 240SX Output Shaft (right). OEM Q45 Output Shafts (driver and passenger) 1.) Start out by swapping the Q45 differential cover with your factory S13 or S14 diff cover. Before we move to the next step, let's take a look at the size difference of the input flange on the Q45 vs 240sx differential. You will need to remove this piece from the Q45 differential, and prepare for modification. 2.) You will need to take a marker of same kind, and draw out the 240sx driveshaft yoke bolt pattern onto the Q45 input shaft, and prepare for drilling (4) holes. You could also order a Q45 yoke and have it swapped onto the 240SX driveshaft. However, I dont see the need for the added expense, as the Q45 input shaft flange is large enough that I dont feel tapping four more holes will hurt the structural rigidity. All done, now to install back onto the Q45 differential. Richie painted this piece black for aesthetic purposes, but here is the drilled input flange installed onto the differential. After this step is finished, simply bolt the differential into the 240sx subframe, and re-install. Note: Your factory driveshaft will not need to be modified in any way. I put together this spreadsheet that shows the effects of the Q45 gears on the RB25DET Transmission. It is simple to manipulate, as your choice of transmission may differ. http://www.undergroundmotorsports.com/rb25q45.xls Happy Driving!

I wanted to clarify some information I read on here. All Q45's used the R200 casing, however they use 300ZX TT SIZED hubs, output shafts, and axles. They also use the same spline count, so you can use a 300ZX Hub or a Q45 hub when upgrading to the Q45 differential. I think most people look at the size of the axles, hubs, and output shafts and assume it's a R230 diff. The 90-96 Q45 used a 3.54 and the 97-01 used a 3.69 final gear. The 90-96 Q45 uses the same 6-bolt axles as the ones found in the 300ZX TT, not sure about the 97+ as I haven't pulled one from a junkyard yet. This differential is the best kept secret for the Nissan enthusiast who doesn't want to have to spend the money to modify their subframe for the R230 300ZX TT differential. I have been having a problem with my R200 (Non-VLSD 240SX) differential breaking output shafts. The output shafts are way too tiny, and snap inside the differential. With the Q45 differential, the output shafts are literally about 2 1/2 inch thick, or about twice the size of the output shafts found in the R200 240SX diff. Just some food for thought.

Need a photo of the R32 GTR Output Shaft Hey Guys, I'm trying to decide on a Differential Upgrade for my 240sx, as I keep breaking output shafts. Thread with photos of broken output shafts: http://forums2.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?t=171982 I have been told, while the R32 GTR is an R200 diff (just like the 240SX), the output shafts are larger,stronger, and made of a different metal. I already have 300ZX TT Hubs and Axles, with modified 240SX Output Shafts to mate up. I'm hoping the R32 GTR Output Shafts will bolt-up to my Mazworx Drag Axle Assembly (aka. 300ZX TT Axles and 300ZX TT Hubs), and would appreciate it if someone could take a photo of their differential for me. I wanna see what the bolt pattern is on your output shafts. If this wont work, I'm going to pickup a 97-01 Infiniti Q45 differential, and deal with the 3.69 final gear ratio. I know it uses the same style output shafts as the 300ZX TT, and will mate up with no problems. I'm just nervous going with that tall of a gear, as it will possibly make the car a dog on the street. Thanks!

While I still have the interior to finish off, here are the completed exterior shots. This 240SX has been four years in the making, with 30 corporate sponsors on the stage II build. I want to give a special thanks to Andy Vaughn @ Southern Imports, and Chris Hamilton (tuner) for their work on the vehicle.

Gosh dang, finish that thing up already, lol.

We now have everything finished with the motor minus the installation of the new 24x12x4 intercooler that arrived today. I want to thanks Matchless Performance (Addison, TX) for the fabrication of the downpipe, which came out better than I would have ever imagined. The welds are amazing, and extremely clean. Here are the latest images:

Monday Night, Andy and I worked til 2 a.m. @ Southern Imports to get the motor running. When we attached the AEM EMS ECU, it started first crank with the AEM supplied base map. I was very impressed with how simple the box is to use, and I want to thank Sean Morris for taking my phone call late at night to confirm we had the configurations setup accurately. We still have lots of work left to be done, and these are, by no means, final images. As you can see, there are aftermarket gauge sensors that need to be hooked up. The boost controller is not installed, the intake for the turbo still needs to be ordered, downpipe has not been fabricated, and the upper intercooler piping has not been polished. But the motor runs, and that's a success in itself. Yesterday, I transported the car to Texas, and will be finishing up the car here. Once again, thanks to Andy Vaughn @ Southern Imports in Murfreesboro, TN. He, by himself, built 95% of the car that you are fixing to see. He is a amazing fabricator, engine builder, and friend. Thanks again Andy! Here are the images and the start-up video:

I live in Dallas, TX and I've never heard of them.

