Heavy Z

My T5 has a leaky input shaft seal and this is causing the clutch to slip. So, I figure (1) replace seal (2) replace clutch disk (3) fix the McLeod system with copper fittings before it starts leaking. I'd like to pull the trans with the bellhousing attached, but since I didn't install it myself, I thought I'd check to make sure the JTR setup allows this removal. Hopefully, I won't have to yank out the whole eng/trans package to get the job done. While I've got it out, I've heard from ZDreamer about a sturdier collar to keep the rear output shaft in place. If anyone has a link, let me know. BTW, what clutch disk do I go with? It's a 327, and as the previous owner's phone is down so I'm unsure as to what I've got in there. Do I use the clutch from a '67 vette(engine) or '85 camaro(trans)? Suggestions?? Thanks for the help, Heavy Z

Well, I guess we have no choice here but to start a new political party. 2004 is right around the corner, so mobilize, people! Our platform is solid, and our combined road campaign should allow us to hit most population centers. As word spreads across the land, the legend of the Hybrid Z becomes a household center of discussion. In both brute power and white-knuckle agility, full-blown testimonials will overtake this country from high school rag to CNN, Jeraldo, and Telemundo, in-cockpit-cams will convert thousands as we shift gears from sea to sea. I'm thinking we get Lord Humongous from 'the Road Warrior' as our president (remember the big guy with the hockey mask?), He seemed like a real intellectual who also has a good presence, and of course understands the need for fast-track Hybrid Z legeslation. You know we could... Heavy Z

BTW, mine isn't a Griffin, but a Camaro-type Modine from JTR. Heavy Z

The original post reads as follows: "I bought the 24 x 19 Griffin and it looks good and fits well. Just remember to drop the JTR mount below the frame about .5 - .75 inches so you get hood clearance. That's another one of those things they don't tell you in the manual." Sounds like I've gotta drop it down a bit, is this right? Thanks, Heavy Z

Before I do the radiator install on my 240, it seems as though I remember a post a while back that said the radiator must be moved back a bit to fit, otherwise the radiator cap will hit the hood. Any ideas on how far back it needs to go? Thanks, Heavy Z

How do you make a Fiero handle? In 1988 GM finally gave the Fiero suspension that was designed for the car, not out of the parts bin. The old cars were unpredictable and dangerous if you pushed them. Considering the way you explained taking that turn I'd say it must've been an '88, otherwise it would've been flipping end over end.... Heavy Z

Thanks everyone for your help! Heavy Z

Thanks Davy, that is EXACTLY the kind of mount I'm looking for!!! Heavy Z

Ok, as opinions are flying I'll give my two cents. I am set up with a with a T5 at the moment and when it fraggs I'll be 700 bound, with a manual shift kit so it still isn't full auto. I am convinced that JTR says to go with the 700 for a few good reasons. The top of my personal list has to do with shift times versus speed potential, and a well-prepped V8z winds up faster than average thanks to the weight savings. What slows you down the most in a V8Z is probably going to be your ability to shift quickly, and if you go manual get ready for some exercise if you drive hard. An auto can give you lightning fast shifts and limit your human lag, plus you get an overdrive, which you will need. Good luck, Heavy Z

Thanks for the help, Davy. While I've got your thinking cap rolling for me, I remember that a while ago in a diff post you said that a smog pump bracket could be used to mount an alternator on a sbc with a short water pump. I think you said something to the effect that it mounts it nice and tight, and I'm into that idea as my choices are limited. Where exactly does this setup locate the alternator? Thanks, Brett

Hello all, I just got my new camaro-type radiator and lower mount from JTR. The JTR book says to get rubber mount bushings(which I will do), but what about the upper mount? What should I use, the manual is kinda brief on this and I figure you guys at the forum have lots of practical experience to draw on. I could always rig it, but if there is an upper mount from some other application or any advice for that matter, I'll take it. Thanks, Heavy Z

Hello 320Zeven, yes there are quite a few around the 916 area code. I have a 327 w/ a T5 in mine. I'm in Sacramento, where are you? Heavy Z

I can't tell for sure on this one so check it out. Either way, that car is fast!!! Check this out. BTW the mustang has nitrous, which I think the driver was too busy inhaling. Heavy Z

Welcome to the forum Power Slave, if you haven't found it yet check out the search feature. You'll find that almost everything you can think of has been covered - from the R200 to the 377, etc, etc... I will try to answer some of your questions: I am not sure about the average times you guys are running and I cannot seem to get an accurate average Check out this site - this'll give you an idea on potential 1/4 mile times. The 377 would be a nice choice, use the search and you'll find some info on it. The R200 can handle 400 RWHP so you can forget about a rearend fabs unless you go big. The R200 was one-legged until they went to limited slip in '87, something to consider. I know you want a T56, but here's a thought: I've got a T5 5spd from a Camaro and the engine is a 327 vette engine, and (I can't believe I am saying this) I wish I had a 700R4 auto! I am of the mind that a sports car must be a stick....until I got my Z. These cars are so light and with the torque of V8's you will find that the time between shifts is dramatically reduced because your engine will be up to 6000 in no time, and you'll be buisy shifting more than you think if you hot-dog it. Next time IMO it'll be a 700R4 auto trans with a manual shift kit for me. If you are looking for a 1/4 mi car, then the auto is the way to go. If you go with the T56, you'll find first gear a granny gear and most likely you'll get lazy and just start in 2nd. This depends of course on rearend choice, but generally speaking it's what you'll find with a T56. You do have the coveted 6th gear, however. Now that you've stumbled onto this site you'll find that it's the next best thing to having a mechanic at your side. This site has personally saved me hours of frustration - use the search... Best of luck and welcome aboard, Heavy Z

