RangerWill

Ton of stock stuff. Intake manifold, headlight covers, seat belts, spare tire, stock Intake components, stock exhaust manifold, kyb struts and springs, driver seat. Text me if you would like pictures. You must pick up(Columbus, ga) . 253-254-4167

Pulls hard and handles*** like no other

I have a 77 280z Resto-mod. Pulls hard and Hanan s like no other. Tokico struts and springs, MSA front and rear 1" sway bars, MSA front and rear strut bars, Energy Suspension master bushings kit, new ball joints, new tie rods. Engine has a shaved, polished, port matched intake, MSA cold air intake, JSK fuel rail w/autometer fuel pressure gauge, Fuel Lap adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Brand new Injectors, custom fitting from MAF to throttle body, 240SX throttle body, Thunderbolt wires, Flamethrower ignitor coil, New distributor cap and wheels. Full performance interior. All new! A/C BLOWS COLD! That's all just the beginning! Amazing car. Won't disappoint. $10,000 firm. Email for pics and more info if interested. Williamboliver2587@gmail.com

I have an amazing 77 280z resto-mod. Lots of interior and suspension upgrades. I daily drove it for months. Little things done to the motor like 240sx thottle body and ZX turbo alternator. Pulls hard and looks awesome. $10000. email for pics. Worth every penny. Williamboliver2587@gmail.com.

I also have a 77 280z. Rust free. Put in premium MSA pans. Lots of interior and suspension work. Little things done to the motor like shaved intake, 240SX throttle body, wires, ZX turbo Alternator. Asking $10000. Email for pics and you'll see why. I daily drove this car. Tip top Resto-mod.

On my way to an autox this past Sunday and didn't make it. I got about 20 miles into a 60 mile trip to the heli pad near Dothan, AL. Lost 70% power and started pouring white smoke out of the tail pipe. Pulled over and popped the hood. Engine continued to run but, poorly. I smelled the smoke that was white have you and it smelled of straight gas. I inspected all my connections and leads. I have a ISK fuel rail with gauge and it showed normal pressure. I pulled the all the injector connectors with no change in the 6th,5th, and 4th cylinder with the 6th being closest to the firewall. Ran the motor for awhile trying to determine the issue. I have my fuel pump on a hot switch. I switched it off and the pressure immediately falls to zero and kills the motor. Under normal circumstances it take 10 secs or so for any change to accur once I shut the fuel pump off. Which leads me to believe it's drowning the motor in fuel. After 20mins or so on the side of the HWY it starts to run normal again. So I turned around to head home. No autox for me. Thought the issue was gone not knowing what it was to begin with. After 10 miles or so same issue came back. Exactly the same. Been crazy busy at work(20 hr days) and haven't had time to look into the issue. Hopeing you guys could steer me towards the source of this issue. Thanks.

Ended up getting new rotors. Other ones were probably OE. They would have been turnable but very very close. New ones were cheap. Brakes work great now!!! Thanks again everyone for your help.

Got the wheels of and spun the rotors by hand. They were so mid turned they were rocking the pistons back into the caliper. The tech at the auto skills center used a machine that allows you to turn the rotors while they're on the car. The machine was wobbly as hell. I asked him multiple times if it would do a good turn with it wobbling like that and he was so so damn sure it was fine. Well they are fixing the F up now on a actual turning machine. I raised hell about it. Had to go Drill Sergeant mode. Haha. But, left the hat at the house. So hopefully this fixes it. Thanks again NewZed. I'll let yall know the outcome once mounted and a test run.

Will report back soon. Appreciate your help NewZed!

Trust me brother I'm not ignoring any suggestions at this point. I will remove the front wheels and check out the actions of the caliper compressing. I understand what your saying and it makes sense. I'll take a video and see about sending it to you or posting it on YouTube for you and others to take a stab at it. Haha. I did just now plug both rear lines. Went on a test drive and still the same issue. Just trying to eliminate piece by piece. Just not understanding how anything changed other than the damn fluid. I appreciate all of guys support. Just trying to update you guys after every step I take.

The issue occurred after I removed the calipers and changed out the wheel cylinders. I never touched the MC. I checked just now to be sure though. They're good.

Looking for a good brake proportioning valve for a 77 280z. Think mine quit on me. Or if you have an aftermarket setup. I'm running stock brakes. Thanks. I'm

The got at Nissan said it's the brake proportioning valve. Hes worked there for 35 years and races a 510. Now I know someone mentioned a brake safety switch. How do you reset that? Other options?

Well I'm going to stop at Nissan and see what they have to say. The manager there is a big Z and 510 fan.

Could it be my booster? There is a hiss sound that I hear near the MC/BOOSTER when I have a friend pump the brakes. Guess I just thought it to be the fluid surging.