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About s30kid

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    Always Here
  • Birthday 07/12/1995

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    Reno NV
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  1. I did the wiring for the regulator removal however it doenst matter anymore since I hotwired the alternator, Since jumpering the wires on the external regulator just sends constant and switched voltage to the alt. Xnke, What size resistor should I use or what size light bulb whould be correct for the L wire?
  2. So I did the zx alternator upgrade years ago and I never had problems with it before. But the other day my alternator died, so I warrantied it out and put a new one in, and 5 mins later that one fried. So I got another one, checked all my wiring. nothing is out of place, drove the car all day yesterday no issue. Today I stated the car up and let it warm up and the alternator fried again! And every time they fry a plume of smoke comes from them and a wretched smell. So, The way I have the alternator wired is, S is constant power and L is switched power. I no longer have the factory dashbo
  3. I ordered my flares from jpn early June and didn't receive them until late August. I even payed for expedited shipping because i wanted my flares in time for the hot august nights drift event. Same story, automated response with a broken link for tracking info. I emailed many times and got nothing. Finally I direct messaged him on instagram. He replied. I gave him the order info with my name and never got a response. Eventually they showed up on my door. I'm glad they showed up but I'm very unhappy with customer service. Also the flares could be built... better. Maybe more layers in the fibre
  4. Yes I run a turbo dizzy and the last time I checked the trigger offset it was spot on but I will double check when I put it all back together. Thanks for the tip Chickenman I Will try that out. Normally I use red hi-temp rtv but This time I was using all brand new gaskets so I didnt use any. Also I normally run the car straight pipped so when I closed the exhaust cutout I think all the back pressure in the exhaust caused the exhaust gasket to fail.
  5. I forgot to mention the car runs on 91oct pump gas. I have a 16 gallon fuel cell with a 2 inch sump on the back but no sponge. The fuel pump is mounted horizontal to the bar that holds the rear of the control arms. The pump is mounted lower then the output of the tank for gravity feeding. And there is a Russell -6 filter between the tank and the pump. I want to say I had 3/4 of a tank of gas but I'm not sure. But that was a great point you made Namor, I will add a fuel pressure sensor to the megasquirt that way I can check in the future. The fuel pump location has always bothered me and I'd li
  6. Yes, so I got around to working on the car this weekend and it turns out the bolts holding the number 6 runner backed out and caused the gasket to burn up. I already have a new exhaust and head gasket. The head looks good. It has some grooves from the firing ring of the gasket and that's why I'm machining it. Thoes grooves were there the last time I popped the headgasket but I just didn't have enough time to get the head done. My machines that says it's very common to see that and it's caused by the head slightly lifting and smacking back down on the gasket. So I read up on another forum and I
  7. Yes the wastegate tube dumps straight out the hood sorry for the confusion. And I did a little work on the car yesterday. Compression test with 150 across the board. Number 6 is where the gasket has blown however it's a small pinhole. And by that I mean the car isn't blowing smoke and consuming all the water and overheating like usual. It's just slowly sipping the coolant. I actually drove the car all day yetlsterday and only had to top off the radiator once. Also I retract my statment about the headgasket going through the exhaust I actually believe it was the exhaust manifold gasket that got
  8. The compression is around 8.3:1 with the n47 head with 10cc dished pistons. I do plan on getting a knock sensor and I forgot to mention I do plan on getting a dyno tune once I replace the gasket. As well as rejecting the methanol. I'm waiting on a new nozzle the one I have is too big right now and bogs the motor down. I think it's like a 600hp nozzle. Sorry for the fast reply I'm at work right now
  9. Hello everyone I was hoping for some insight on my tune for my car. I though I had set it up to be very conservative, running rich under boost with low timing, however I have blown another headgasket. I had a date set to get the car tuned but that turned into a huge fiasco with the tuner taking my car for over a week and completely blowing me off resulting in some heated conversations. Long story short I took the car back and had to fully retune the car because it ran worse then when i brought it to him. I got the car running great on 5psi of boost daily for a few months. afrs were 11s u
  10. I got the car running great! I coppied Cygnus's afr table, spark table and fuel table and then set my trigger offset to 66 and the car ran great. I then used the timing light to dial in the timing with megasquirt and my final number is 53.30. I got the car running with timing locked at 10* then used the timing light on the motor till the motor was at 10* and the car runs perfect. The tune Is perfect for anyone that wants to run a stock style l28et with 440cc injectors.
  11. ^ Thats exactly what I am doing right now. However, in his file his angle offset was set to -66 and when I ran that number TS I was getting an error for a negative value so I set it to 66 and the car fired up and died. So The problem was definitely my angle offset value being way off but my battery died so I will try again tomorrow.
  12. Hey guys I just got my new motor all together and i'm trying to start the car so I can set base timing and brake the motor in but i'm having a hard time getting it to run. Setup f54 block .020 over .020 over stock pistons n47 head with na A cam stock turbo stock boost ported intake ported rb25 throttle body palnett rail 440 cc injetors fuel lab 1:1 pressure regulator CAS dizzy GM coolant temp and intake air temp I have never tuned ignition tables before so I think thats where my problem is Im trying to setup the car so that it runs like a stock l28et but wi
  13. I got the steering fully finished and working perfect I used needle bearing eyelts for mounting the rod to the fenderwell. Also finished installing the control arms and rolled the car outside. I just need tension rods now.
  14. Also, Once I get my steering shaft connected to the column I can install the motor and start driving the car again and I will let everyone know of any possible bump steer issues or any issues for that matter. Obviously with the camber where it is there is going to be a loose feeling or maybe a wobble on the freeway. But what I am trying to accomplish here is to show everyone that is IS possible to run an RX7 FC rack in a Z. Weather you section your inner tie rods, or greatly extend the lower control arms. Either way Its possible.
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