Pop N Wood
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Posts posted by Pop N Wood
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You need more than just the pedals. You need to bolt them to the firewall. On a Z there is a box bolted into the firewall that mounts all the pedals and brake parts. So one way to do it is take everything apart and bolt in the pedal box from the manual trans car. It's a bit of work.
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Increased load on the trans mount, gimme a break. What do you think is going on when you launch a car using a trans brake?!!!!! I doubt any static weight on a trans mount can compare to the rotational force exerted during launch. Don't split hairs, for asphault, rigid frames seem to give more predictable resultant forces IMO!
Have you read the rest of the thread?
Splitting blond hairs IMO.
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Edit: My only point is that frame mounting will produce highly focused loads on the rail (instead of the crossmeber), whereas crossmember mounting disperses the loads over a broad area of the unibody
Attaching the motor to the car that far in front of the motor's center of gravity will also put increased static weight on the transmission mount.
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As long as nothing is melted starter solenoids are rebuildable. Just open it up, clean out all the copper dust and file down the connections.
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The site I linked posts all their flow numbers. They have numbers for their LS6 packages also. Plus Trick flow, AFR, and eventually L92 heads.
All I know is I have a dyno book where they took an LS2 motor (which have the LS6 heads), sent the heads to TEA and added a cam to get 572 HP. People on LS1tech.com talk highly of them too.
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most of my seam sealer just pealed up. Especially in the rusty areas.
If the seam sealer is still really well attached and you don't have any rust issues, then you might was well POR over it. If you do remove it, then make sure to reapply new sealer.
By the way, putting dry ice on the tar for a minute or two then smacking it with a hammer is a lot easier than using a chisle. I got dry ice from the local Safeway grocery store.
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This place has an excellent reputation for porting LS heads.
Beware of the first gen SBC head porter who turns his experience to LS heads. Mike Kelly was disappointed when he had his LS heads worked.
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This is another excellent source of 5 and 6 speed tranny info
http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/
The GM version of the TKO trans has both electronic and mechanical speedo outputs and will bolt up anywhere a muncie trans did. Torque rating is higher than the LS/LT T56 variants and almost as high as the $3200 Viper T56, yet is only $2000. You do lose a gear and many people complain about the shift feel.
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This book has a number of good dyno combos exploring various upgrades to LSx motors. For $20 it is good entertainment
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The whole pedal box unbolts from the firewall.
To be complete you will also need a rubber shifter boot and the leather cover.
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Z car stub axles are friction welded together.
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How do you know the tires weren't like that when the PO put them on the car?
This isn't the space shuttle. Just fix what you know needs fixing and take it from there.
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As long as you are talking Tacoma, get a 4x4 chassis, jack that bad boy up a foot or so and put on some 35's
Now that would be a ride.
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Replace the front suspension parts, make sure everything is tight, then take it to an alignment shop. They will tell you if anything is still bad/worn out.
The tires shouldn't wear like that, but kind of dumb wondering why when you have known bad parts.
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You don't need a stroker kit to hit that HP goal. I have a book where they took a stock LS2 crate motor, had the heads reworked, added a cam and got 572 crank, NA HP. So maybe $2k beyond the price of an LS2.
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How do you mean pop? lol I'm not downing beating on it, just saying when you beat on a stock auto tranny like that you have to expect problems no?
I'm with you on this. Just thought your remark was funny.
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I can't help but wonder how many people are going to still insist that the Chargers have no chance next weekend...
+1
But hey, great game. Mr Beam and I really enjoyed watching it while working on the Z. Love to see that look on Peyton's face.
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I hate to be negative but looking at your you tube vids would it surprise you if the tranny was going?
LOL
Isn't that the point of all this?
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People have posted that cars with braided fuel lines tend to stink up a garage.
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JTR doesn't make a kit for LS motors, only the first gen SBC motors. So that simplifies your choice to the JCI kit. Everyone who has the JCI kit seems happy with it, so hard to go wrong there.
People have posted corner weights on their JCI LS Z's. The weight distribution is good, if anything it has a slight rear weight bias (3/4 of the driver's weight ends up on the rear wheels).
You can use either the JTR or JCI trans mount with either kit. It might even work with the Lexus motor too. Conventional wisdom says to get the JTR headers and not the JCI ones. Either way buy the JTR manual. Even though it doesn't cover LS swaps, it has a ton of useful info for any type of engine swap.
I am putting in a carb'd LS2 motor with a TKO instead of the T56 trans. The shorter trans and taller carb meant I had to build my own mounts to get everything to just fit. That of course meant a custom alternator set up. All of that took a fair amount of time to figure out and much trial and error to get right.
Do yourself a huge favor and unless you are the type that has knocked off dozens of engine swaps in a weekend or a hard core racer who just has to have that last little bit of weight distribution, get the JCI kit and spend your time enjoying the car rather than thinking about all the different ways of installing things.
The Lexus motor would be cool. The JTR manual shows a Lexus swap in a Z. They do mention how much work and money it was compared to a SBC swap.
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Maybe that first set is just trying to be compatible with this rule that JohnC posted
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=128893&highlight=subframe
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The choke on my 70 240 was really hard to operate until I rebuilt the cables and the pivot part. Just pulled the cable out of the sheath, cleaned and smoothed it with some fine emory paper, then greased it (no WD40 here) and reinstalled it.
Slick as snot now.
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Here is a pic of my mount. I don't have the lines in at the moment, but I didn't think there was going to be an issue with clearance.
The car is a 1970 model
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Yeah, restore some order and thanks for serving.
LS Alternator Only Mounting
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Posted
Yeah, just check out their street rod set up. Will put the alternator in the truck position.