It's an issue with the Nissan CAS. People using the FCON to AEM to PowerFC have all had issues. It doesn't happen 100% of the time, but it's a documented problem. Feel free to read up on the issue on freshalloy.com The issue comes in at High RPM's, typically over 7000+. I'll try to get Henry @AEM to make a post to explain, or perhaps Sean Morris. It's not common to see problems on stock ECU's, as those owners aren't spinning them up past 7500-8000 RPM.

Yes, the price will increase most likely. So no, the previous guys will not be eligible, as this is not an AEM issue. As mentioned, it's a Nissan issue.

Place a call to AEM, because they didnt have the pricing info yet released when I called yesterday.

Yes, way less points is what I overheard. Apparently, I wasn't supposed to post this up, as this wasn't supposed to slip to the public. But oh well, I'm just glad to see this fix out there, as this has been a problem with every aftermarket ECU I know of on the GTR's. It will be annonced in the next 2-3 weeks from my understanding, and will begin shipping with the boxes shortly thereafter.

Hey Guys, Just wanted to make those of you who are using the AEM EMS for the RB's aware that AEM has released a new aftermarket trigger wheel. Many of you who have experienced issues with this box now have a solution. The CAS fix is a new trigger wheel that goes in the existing CAS housing and they are currently available. This will require some modification to the OEM CAS, so you may want to leave this job up to your mechanic.

Full Race also sells them, ask for Geoff.

I wanted to mention that you will need to use the Tomei Oil Restrictor in the Head, and an upgraded Oil Pump (Jun or Tomei, IMO) if you want to address the major problem areas.

By the way, this is not a Group Buy, nor will one be offered. This is strictly for anyone who is interested in purchasing for their car.

After being contacted by several members on the board who saw the Desynz Motorsports Oil Return Head Mod on the BF Goodrich Tires Demo RB26DETT 240SX, I contacted the manufacturer (friend of mine) in Australia and wanted to pass along the product for those that were interested in purchasing. The RB's are notorious for their oiling issues, and this head mod is recommended on any modified RB. Oil tends to get trapped in the head under acceleration forcing oil buildup in the back of the head, which leads to oil starvation in the pan. The Desynz Motorsports head mod greatly reduces these issues. The fitting is easy as to install, and comes with all the bolts and o-rings required to install. All thats needed to install it is a drill, and a M6 tap. Any machine shop should be able to do it very easily, or you can do it yourself if you have a basic mechanical knowledge. All you have to do is remove the top welsh plug on the back of the head drill and tap 4 holes and install. I normally use a -12 alloy weld on fitting on the sump of a GTR or -12 steel on RB20/25/30. I can also supply the weld on fittings for the sump for an extra $10 if you'd like. In order to finish the installation, you will need to purchase the following pieces: (1) -12 AN straight hose end fitting (1) -12 AN 45 degree hose end elbow (1) 3 Feet of -12 AN braided line Images of the finished installation on the 240SX: If using the RB26 Oil Pan, Please weld the sump fitting on here: If using the RB25 Oil Pan, please weld the sump fitting on here: The reason we put it at the bottom of the pan is because crankcase pressure at high RPMs would cause the oil to stall inside the line, preventing it from free flowing back to the sump. Below the oil line is where we got the best results from. SR20s also suffer from a similar problem with their factory oil return to the sump because the oil return is above the oil line. The oil return from the head actually breathes crankcase pressure and oil vapor back out of the sump rather than draining oil back down into it. Thats why they have a small cannister mounted to the tappet cover, it catchs the vented oil under high revs and allow it to drain back under decel or lower engine load periods. The reason we put it in the front of the pan is because typically lateral acceleration causes the oil to head towards the back of the pan therefore aiding the drain-back process. My paypal is chrisariggs@hotmail.com, and shipping will take 2-3 days from time of order. Please specificy what oil pan you are using, if you include the extra $10 for the weld-on fitting.

A shot of the finished oil cooler assembly: McKinney Motorsports Race Motor Mount Kit, Tranny Mount, and Driveshaft Everything on the bottom fitted up nice and snug: Step-by-step Photo Guide: Greddy RB26DETT manifold, adapted to run twin-scroll and the Tial Sport 60mm wastegate. The wastegate had to be moved to fit into the 240SX engine bay.

Yesterday, Andy began finishing out the fuel system, which should be done today. Up Next was the Exedy Triple Disc Clutch, special thanks to the team at Exedy for their support over the years. Ran the -12 AN Lines from Desynz Motorsports Oil Return Mod from the back of the head to the oilpan, as seen in the following two photos. Finished the lines to the cooler, so that mission is completed.