Rod in NC

well, my file didn't download, so email me if you want a copy of it. -Rod ncrayls@bellsouth.net

We'll, I can't get the ZIP file to attach...just email me if you want me to email a copy to you. Thanks. -Rod ncrayls@bellsouth.net

I have attached a very clean jpeg file in a zip file....24MB, so it may take a while to download. But you can zoom in and it is very easy to read. I too have plotted this on a 3' x 4' sheet and posted on my wall. Hopefully you all can download this. This is for a 74 260Z. -Rod

Thanks, John. I just sent you an email with my contact info. I'll wait to hear back from you to confirm the swap. -Rod

Well, I removed the straps, and really didn't gain much additional stroke at the slave cylinder (still about 7/16" stroke). It still looks like I have about another 3/4" stroke available in the slave cylinder, so I am hoping that upgrading to the 7/8" bore master cylinder will get me the extra travel at the slave that I need. I did some more calculating and with the 3/4" bore and 1.1" stroke of the master cylinder...I should see about 5/8" stroke on the 1" bore slave. With the 7/8" bore I should see about another 1/4" stroke. I also need to make sure I am getting full travel out of my master cylinder as well. thanks. -Rod

JT1, thanks for the feedback. The slave is mounted in the 'what I think is correct' position (mounted to the forward side of the flange on the transmission. It is a plastic slave cylinder, with molded in ribs that would not let me mount it on the back side of the flange. I am going to try and put some washers between the rod and the release arm, and keep adding washers until I determine how much more stroke is needed to engage the clutch. While under the car, I removed the boot from the slave cylinder. It looks like I have about another 1/2" of travel in that cylinder after the clutch pedal is all the way depressed. It sure looks like the retaining straps on the slave rod are restricting its full travel, but I am not going to cut those at it appears they also keep the rod 'centered' during travel. I may get creative tomorrow and see if I can mount the cylinder on the back side of the transmission flange if adding washers is successful. Thanks for the offer on the 7/8" master swap. I still want to go to the 7/8" bore, because the 3/4" bore I have does seem a bit soft. I've attached a PDF pic of the slave cylinder in the normal state. Note that there is not much play left in the retaining straps. -Rod 100_2792.pdf

further info....with the master cylinder bleeder cracked open, I can depress the slave cylinder piston a good 3/4" back into the cylinder. Does anyone have the actual overall stroke of the camaro slave cylinder? It appears that when I then release the slave cylinder piston back against the arm coming out of the transmission, there isn't very much stroke left, even if I did get a bigger master cylinder. Could someone get a dimension for me from the tip of their release arm to the front surface of the flange that the slave cylinder mounts to? Thanks. -Rod

1974 260Z with 350 sbc and t5 5-speed.... Ok, I'm about ready to take out my 3/4" bore Tilton master cylinder and buy an 7/8" bore one, but wanted to run this past everybody first. With the system bled, I get about 3/8" stroke on the camaro slave piston when the clutch petal is fully depressed. Clutch does not engage, and it appears that the 'retaining' straps on the slave cylinder won't stretch any further. If I upgrade to a 7/8" bore master cylinder, I should get some more stroke out of the slave cylinder piston, but has anybody had an issue with the 'retaining' straps on the slave cylinder piston actually restricting the piston's stroke? I don't want to take out the pedal stop or cut the retaining straps to potentially get the clutch to engage. Any input before I go ahead and buy the 7/8" bore? On the other posts it appears the 15/16" bore master is too stiff. Thanks for any input. -Rod

Ok, I think the motor might be fine. I think the power going to it is in question. I bought the car that had been sitting in a garage for about 8 years, no engine. I've been slowing putting everything back in the car, and the wiring was the previous owner's hack job at converting it for a v8. I have not yet purchased an automobile battery, and have been using a rechargeable 14.4V portable drill battery as a power source to check all the electrical circuits. I've gotten everything to work, including headlights, heater motor, horn, etc. I'm thinking that the little battery will allow me to check 12V through the electrical system, but doesn't have enough 'umph' to kick on the wiper motor. I'm going to take the battery out of my daily driver this weekend and hook it up to see if that will drive the wiper motor. If that doesn't do it, I'll go with the Honda Accord wiper motor upgrade. Thanks again for any input. -Rod

