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josh817

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josh817 last won the day on May 2 2013

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About josh817

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    Mort
  • Birthday 12/18/1990

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    koolktownkat

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    North Texas

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  1. That's too bad about what's going on. I bought some items from his widow as well. She was very nice and helpful, I guess that's her above! I believe I bought a fuel injection manifold, cam, coolant restrictor, and oil pressure valve from her and ironically at the time she was also selling a Camdoctor which I thought about buying but it would be a table top souvenir at best.
  2. So I can't seem to get any traction from people on this and I'm really not interested in calling a plumber for $150/hr to do something that I can do. I need to replace this valve with a ball valve or some type of key valve like at the water meter. I'm getting mixed up as to how I remove this valve and what type of joints I should use for the next. I'd like to avoid soldering, preferably. Any help? Anything special to connect the PEX to one end? I don't want to tear it and not be ready to put the new one on, then have no water. Looks like they soldered a stub into the valve and then on on
  3. I used a "Stage 3" in my car. Ran fine for the life me driving the car until I parked it.transmission is out but unfortunately I have no intentions on dismantling it further so I won't be able to get you a picture. The stage 3 thing didn't like slipping. It has been discussed before that these puck style clutches, unless their material is better, just require more pressure plate force to get the same friction as a full disk clutch. More force means more wear on your thrust surface of the bearing and crankshaft. Whether that is noticeable when you go to rebuild again, I don't know. I ran it on
  4. THe first start of my motor took a long time for the electric gauge to read. I hate the stock gauge, so sluggish... I wound up getting a hand pump and going in through the sending unit hole. It took quite a bit and whether it was going to the pump or flowing back into the pan I'm not sure but we started her up either way. Gave a few nail biting seconds and it read. Even on my L20B in the pickup, after sitting for 3 days and it being 17º out it took a few seconds to slurp it up. That's the lovely thing about accusumps but you should know that Gira (I presume Greg?). Though I must say I do
  5. Strange world Tony. I was looking for injector bungs to weld onto my airhorns, the type like Derek has with the screw down tops and no fuel rail. My hunt led me through some Z car forums where you were mentioning Jenvey equipment back in 2014. Here Jenvey is again and I'm seriously contemplating scrapping my manifold project along with my 40mm Webers to fund these and just be done with it already... If I can get a bigger injector and see what the 48mm pricing is like. Thanks for the share!
  6. Asheville NC, I saw some nice homes on the internet there that I drooled over. I wanted to add that I just realized at the time of typing this thread I had paid $255 for liability on my 1971 Datsun 521 which mind you is rusty and far from perfect. It's overall value is probably less than $4k. I pay every 6 months so this month it was time to pay again and they raised both my mother and myself by $40-50. I am now paying $295/6mon for only liability. This is important because my rate went up this time, last March was the same amount that last September was. My birthday is in December a
  7. I am surprised, yet at the same time I am not, that they wouldn't include english instructions after spending over $1000 on a distributor. Have you tried speaking to RHDJapan folks or ZCCJDM? I want to say one of them had a rep here on this site many moons ago. I don't know if this type of setup would even have a mechanical advance on it. Perhaps you didn't install the dizzy/oil drive on the right tooth? With this being a programmed curve I'm not sure how it can be off other than the meshing of the gears at the crank. I myself had a problem with a standard distributor because unlike the
  8. I do suppose $600-$900 will get you a welded head, milled, seats machined. If it means being able to use standard flat tops.
  9. If I may interject, and I haven't found the quenched head thread yet but I think we had one, I have always wondered why you can't have pistons made to fill in the recess...? If you're already going to get shaped pistons why not shape them to for the quench pad and squish area you want in accordance with an open head? I have a situation similar to OP's.
  10. I don't even see the point.... No way would I pay $550 to them. I wonder what happens if you just cover yourself for the cost with the insured value.
  11. Just renewed mine. I see they have a feature on their webpage that automatically increases the car's value. For $0 collision and other than collision deductible @ $11k value they wanted $156. With automatic increase value they would up that to $13k for $176, and then towing was $60. So I upped it to $13k and took the towing off since it sits in the garage. I think $13k should be fairly competitive with what I have, I know prices for our Z's have sky rocketed. I only have insurance because the car is registered as an Antique here in Texas (registration every 5 years) and the state requires you
  12. My deal has been less than fun with them. My 240 was my first car and when I parked it is when I wanted to get Hagerty. The title was in my mothers name. They scrutinized us heavily and used all sorts of excuses to revoke us. First was "well you have a son on your regular insurance policy. We can't cover you because he may drive it."... despite the fact that there were 2 cars on our regular policy because we each had our own vehicles separate from the 240. Then after that squabble they came back saying the car doesn't look show quality. No where did I state it was a show car... So we fin
  13. Hi all, it's been a while! I was wondering who you use for your classic car insurer, the cost (per month/year?), and if you so desire, how much you insured for. I recently got my Hagerty renewal statement for May and my premium has gone from $200/year to $236/year and I believe if I remembered correctly I am insured for $11k. I know $36 is chump change but that's an 18% increase when I haven't made any claims. In fact the car has been in garage collecting dust ever since I got Hagerty. From what I read on Yelp, they aren't looking good. Who knows what changes they have made to the
  14. What they offer is probably a 280zx alternator. The ZX should be a direct swap with 60amps internally regulated. You will have to jumper the external voltage reg. I don't know all the details. When I rewired I just left it out completely and run the charge wire from the alternator to the starter post, +12 Bat to the starter post, called it good. Oh and the lamp wire which the 240 won't have since it has an ammeter. I use a 280z voltmeter that has the charge light in it. The third wire is a constant or switched 12v to tickle the alternator. I have mine to a switched 12v so if something goes awr
  15. I ran (and still have) an F54 block 3.1L from when I was 17 until I was 21 when I took the car apart. It ran fine. I doubt it's an issue unless you start revving high, making a lot of power, or just got a really bad block with thin walls. I didn't bother with sonic testing. I feel like this is a matter of what's best and what will work and you're at the point where you can spend extra time and cash to do whats best but really... really, what you have will probably do just fine for your intents and purposes. But that's just me.
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