nakagusukumike

Nah, I had the VH idea before I ever met chance, but yeah... it's still the plan. Just gonna be a while. We'll see how contract renewal goes. Also might be looking to find a new garage.

Can you see the sequential hiding behind the welder? One of my dog boxes the sequential

planning on doing the VH45 with a haltech, pistons, rods, head totally worked and basically getting it as bitchin as can be while staying N/A. Not going after crazy numbers with it. If anything, the numbers I'm chasing are low weight numbers. This car will be a fair weather cruiser and just a general nice night time cruise car. I'll put a dog box in it eventually, be it a PPG that goes into the stock Z32 mission case or use one of my GT-R transmissions (i've got 2 dog boxes and a sequential) and just cut up the bellhousing to a Z32 spec so it will bolt onto the VH.

After much consideration I've decided on doing an N/A VH45 swap into my Datsun 260Z. My car is a 74 which was purchased in San Diego then brought to Okinawa when I moved back here about 5 years ago. I've been doing a restoration on and off for a WHILE. But I've also been busy building a house and family. Things are finally starting to settle down and now I've got some time to work on the Z again and a place to do it; my garage. Here are my rough plans: install stock rear-member/diff get the car back to a rolling chassis install VH45 and Z32 mission with mazworx adapter plate custom drive shaft to be installed only for JCI with stock rear end Get JCI done and generate Japanese title, complete legitimate Konin for the car with the engine and transmission on the title drop the stock rear member and pull the motor/mission out again start hacking up the back frame/floor and modify the car to accept a totally unmodified BCNR33 rear member Get back to a rolling chassis with the new rear end in Put the motor/mission back in Design roll cage system cut up piping for roll cage and mock it up Pull motor/mission weld in roll cage stitch weld all panels on the unibody and incorporate the roll cage into the body everywhere possible full paint underside/interior/engine room/etc... reinstall engine/mission custom driveshaft for the BCNR33 rear end Put fenders/hood/doors/hatch back on and final paint. reinstall glass, finish wiring, finish interior, etc... then it should be pretty well done. I'm expecting this to take a few years. maybe more than a few. I was going to do an SR20, but had a good friend beg me not to. I'm concerned that there are many build threads on VH45 Z's but I never see any of them complete.

same thing everyone else does of course... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/65455-fuel-cell-fuel-plumbing-install-w-pics/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/89483-fuel-cell-install/page__p__860151__hl__fuel%20cell__fromsearch__1entry860151

rough plan from here: put the floors in. get a rear member and mock it up. check fit. fab up a rear frame. fab up front frame, cut out frame rails in the engine bay. Connect front frame to rear frame via square frame stock. weld in roll cage welded to the frame and tabbed to the chassis like a mad man from strut tower to strut tower front to back. Throw the roof on. primer the whole thing. Mechanical build. Install the motor, fuel, driveline, brakes, suspension (all non-running and without anything electrical) Pull all the mechanical **** out. Prime again. Paint. inside and under. Put all the mechanical **** back in. Wiring nightmare. Car now runs, is painted inside and bottom. Paint removable body parts insides (doors, hood, hatch, fenders) Install removable body parts. Paint exterior. Put the car in my garage with no JCI. Cover it with a car cover and never look at it again or drive it for the rest of my life. g83UJ-gqQ_0

TAS 2010 Pics! I've posted up all of my pictures of the Tokyo Auto Salon on the "Inner Sanctum" forum in the events section. http://blacklinux.com/innersanctum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=964 Here is a small preview:

definitely put the mount in right. even tried it the other way just to be sure, but stuff was waaaaaay off the other way. As far as my comments being uncalled for, I'm just stating my experience as it was. I got a much more professional impression out of McKinney than Vildini based on the customer service I received via email from both of them. Guess they spend less time posting on forums trying to save face, and more time taking care of their customers. Again, just my experience though. My friend Joel in San Diego said he had a really good experience with Vildini and his car looks absolutely professional. He's got the gunmetal S30 with the 240SX dash. I'm pretty sure vildini would be much better to deal with for people in the US, and they are probably pretty cool dudes. I still don't get how posting a valid, actual experience (good or bad) is "uncalled" for, isn't that the nature of web forums? People looking for other people's experiences and perspectives on things?

I think vildini started first...

Cheers. Yeah I'm looking at getting a CF or fiberglass hood too just because of the weight and the rust long term. Leaning more toward the CF just because of my one experience with glass hoods and the ridiculous amount of waves in them. My old GT-R hood was just a 100 dollar yahoo japan auctions pile of garbage though, but the Z hoods are SOoooo long, i'd be very worried about strength and waves. It was so bad that it would have been worth the few hundred extra to get CF and save the money in labor costs at the paint shop to smooth it out... please tell me you're gonna fix the baby ♥♥♥♥ green engine bay?

a simple response would have been... professional. My experience in shopping for an SR cradle for my Z is totally relevant to the thread despite not being in your favor. I've got another friend over here using the McKinney mounts for his RB26 S13 and they fit just perfect. DO IT!

i broke my HKS 2.8L RB26 crank in the same spot.

i had good luck with mine, but had to shave them a bit to fit right... I was gonna give my money to the Vildini guys, but I guess I wasn't good enough to get an email response with a quote. The McKinney stuff was good, cheap and shipped super fast. Great experience. http://blacklinux.com/pages/public/cars/Z/20091204/default.htm

Looks much better When you do finally paint it, are you planning on pulling the motor or at least trying to get some of that green out of the engine bay? I've had good luck with http://www.motorsportauto.com/ for some of my replacement parts. Fairly cheap and made well enough. I see where the paint is coming off on the front from where the 240Z badge pins on. I'm planning on smoothing those out on my Z, breaking the tabs off the back of the badges and only doing double sided tape for the badges.

welcome!