74.5 347Z

I had the one that was in my car when I bought it. I replaced it with a remanfactured on.

Great call. I replaced the booster today and everything works fine. Just got back from the first test drive. The brakes are not perfect, but I still have yet to adjust the proportion valve and bleed the entire system after reinstalling the MC. Thanks for the help. Mark

I know for sure that my rod has been pulled out several times by me, time to call NAPA. I did read some of the old post where that was mentioned but I don't remember if anyone said that that had caused their problem, unless I read over something. There is quite a few post where many others have the same complaint. Other than having no pedal pressure, do you know if the full pressure is being applied to the rotors? Thanks for your input. Mark

Just wanted to let my fellow Blue Oval guys know that after 2 years 7 months, 16K plus in expended funds, 8 bags of sand, replacement body panels, paint, etc,etc, I finally started my engine. It is a '86 GT "block", .030 over. PAW 347 stroker kit with Probe forged pistons. GT-40 intake, 65mm TB, 24lb injectors, and F303 cam (226 duration/ .512 lift). Centerforce pressure plate/clutch and WC T-5. Dynamax headers with 2-1/2" pipes into a Flowmaster 3" Y-pipe at the rear crossmember, don't have the 3" Flowmaster muffler mounted yet. I used a wiring harness from Ryan McCormick ( http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=21 ) for the fuel injection, and I have to say that the quality is second to none. All connectors, the fuse block, and relays are high quality and it comes wrapped very nicely for a low price of $485. If you have the money and want a quality harness, look this guy up at http://fordfuelinjection.com/. He is a guru whith the EEC-IV. The sad part is I still have the stock MAF, a Pro-M 75mm is on the way. The heads are stock (FOR NOW), I hoping Santa will bring me a set for X'mas, maybe Roush 180's. What I can tell you is that the F303 cam is a monster! Espically with open 3" exhaust pipe turned down at rearend. The lope smoothes out about 1500 and then raps up to 4500 instantly. The computer still hasn't had any tuning and I have yet to see the check engine light after start-up. Anyhow, just wanted to let you guys know. I will try to get some videos posted soon. I still have brake problems that are keeping me from driving it. Mark

I have pumped up my brakes and bled them several times without the engine running, but when the engine is on the brake pedal has no feel to it. At first, the pedal would go all the way to the floor, so I done some searching and found many post of people that had the same problem. I went thru the rod adjusting, bench bleeding, and even the mityvac routines that others had recommended. When I adjusted the rod, the only change is that the pedal doesn't go to the floor now, it seems to stop about halfway. I have the 4-runner kit in the front and the 240sx calipers/300zx rotor kit in the rear, both from Ross. A 280zx MC and Wilwood proportion valve. Every brake line, both hard and braided lines are new, so I gravity bled, bled and then used the mityvac to bleed atleast 10 resoviors of fluid. Still, I can pump the brakes up and bleed them with the engine off but no pedal with the engine on. It does have pressure on the rotors when the engine is on, but I have no way to tell how much. I hope that someone can point out something that I have missed because this is the last hurdle (HOPEFULLY) before I can take that long awaited trip around the block. Mark

I never would have thought that this problem is so common. I have a '77 parts car that I will check to see if it is toed in. Hopefully it is not and I can use the strut from it. Thanks for the info. Mark

I was using string to get a basic alignment so I could get my car to the alignment shop an found that my right rear tire is toed in about 1/2". After looking for bent parts an checking that everything is tight, I can't find anything to explain why this tire is toed in. Has anyone had experience or problems like this? I hope it will be an easy fix because I have to toe this car to VA this weekend. Thanks in advance. Mark

Thanks, I was reading the instructions for the EFI harness that I should be receiving this month and do believe that it has connection to power the coil and relays for the fuel pump and computer. I will have to wait until I get that harness to know for sure. Mark

I bought a harness from E Z Wiring and now trying to decipher the Datsun wiring diagram. The ignition switch has a black w/blue stripe wire that just disappears off the wiring diagram and I can't seem to find where it goes to. It is labeled "R" on the wirng diagram, does anyone happen to know where it goes? The wiring harness has five wires that goes to the ignition switch and the switch has five wires, I am not sure where this one wire goes. At first I thought it would go to the coil but the diagram shows it to be momentary when the key is in the start position. BTW, it is a 5.0 engine and a GM colorcoded harness. Thanks, Mark

Thanks, that is easy. What wiring did you use for your car? I bought a harness from E Z Wiring and now trying to decipher the Datsun wiring diagram. The ignition switch has a black w/blue stripe wire that just disappears off the wiring diagram and I can't seem to find where it goes to. Does anyone happen to know where it goes? The wiring harness has five wire that goes to the ignition switch and the switch has five wires, I am not sure where this one wire goes. I will post in the wiring section also. I appreciate the help. Mark

Can anyone who has used a factory ministarter from the late model 5.0 tell me how it is to be hooked up? It appears that it does away with the starter solonid that Ford used before. Does the battery cable hook directly to the starter and does the ignition start wire hook up to the ignition switch? Mark

Here is a link to one of the many discussions about engine placement using the Ford EFI intake: http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=24881&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 I had to change alsils mount to gain intake clearance because I used the GT-40 intake. If you are willing to use a cowl induction scoop you may be able to use alsils mount without modification. Either way you will have to add at least one U-joint, I had to add two. Best advice is to read thru all the post in this section and a lot of your questions will be answered. Mark

Someone posted a link to a company named E Z Wiring http://www.ezwiring.com/. From the pics it looks very similar to the painless kit and $100 cheaper, this is the one I am installing this month. I also helped a friend wire an old Camaro with one of the painless kits, pretty straight forward. Mark

That would work if I had a driveshaft and axles. Sorry for the deceiving photo. Here is one of the entire car. I was hoping that someone knew for sure that that would be enough travel, or if someone knew the make and model of a car that has a bigger master cylinder. Mark

I Installed a 7/8" pull type slave cylinder thru the hole in the bellhousing and installed a stock 5/8" MC. The travel of the clutch fork is just over the ".375" was written on one of the post I found from some time ago. Can someone please verify that the clutch will disengage with only 3/8" of travel? Here is a pic of my install:

Considering the $75 difference in the two setups and the holes drilled in the bellhousing, I will go with the ballpeen method. Does everyone have this problem or is it because of the position of my engine/trans?

For those of you that have installed your push/pull slave cylinders, does your clutch fork have enough clearance? My clutch fork doesn't clear the trans tunnel and I was wondering if this is a common problem. Just for information purposes, I have a '87 5.0 (347 stroker kit, I have to add), WC T-5, and a GT-40 intake which caused me to have to mount my engine lower and further back. This has caused me to considered using a hyd throwout bearing like Terry's set up. Has anyone priced one of those lately? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Mark