sotaorava

well not really found it yet... but everything checks out and are in specs so only possibility is that my starters have seen better days...putting it back together now with new hd starter that have gear reduction.

hhmm found that there are 2 different size rings for KA24 pistons oil ring height at 2.5mm and 2.8mm

bit more update... bore is straight no taper...rods are oil hole in sparkplug side should be ok? tryied with plenty off redline assebly paste to bore and piston no difference could it be that oil ring is causing this...when you look at the KA24 oil rings when you install thin rings both side of the "oil ring" they wont go deep enough to the piston anymore??

not atm but there were no difference in turning when i took the head of.

i was using normal engine oil for assembly would assembly lube make so much difference? you can turn the bottom end in the stand from the crank if you take VERY good grip with two hands...but its way more hard than my complete old l24 with plugs in

Ok update i took piston rings off and put pistons and conrods back and torquet everything to spec...smooth and easy to turn piston ring cap is ok tho upper about 0.45 to 0.5mm second about 0.55 to 0.6mm dont understand how they could cause so much frigtion that my old l24 is easier to turn even with head and plugs in

transmission should be ok...gear was free when tested. i believe problem was conrod bearings all should have been standart but there was some quality and size differences between the bearings

ok piston ring cap is ok little bit higher than that but atleast they are not causing the problem...

how much is good piston ring cap? i found in one build that top ring should be 0,44mm and second ring 0,36mm is that ok?

ok engine is off and pistons are off you can turn the crank quite easily by two fingers...so i believe main bearings are ok i didnt find any markings from conrod bearings and they look good

only thing i can think of is that i accidentally put oversize bearings in... could that make it turning hard?

alternator was upgraded before i swapped the engine was running good with my old l24 yeah wires getting hot would succest bad wiring or connection but main wires and connectors are new and i am running/testing starter directly from battery not by key... it turns like there is no power but battery is full 12.8v and tested another good battery also even with jumper cables so these should be enough power to turn the engine

Hi I tryied to find topics for this problem and found few but they did not help me... i have very hard time to crank the engine tryied 2 different batterys and 2 starters ground and + should be ok even plugs of engine turns hardly and + wire and starter gets very hot after trying. engine has never run just fresh rebuild n42 block 89mm bore 240sx pistons n42 head 1.2mm metal gasket is there any possibility that my timing chain could be to short i remember that it was very difficult to but on and that causes to much frigtion? bore is to tight? that means i have to take engine of can somesort head problems cause this??

just checked my r200 it is open diff with finned cover... still needing that curved crossmember

yes its just like that... dont know if cars that came to finland had different equipment?

my r200 from 280zx maybe 1981 or 1982 has finned rear cover

yes still needing that curved crossmember + r200 front support not sure if r200 is little bit stiffer than my r180 but thats what i read from some forum. will this curved crossmember fit to finned rear cover? ive read that there are few different r200 rear covers?

i allready have mustache bar

parts needed to complete my r200 install to -70 240z -rear crossmember that is curved to fit r200 -r200 front support i can pay with paypal parts needed to ship paypal verified address to finland thank you

thanks for the info

yeah my thoughts exatly that cam come with my head i think i keep that one and put the motor in and when i have more money i send my other head for total rebuilt with custom cam... hope to get 200hp from motor with this setup lets see

i get my hands on schneider stage 1 camshaft intake .460 lift duration 260 .310 camlift dur at .050 camlift 220 exhaust .460 lift duration 260 .310 camlift dur at .050 camlift 220 planning on putting this to my stroker with 10.8 comp mild head cleaning not looking for max power just good allrounder is this cam ok?

my 8 month project is allmoust complete just minor adjustments

they are just pressure fit right? so you can push them out?

have you removed valve guides or just grinded around them?