maichor
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Posts posted by maichor
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After reading up a bit on the R230 and R200V I guess what I saw at the salvage yard was one R230 and two R200V's. I had them laid out next to each other and I swear they were identical. They definitely use the same casing. Same #'s and everything. Even the little orange Viscous LSD were the same on all of them. I will try to find a 240SX tomorrow and take some measurements to see about that swap.
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I asked about this in the suspension forum. I am looking at the R230 swap and ran accross some J30's at the yard. I will have a VR kit which gives me fender room. I am exploring the possibility of swapping the R230 and the whole J30 IRS. 5 lug hubs, tougher stubs, bigger brakes, but a lot of time, work and brain cramps.
See it here. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=7175
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I spent about an hour and a half at the yards today. I came across 3 R230's with VLSD. One was out of a Q45, but two were from J30's a 1992 and a 1999. I have been reading old posts on the 230 because I want a limited slip and a tough diff. I was looking at the half shafts from the J30 which are shorter than the Q45 shafts.
1) Do I need 300ZX shafts for the swap or since I am shortening thing anyway, should I pick up the set from the J30?
2) I did a lot of measuring and I think, with a little tweaking, the whole J30 IRS could be swapped into my 240Z.
Anyone else looked at this?
The J30 setup is ~61" flange to flange. The strut/spring location is a little rearward of the 240Z but I think it could be relocated easily. the forwardmost extension of the J30 subframe would need to be cut off, but it is not necessary.
3) One of the J30's, I believe it was the 1999, had what looked to be rear wheel steer! Cool but not necessary. Did they all come that way, or do some have a solid rear bar to tweak the toe like on the C4 Vettes?
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Thanks for the good info. I have seen a few service manuals on eBay. Which one did you get? There is a PDF cd rom one with exploded views and part #'s but I don't think it has step by step stuff. I have also seen an engine service manual for LS1, none of the sellers can tell me if there are wiring diagrams etc. I don't have the Helm's either. The car budget is tight, especially when you try to explain to the wife why you need a $120 book to figure out wiring when she knows you did another vehicle with a 12$ Haynes!
Again, thanks for the info.
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I think I will just lay the whole thing out on the garage floor plug in the stuff I have and see what happens. I still need some Radiator hoses, a belt and some other little odds and ends.
The good news is that I am ready to paint the engine bay. Once I have the electrical stuff worked out, the motor is going in for the last time! Knock on wood!
Cyrus, didn't you keep the body control module hooked up for the VATS. I figure if I leave that in with the Camaro column and key that it should work without anything else. No???
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I am wiring up the LS1/t-56 now. Jeromio, I know you used Speartech. Cyrus did it all himself and Lonestar1 just had the engine harness.
So, here is my situation. I have the Camaro tank, column, and gauges in the car. That stuff is all plug & play. But, the motor was from a 2001 WS6 and has body control module, ABS, radio, power everything, and the anti theft stuff. Since I have the column and the key, I won't have to deal with the VATS.
My questions are:
What should I keep in the wiring?
What about the clutch depressed switch and the other stuff on the pedals?
What do they do?
There are also two switches on the brakes. What are they?
One is for the brake lights and the other?
Thanks for your help.
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S&P set back plates and JTR Kit? Don't count on it! I looked into it and it has accessory clearance issues an would be more trouble than buying the stock Corvette mounts from S&P or anywhere else. Plus the JTR setup with S&P set back plates would mean bolting a setback plate to a setback plate, which really increases leverage on the block and Datsun mounting towers. Mounting an LS6 will be the same as an LS1. The pan and motor mounts are different, but you will have to make, or get special mounts anyway. Cyrus used the same mounts that come on the LS6. John's cars uses Camaro mounts. It looks good so far. I got a peek at it. Phantom can tell you more. At this point his conversion is also a one off. John has not started selling kits.Originally posted by Mike C:I think it is Street & Peformance who offers a motormount adapter to put a Gen III LS motor onto stock GM mounts. With that setup, you should possibly be able to use the JTR setback plates. S&P makes nice stuff, but nothing cheap, so be forewarned. The John's Cars deal might be better since you know it'll work and he's got exhaust.
