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87pyro3

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Posts posted by 87pyro3

  1. the object being a supercharger l28 stroker  running megasquirt.

     

    so im researching everyhting. to do it right the first time around. eliminating the need to buy mulitple intakes, injectors and countless hrs on a dyno to only find out to trash a setup and start again

  2. Befor everyone bashes and banters     i searched 

    most if not all the post and topics have insificent coverage or died.

     

    where would be the optimal location of the injector bungs on the ld28 ontake, to take advantage of the longer runners?

    three locations come to mind.

    1. up against the flange

    2. at the end of the runners below the the pelenium

    3. mounted at the begining of the runners  spraying down from ontop of the second flange

     

     

     

    If i missed a post that went into detail  please just point me in the right direction and remove the post

  3. Here's a few questions I have about the 23250 45011 Toyota injector. I have a '77 280 that is all original as far as the engine goes. It still has the original injectors which I want to get away from for two reasons:

     

    1. #2 cylinder injector is acting up and causes that cylinder to misfire intermittenly (when I disconnect the injector clip the misfire is steady.)

     

    2. Injectors are orignal; so the rubber is showing it's 30yr age plus getting rid of the boomerang fuel rail and hose splices between the halves would be a safety improvement.

     

    I did as much research on the web as I could, and was unable to find the opening and closing time for the Toyota injector. So my questions; to clarify Pallnet's info.

    Will this injector work with the original Z ecm?

     

    Is the injector open/close time critical for this setup?(I know that you guys running stand alone ecm's have to put the time in as a parameter for the injectors to function)

     

    Also, due to the difference in flow/pressure between the stock injector and the Toyota one, will I need an adjustable FPR to get the 190cc/min flow out of the new injector?

     

    Will the stock pump handle the raise in pressure?

     

    So, Can I use the 23250 45011 Toyota injector that Pallnet listed?

    I appreciate the help, from the reading I did it looks like it will work. The injector cycle time and the fuel pressure differences are what left me unsure. I Don't really want stock injectors when I could convert over to a better safer setup for roughly the same price. Thanks everyone.

     

     

    Has Any1 Figured this post out    im very interested in updateing my older injectors.

  4. By no means am i a NEWB. lol but nice coin phrase anyway.

    I tend to lurk Alot on many many diffrent forums very seldum do i ever talk or post alot.

     

    I understand engine blueprinting, tolerences and when and where not to do something. Aside from a Turbo aplication the equation for need is less revelent. With NA builds and supercharged builds, Heat can b released more freely by other means. On another note why not run water/meth injectioning to lower temps at the pistion? ( i could b wrong by no means am i acting on fact ) BY cooling the oil down further, the splash ( scattered oil from spinning crank and rods ) would further reduce heat on the pistions aswell. So why the added oil jet treatment to the underdome of the pistions? Is the risk of a faulty jet or instalation worth the risk of the whole engine?

     

     

    But if this arises to be a better than not ( nessary evil ). The question then arises that would the added heat to the oil ( from the pistions ) need further cooling.

    As stated Before its all a balancing game when building an engine. So can it be one without the other or should they both be combined?

  5. I have ben reading and following this particular thread with some real interest. There is only 1 thing that pops into my mind over and over again. Why so much time and money into a "possibility" of this truly working without major modding nessary? To me refineing air flow, OIL flow/cooling, and water temps, would accomidate colder temps across the board. Why the main concern for pistions?

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