Did you have the leaf-blower hooked up to the intake? That and your custom pvc exhaust should put you down into the 11's for sure... Heavy Z

It's a 3.54 R200 of the one-legged sort. LSD came in 1987, and from what I remember it takes some extra work getting it to fit. Use the search feature and you should find most of the info you're looking for. Heavy Z

Before I head off to work I wanted to thank both the Juday family for hosting as well as everyone who showed up for the get together - it was really nice to meet all of you in person. Best of luck to all on your projects, may they go smooth and hopefully I'll see ya out on the road... Heavy Z

I was changing my front calipers this weekend and considering all the talk of the weight gain from the toyotas, I thought I'd weigh them to check it out. The stock caliper weighs 9 lbs and the toyota weighs 11.1 lbs. After reading a few posts I expected to see a broader margin between them. With one in each hand, it's hard to tell them apart weight-wise, although I guess that some could say this 4.2 lb unsprung increase translates to 17 lbs of sprung weight up front. This makes me wonder how much the lighter cross-drilled rotors are as all those extra holes might compensate somewhat for the weight gain in the calipers. I hope these numbers are helpful either way you go... Heavy Z

FluxOr, if you haven't yet and before you go any farther with your investigation into a solid mount(or even drive your car, for that matter) - DRAIN the fluid out of the diff if there is even any left in there. I got lucky with my used diff, it had fluid. But that didn't stop me from draining it and filling it with Amsoil synthetic. I've seen enough parts from wrecking yards to know that your R200 could be a bomb waiting to go off if it has some of the crap in it that I've drained from salvage parts. I cannot stress enough the importance of this if you want your diff to last. Yes your diff will make alot of noise if it is low on juice, so this may be your problem after all. If you do indeed have sludge in the diff, change it with a cheaper grade gear oil and run that for a couple of weeks(unless you don't mind the price gauge of buying twice on synthetic) and then drain it again so as to get all the remaining glop you couldn't get the first time. Then you fill the diff with good synthetic - Amsoil or Redline, and as long as your diff doesn't leak you can walk away and forget about it. Now go drive hard - you'll notice a difference I can assure you. And you won't have to learn the hard way like I did when I fragged an RX7 diff years ago... Hope this helps, Heavy Z

Thanks everyone!! The job was alot easier this way, rather than the torture my Haynes manual said I'd have to do Heavy Z

Hello all, I read an old post that looks like it's going to save me alot of time and energy, but I wanted to confirm something before I start. Does the post below mean that I don't have to disconnect my halfshafts when changing rear struts? Only the brake lines and swaybar, then it'll have enough room to get them out? The Z I just bought has coilovers, but judging from the clunk I am hearing in the back I think bigger spacers are needed in the strut tubes. As for removing the front coilovers, after unhooking the brake lines can I just unbolt the strut housing from below at the bump-steer spacer and from above at the strut tower to remove them or is there more to it? Thanks for the help, Heavy Z Here's the original post: You can also remove the sway bar and brake lines and let the whole thing "hang" on control arm. It will swing down and out enough to take off the gland nut and replace the strut with a cartridge, swing it back up, re-attach the lines and bars and away you go. -------------------- John 78 280Z Coilovers, cage, blah, blah, blah original post

Ahh, thanks - I feel better now. Does anyone make those cool front diff brackets I've seen on older posts that are used in conjunction with the original rubber mount? Those look like the way to go. BTW, I've NEVER been in a car that revs faster than a V8 Z. I'm still trippin, as my experience has mostly been in hi-revving alfa Romeos and 911s. The 240 is so light that the engine redlines in no time - these cars need the formula 1-type shifters on the steering wheel! Heavy Z

Hello everyone, I have a very specific type of diff noise that I hope someone has heard before. Here goes.. My new 327/T5 is running VERY quiet despite having a solid mount on my R200. It is very smooth in town, and also on the highway - until you take your foot off the gas and then it happens. As soon as the car decelerates, a vibrating rattle comes at me from (I believe) the solid diff mount. Then I step back on the gas, and it goes away. I don't mind it that much if it's normal, but would appreciate some imput if this has happened to other solid mount users, as maybe it's something else... Thanks, Heavy Z

Well it looks like I've got a winner with that cam, Grumpy! I appreciate the help and the call to Crane to check it out, too. Heavy Z

Thanks Grumpy for the cam info. As for the head specifics, all I can tell you is that it has the Edelbroch performer RPM heads and performer RPM intake manifold. I bought the car with the engine already built, and unfortunately the shop that did the work is no longer in business so it's unknown what the chamber cc's are, and the pistons are supposed to by stock '67 vette 327 pistons. If anyone knows if they are dish or dome pistons, please let me know.