If you get the stock mounts with the LS6, you can just do what cyrus did, or wait for kit. Search this forum for LS1 stuff.
I have some of my pics and 2 pics from Cyrus here
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Wow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Every time you fellow LS1 guys post, I start drooling and dream of the day when I finish my car. (Velo Rossa Spyder Kit with a 2001 LS1/T56.)
Cyrus, do you have any other mods? How is your exhaust set up, ported throttle body etc.?
My LS1 already has the LS6 style intake, good for a few ponies I guess. I have headers and a nice open exhaust. My car will have a fiberglass hood, fiberglass hard top etc. But, I have added about 100 lbs. of steel reinforcements to the body so. . .
Anyway, CONGRATS! You flew, not only at the track, but through your conversion. Awesome!
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You said you were going to the track tomorrow? That's today! So . . . . . . What was your time?
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Here is another retro revival by Shelby.
This is from www.shelbyamerican.com
I'm no designer and I'm no artist. So . . . my 2 cents.
John, I love the Velo Rossa because it looks classic. Here are a few of the styling pros in my opinion.
1) Wide stance in the rear. To me this means more meat to the street, not to mention it just looks fast.
2) Vents behind the wheel suggest racing, the lower oval is classic.
If you are talking about a new car, I would try to keep some of the "womanly" curves and mix in some attitude.
The huge front oval of the Cobra looks mean. Same with hood scoops.
Most of all, I would like to see the vents as functional, Like the C5 Corvette brake coolant vents and rear tray etc. Take a look a Terry Oxandale's work if you haven't yet. He has done some cool stuff with his car.
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I have a '72 240Z as well. The LS1 sits back as far as I could get it and the shifter lines up nicely. So, like Jeromio and Phantom say, getting the shifter of a T-56 to line up depends on the year of your Z. I think that the engine placement in Phantom's car would be a lot more work for me because I am using Power steering. I have worked out my problems with the swap. So, in my case there is no going back.
Phantom,
I still would love to check out your setup. Maybe when we get back from our Thanksgibing trip, I could give you a ring?
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When it comes time for the drive shaft, your best bet locally will probably be Six States Distributors in Orem. They can do just about anything you want. They are a favorite for all of the custom 4X4 stuff in the area. Here in Texas we have sold the our 2 Jeeps and moved to a Z project. Still, I will probably get my shaft from them when I visit my brother's family at Christmas. They do excellent work and are masters at balancing the shaft. They are also very cool. If there is something wrong with the shaft they make for you, they fix it and rebalance at no charge.
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Wow! I'm interested to see what that would look like.
I'm not familiar with the Origin top. Any pics?
It would be nice to get a hardtop for the VR. I thought John had a hardtop mold. Is that gone with the rest of the stuff. It might be cheaper than making a new mold.
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Cyrus!
You used the Body control module? Does that mean you found a way to use the ABS sensors, 2 in front, 1 in the rear to get the wheel spin values etc. I have all the WS6 Trans Am donor stuff too, but I couldn't see how to use the sensors and ABS pump with the Datsun stuff.
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Two months is better than 2 years! Way to go! Isn't it a blast building it yourself?
I have two friends that just bought C5 vettes. One is a Z06 clone with goodies like a Spec stage 4 ceramic coated clutch, cam, heads, Nittos, blah blah blah.
I am so jealous. However, the ride was nearly like my ride in Lone Star 1's LS1 Z! BUILD THE DREAM!
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Wow!
I was thinking about doing the same thing! However, I don't have the guts either. I am putting and LS1 into a Velo Rossa from John Washington. I wanted to know if the Corvette stuff would fit. It looks like it might, but I think the widebody kit is much wider in the front than the Velo Rossa.
Maybe I should just drop in the Vette rear end?
Good luck guys!
