Ghettodeffender

Hello! looking to buy a distributor for my 1977 280z (so any year distributor that is compatible is fine), a crankshaft pulley for an l28, and finally a thermostat housing for a 1977 l28. let me know what you got! email: daltonyh@hotmail.com number: 714-420-1837 (text only please)

are these parts of good quality, I wanted to buy there injector set and a distributor

wish I would of read this before I ordered a custom build, however I met him at his shop aand gave him a lot of my my own parts for the build, I'll let you all know what I think of the build. he does offer a complete warranty and I know where his place of business is so if it turns out to be trash I can raise some hell outside of ebay

so i talked to the guy whos rebuilding the engine, he builds about one of these a week so hes well versed in knowledge of these engines, the final build we decided is n42 head with the flat top pistons so the compression will be 10-1, he said i can run on pump gas of 91 with no issue, but with the cam and compression may have to advancethe timing a little. he said he has made builds likes these a few times and both worked well. Now i asked what are my chances of passing smog with this build, he said should be alright as long as my emissions equipment is working and my catalytic converter is fresh and new. so lets hope this is true, if not it looks like ill be buying a smog if you guys have any thoughts id love to hear them

hmmm well anyone got any ideas on how to pass smog with this cam and stock compression?

what about isoprpyl alchohol mixed in the withe gas 10:1 i believe

well my auto teacher has done it before, just kept adding cats till it passed and it did work

ok sounds like ill probobally just run stock compression, too pass smog ill just putting in cats till it passes

well i'm not gunna tell the smog guy its got a cam...... so aside from that if i had the stock compression would it then?

i'm building an l28 to run compression 10:1 with flat top pistons, basically the build will be this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-240Z-260Z-280Z-ZX-P90-High-Compression-L28-Engine-Motor-Head-w-Warranty-/150906118714?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2322b4a23a&vxp=mtr with a MSA Schnieder cam with Lift(In/Ex): .480/.480. Duration(In/Ex): 274/274. do you think this engine will be able to run on pump gas without the dreaded ping ive been reading about, im hoping that with a cam of that duration it may prevent that but what is your thoughts? Also as a side note my Zed is 1977 so i have to pass the california smog test, do you think an engine of this build will have issues with that?

really! that sounds good, i called a shop to ask for a qoute and they said theyll get back to me tommorrow. Has anyone on here first hand had to get there l series motor rebuilt at a shop?

1000 sounds a little low... especially if there providing the parts

I have not taken it to a shop yet as im still in the process of saving money for it, however id like to have a rough estimate of hours of labor involved that nissan says it takes so i can figure out the labor charges for the rebuild and begin saving. The rebuild would conists of all the parts in the master rebuilb kit on this site http://www.rpmrons.com/Nissankits.html (at the top of the page it explains what it consists of). In your opinions what is a fair price to pay for a rebuild if i provide the kit.

How many hours should it take a shop to rebuild the engine, how many hours does the manufactor say it takes? Thanks!

Ok so i pulled each plug and there is no change in the noise,i am positive i hear a rattle from the front of the engine where thetiming chain us located

Hi guys, so my 280z is finally up and running pretty good, however it has a light knock. when i first got the car about a month ago i figured it was due to bad timing or the god awful old sludgy oil that was in the engine, well i adjusted the timing to factory settings, seafoamed the engine and changed the oil and the knock still remains. so i figured my valves could be out of adjustment, so i had a local shop adjust them and it turns out they were off spec, but still the knock persists. at this point unless i have a bent valve (which it doesnt sound like) i was thinking that perhaps my timing chain is rattling against something? i did notice when i changed my valve cover gasket that the chain wasnt completely tentioned extremely tight. so my question to you is could this perhaps be that my timing chain or tentioner is worn causing this sound? The car has 125,000 miles on it so if they timing set has never been changed it seems like it might be about that time to change it. I will be posting a video of the knock tommorrow

Hi, so my Speedometer and rpm guage just stopped working out the blue, just turned on the car and they stopped working. my turn signals no longer work either. is it possible this could be fuse related, because i couldnt find a fuse for these things in the fuse box

So just an update, i replaced the vlave cover gasket, this time i sanded the **** out of any place that could potentially cause a vaccum leak, so when i put the gasket back on everything was smooth, i then beaded oil on the gasket and put the valve cover back on, fired her up and still runnin like ****, i tested it with a vaccume tester again, and it was at 13 psi at idle like it had been before i changed it. so i took it to a local shop to have them diagnose the vaccume leak source.

Fuel Filter apears to be new, fuel pump is new, fuel pressure set to 36 psi, not sure on the timing, however the car was only sitting in my drve way and i would start it up and let it idle every day, i havent been driving it since the clutch went out. it was idling fine until i removed the valve cover to clean and replace the original gasket, i used a new gasket and sealent on the valve cover and put it back on the engine, i then started her up about an hour later and she starting running like ****, as i described. so i am going to remove the valve cover, put on the gasket this time without sealent and tighten it up nicley to see if that gets rid of the vaccume leak. that is the only thing i can thing it might be (most of the time something like this happens, it seems to be part of a human error). ill let you guys know if that was the source of the vaccume leak

I'm adjusting the screw circled in attatched picture

so my car began doing all the symptoms of a bad airflow meter, so i took it to a shop for diagnosis. they confirmed my suspicion that it was a bad airflow meter and a clogged egr system. I replaced the air flow meter, and unclogged the EGR system and replaced the EGR valve, however the problem still persists. the car idles poorly and misfires under acceleration. it sounds like its not running on all cylinders. All the injectors were tested to be working, and when i try to adjust the idle using the idle screw it doesn't seem to respond much to it. Also if i take the oil cap off when the car is running it doesn't run any different (i Believe the engine is supposed to die if you do that). So Hybrid Z community, what are your thoughts on the cause of this problem, i dont want to keep throwing money at parts that arent causing the problem. Car is a 1977 280z

Hi everyone, first post! I noticed there is some wet oil on my sparkplugs so i am going to change the valve cover gasket to see if that fixes it, is there any valves or seals i should replace while the valve cover is off, anything that is easy to get to and not much of a hassle? BTW i have a 1977 280z, l28 mostly stock