Ok, I'm trying to determine if my wiper motor is shot or not on my 74 260z. I've got the the intermittant style switch on my steering column. I can hear the relay's clicking when I turn the wiper switch, and when I push the washer pump button. Putting my ear close to the wiper motor itself, I can hear small clicks like it is trying to move. Fuse is ok as well. I've got power out to the motor, so I'm thinking the motor is bad. I have since removed the wiper motor from the car and have it on my workbench. I have removed the wiper arm linkage. I am thinking the motor is locked up, but is there a good bench test to try? Should I be able to rotate the stud on the motor that holds the wiper linkage? Right now I can't rotate it, and I don't want to force it. The car had been sitting for several years when I got it, so I'm not sure if the wipers ever worked or not. Any suggestions welcome. If it is fried, I may look into the Honda wiper motor upgrade. I'd just like to know for sure before I go buy a new wiper motor. Thanks, guys. -Rod

Yea, it was the one in the engine bay, and it's gone now. I've cleaned up most of my wires now, and yes there is a pile of wires left over. I'm keeping the fusible link and the shunt for now. All the interlocks are gone. Now I'm playing with the Mallory Hyfire ignition and unilite distributor hookup. Thanks. -Rod

As I slowly decipher my wiring diagram and eliminate the 'extra' wires on my 74 260Z harness, I am now on what the schematic calls an 'emergency switch' with a little red plunger button on it that says 'push'. I plan on getting rid of this as I continue to weed out the wires, but I was just curious what was this originally intended for? I assume this was the factory's version of a kill switch or disabler switch....any feedback? Thanks. -Rod

Mark, I'm straight up I-85 from Charlotte in Salisbury. -Rod Larry, apparently you had no issues using the -3AN hose rather than the larger -4 AN hose listed in the JTR manual. Your install sounds the simplest, and Summit Racing has all the fittings (including the 90 degree ends on the hose) for the -3AN setup. The engine and tranny are going in the car today (YEA!), and then I will confirm the hose length need to hook up the slave to the master. Thanks again. -Rod

Thanks so much! I'll look up that adapter fitting and order with the other stuff. -Rod

Per the JTR manual, I purchased the 3/4" bore Tilton master cylinder, and it has a -3AN port on it for the hose going to the slave cylinder. On the previous page in the JTR manual, it says to also purchase the McLeod hose fitting (p/n 139026) for the Camaro slave cylinder, which is a male -4AN fitting. And it says to buy a 24" long -4AN steelbraided hose. My question is, do I need to buy a -4AN to -3AN male/male adapter so that my -4AN hose will go into the -3AN port in the Tilton master cylinder? Or is the -AN nomenclature just for the hose diameter, and the fittings on the end of a -3AN and a -4AN hose are the same thread? Any clarification on the -AN sizing would be helpful. I'd like to buy the hose, the McLeod fitting, and any adapter fitting (if needed) all at the same time from Summit Racing. Thanks for any help, and MERRY CHRISTMAS from NC. -Rod

Dragonfly, thanks for the feedback. I was mainly worried about frying the sending unit if I hooked it up backwards. I will hook up the wires and reverse them if I miss it on the first try. -Rod

Ok, after looking closer at the sending unit, there is a 'G' next to the stud with the 'collar' around it, and an 'E' next to the stud that is mounted directly to the face of the sending unit. Any guesses on which wire goes on which post? It would be too easy to assume that 'G' is for ground, but I would like confirmation before I hook up the wires. If anybody is under their car this weekend, please take a peek at the sending unit and see which wires are hooked up to which stud on the sending unit. Thanks. -Rod

My 1974 260Z project car came without a fuel tank. Now that I have the fuel tank in place with the sending unit installed, I need to know which stud to hook the yellow and the black wires to on the sending unit. My guess is to hook the black wire to the stud that is on the face of the sending unit (ground), and hook the yellow wire to the stud that has a 'collar' around it. Can someone confirm which wire goes to which stud so I don't install the wires backwards? Thanks. -Rod

I'm putting new tie rods and boots on my 1974 260Z rack and pinion...when I pulled off the old boots...I'm not sure what that substance is! Looks like a mix between black oil and grease. Haynes manual doesn't say what or how much to put in the new boots. I'm thinking regular wheel bearing grease is too thick. My MGB uses motor oil in the rack and pinion chamber, but I wanted to see what every one is using on the Z. THanks. -Rod

Dang, I could have saved a few bucks. Got mine for $8 each today from the local Tokico dealer. -Rod I'm now interested in how the springs look when I re-install the front suspension...hopefully not the same condition noted in the sticky warning post on the main page. -Rod ---------------- 74 1/2 260Z, gutted and ready for JTR 350 sbc.

I called Tokico this morning, and apparently I have the larger diameter strut tower. My manufacturing date on my 74 260 was 7/74, which is right on the bubble of when Datsun switched to the larger diameter tower. Anyway, according to Tokico, the small gland nut is a 48mm x 1.5, and I need the larger 52mm x 1.5 gland nut. Unfortunately, no freebies...they directed me to the local dealer in my area to order some. Thanks for all your help..-Rod

There is about 1/8" all the way around between the Tokico strut and the inside of the strut tower. The top of the strut housing is pretty much flush with the top of the strut tower. Sounds like I have the gland nuts for the early 240/260, and need them for the later 260/280 cars. Second question...the instructions say to fill the cavity between the strut and the tower with a 'light' oil for heat dissapation. What oil do you guys recommend. When I took apart the 30 year old original strut, it smelled more like gear oil than motor oil. Thanks again...Happy Memorial Day. -Rod

Thanks for the prompt response...sounds like I've got the gland nuts for the smaller 240Z and need the larger 280Z ones. My 260 must be right in the middle of when they switched strut diameters...I'll give Tokico a call on Tuesday (I doubt that they're open Memorial Day). I'd like to confirm your last statment, though. My understanding is the gland nut 'slides' over the strut and screws into the strut tower. Are you saying that the gland nut actually screws onto the Tokico strut, because there are no threads on the top of the Tokico strut housing. Thanks again. -Rod

Hi guys.... I just bought a 74 260z (vin 041118), and included with the purchase was a complete set of Tokico struts and springs (new and still in the box). I've seen the warning post, but wanted to see how they fit-up anyway. I dismantled the front strut assembly and inserted the new BZ3015 Tokico strut into the strut housing. When I went to install the Tokico large nut (I think it's called the gland nut), the nut's thread diameter was too small (47mm dia) for the strut tower's mating thread (50mm dia). My 260Z is an early 260z (pre-1974 1/2) which calls for the BZ3015 strut. However, I noticed that the later 260Z and 280Z get a different Tokico front strut (BZ3012). I know there are a lot of guys with this Tokico set up, I'm just wondering if anyone has run into this nut installation problem. Is the strut tower diameter different from early Z's to late Z's? I'm hoping that all I need to do is some how get a different Tokico gland nut (the one for the later model Z's), as the original Datsun gland nut doesn't work with the Tokico strut. I can't return the struts/springs due to no receipt, so I'm hoping this is a simple fix. Any suggestions or comments welcome. I was going to contact Tokico on Tuesday, but wanted to hear what you guys had to say. Thanks. -Rod ----------------- 1974 260Z, gutted and awaiting JTR 350 SBC conversion.

jknc90...I'm in Salisbury...I just bought the car last weekend from a guy near you in Cary off of ten-ten road. -Rod