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Well it has been running good for a couple of weeks. Now I'm going to do the VE live every time I drive the car and see how it ends up. Then I'll install the stepper idle valve to smooth the fan coming on.

I have a set of matched 330cc injectors, but I think they might be too big for NA. Does 150hp at 6000rpm and 150lbs-ft torque at 4000 rpm sound about right for the VE table generator?

Actually, when I fixed the engine size from 1753cc to 2800cc and re-did the fuel calculation, the required fuel went up to 16.9ms. I have tiny injectors (stock ones,185cc I think). So they should be open longer vs 440cc injectors. Should I generate a VE table or just use the one that came "in the box" ?

Finally I got the car to idle. For some reason I had the engine size as 1753cc's. One question, When I use the VE analyzer live it throws the idle out of whack, it starts bouncing up and down. Is that normal?

Nobody's map straight out of the box per say. I did see the fuel load gauge drop as the engine started. I'm using the stock injectors, want to get it running before I put the other ones I got. I did the required fuel calculation in tuner studio and it came as 10.6 ms.

I got some photos. Car still doing the same thing, starts and dies. It didn't matter if I used the coolant sensor or the thermo-time. One thing I noticed was when I didn't have the map sensor hooked to the manifold, the engine stayed running, but it was pig rich on the wideband (9.5 AFR) and really low rpm. once I hooked the hose to the manifold and tried again, no luck starts and then just dies.

For the Edis wheel. I had a machine shop shave a bit behind the pulley for a press fit. for the coils I made a bracket out of 90 degree angle aluminum, and a 2 inch wide aluminum piece of metal, Ill take some pics later.

Well I feel like a dumb ass. After I decided to put the old fuel injection system back on, car wouldn't run right. What the hell?...... Spark plugs were fouled. Understandable, I was trying to start it for a whole week, no problem I took them out and cleaned them. Put the plugs back in, then car still wouldn't want to run right. Here is the dumb part, I was using the thermotime switch instead of the coolant sensor. Swapped that and then the car ran like a champ. So now next weekend ill try the megasquirt again this time with the right sensor. The thing is that the temperatures were like 5 degrees off, between the GM IAT and the thermotime switch. That's why I didn't think twice about checking the coolant sensor.

Fuel pressure is good, the pump primes to 42 psi when I first turn the key to on then as the car pulls vacuum on start, it lowers to 36, then the car dies, I bought the ms3x from DIYAutotune, already built. Im using the stock coolant temp already calibrated, and a GM IAT sensor. The car starts strong, better than before when it had the stock Bosch fuel injection, but then it just dies. If I open the throttle it goes up and down from 300ish rpm to like 2200ish rpm, if I close the throttle it dies.

Hello everybody, I can not get this thing to stay running, I guess a little info will be good. I have a l28 with stock injectors (185cc I believe), a 240sx throttle body, ls2 Yukon coils in waste spark configuration, using a 36-1 wheel from an edis car, MS3x with the relay board. and just to see if it made a difference I installed the stepper idle valve, car starts then in like a second it dies, I have been at it for a week straight and cant get it to stay on. does any body have some guidance for this poor soul that wants to have this 240z running ? Thanks for your help in advance.