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OUCH, DOUBLE OUCH$$$$$!!!! I was under the impression from Jason that his guy could do it for about $500, but that doesn't include coating. If it really does cost that much, I would seriously consider changing the steering. I was looking at the Borgeson stuff. With the odds and ends I picked up with my Ford PS rack, it will only cost ~$200 to add another joint to the shaft and a heim to hold the shaft to the frame and out of the way. Just a thought.
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A) 6" when hanging the angle over the frame, 3" bolting below.
1 3/4"C) 1 3/16"
D) 3 3/4" Passenger's Side and 4 1/4" Drivers Side
E) 17"
I used C channel so as not to accumulate water in tubing. My setup is overkill. I used 3/16" mild steel for the angles on the sides. On my setup the center cross member unbolts so I can drop the pan without removing the whole thing. I used 1/4" X 4" X 1 3/4" C channel. I welded lateral supports onto the angles and then welded the new cross member to the old one to prevent forward/rearward motion.
I could drop the car off a cliff and I think the mount would be the only thing left. I think 3/16" is plenty beefy. I wouldn't trust 1/8" stuff. Have at it!
<img border="0" alt="[2thumbs]" title="" src="graemlins/2thumbs.gif" /> http://www.geocities.com/maichor75104
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Hey Phantom,
Since you are local, there is a guy that will do custom headers reasonably priced. The benefit is that he can work with the car, instead of shipping parts back and forth. I have his number that I will not post here but I will email. If you use him, tell me if you like him. I am thinking of doing long tubes. Then you can send them off to a coating company.
By the way, S&P has be very accommodating.
However, they say they will alter their headers to make them fit, but I am on my 3rd set also. The ones you saw on my car worked before the coated them. They were a tacked set. When I got them back, they didn't fit. I am giving them one last shot because their headers are beautiful and reasonably priced.
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I went with the 1" X 4" because I am adding more than a cosmetic roll bar. Also, I will start off with 320 HP and will eventaully go over 400. I don't want to twist up like a pretzel and ruin the body work. I suppose that if you are keeping the stock Z setup, either reinforcement option would be fine.Originally posted by Teo - Boatbum:1. There are 2 styles of reinforcement on the VR - the older style runs 1x4 along the frame rail horizontally with a diagonal tied to that and the rear strut tower. The newer style ties a diagonal to the rear strut tower down to a small plate welded to the frame rail without the horizontals. - any experiences either way?
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I had a blast cutting the top off my Z as well. It is pure testosterone!
!!!CAUTION!!! Even if the car is solid with the roof off, make sure it is totally supported underneath the floor plans before you weld. This is a step mentioned in the VR installation guide that I mentioned to the guy that welded my supports. He didn't listen. Now, with body sag welded into place, I have to rehang the doors.
I was a bit miffed, but he practically did it for free, so I bit my tongue. Heat warps metal and welds shrink. So does the hot tubing you weld.
Needless to say, I bought a MIG welder and have learned to do my own welding. I have since welded custom motor mounts, custom power steering mounts, and a custom frame for my camaro fuel tank since I am putting in an LS1.
Good luck, I am sure your project will be finished a lot sooner than mine. I just hope John Washington gets his tooling back by the time I have the rest of my mechanical done. I still need the front clip, door panels, and cheek panels.
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I got the money.
I will ship Tuesday because of the holiday. I hope you have the day off.
Thanks!
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Check your email.
I did not sell. I replied and sent a money request to tscott_56@hotmail.com through Paypal. If that is the wrong email, maybe that is why we lost contact. Let me know if you still want the manual.
After reading up a bit on the R230 and R200V I guess what I saw at the salvage yard was one R230 and two R200V's. I had them laid out next to each other and I swear they were identical. They definitely use the same casing. Same #'s and everything. Even the little orange Viscous LSD were the same on all of them. I will try to find a 240SX tomorrow and take some measurements to see about that swap. 
I think I will just lay the whole thing out on the garage floor plug in the stuff I have and see what happens. I still need some Radiator hoses, a belt and some other little odds and ends.
1 3/4"
!!!CAUTION!!! 
Rear Suspension swap
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted