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No idea.. I haven't driven the car yet. I am just finishing the project. Original booster was shot so I got one from a junkyard but I haven't tested it yet. Aren't 240z boosters only smaller in diameter but are the same height?

Thank you everyone for your input. I'm not very familiar with braking system. I installed all new hard lines, they are larger in diameter than stock. I think I'll stick with stock brakes for now.. maybe just a rear disc conversion. Also after reinstalling my brake booster I noticed that I it's touching my custom downpipe. Are there any smaller booster available for out cars or would it be easier to just bend the downpipe slightly?

Wouldn't wide wheels help shorten braking distance? Also wouldn't wider rear tires help offset brake bias further back? Besides larger caliper should help with brake fade. Maybe for now I'll just do rear disc conversion and leave stock front calipers. Maybe i'll just get drilled front rotors to help with cooling. Right now I should be close to 220hp at the crank. Once I get bigger injectors and ECU I'm planning to get to at least 300, so I would want to have bigger brakes at that point.

Thanks, I am leaning more towards 280zx rear brakes as well. 12+8 will definitely offset bias towards the front and I don't know of any good ways to correct it. Maybe if I run wider wheels in the back? I don't really plan on racing the car too much, maybe a track day every 2-3 months. At least for now.

Thanks for the info Miles. I am on a budget so I am not looking for a high performance brake setup. Just something a bit better than stock. I am currently working on my suspension, tokico springs and struts and poly bushings. So i wanted to finish my brakes while I'm at it.

I am trying to decide between Maxima calipers and z31 rotors or a 280zx rear setup. I am planning to run s12+8 brakes with drilled rotors in the front. Which setup would be cheaper and easier to do? How would each conversion affect brake bias?

I decided to use an empty Q45 fuse box to hold my relays and fusible links. Fuse and relay holders can be unclipped and removed. I only needed a relay holder and 2 fusible link holders.

Since stock crossover pipe was right next to stock 280z brake lines I had to reroute them. Bought a roll of brake line and rerouted all of the brake lines in the engine bay, including clutch line. Put the brake booster and downpipe back on only to realize that downpipe is touching the brake booster... I guess the brake booster I got at the junkyard is either slightly larger or shaped differently than the stock brake booster.

Close up pictures of my downpipe and modified turbo relocation pipe: Also got this new Direct NOS injection setup

Thanks! I guess I'll try it and see if it works or not

Does anyone know the ohm ranges of z31 and 280z temperature gauge sensors? Trying to figure out if I can use z31 sensor with 280z gauge.

Well it's been a while. I couldn't work on my z for over a month but now I'm finally back at it. No major updates, just started to organize and clean up engine bay. Tested WG actuator, which is a stock z31 actuator modified to fit, for some reason it starts to open at 10psi and fully opens at 14. I guess the spring was damaged by heat when we welded the rod.

Test fitted a new radiator:

Just checked, they want $60 for a new one.

Does anyone know if I have to use original z31 turbo fpr or would any vg30 fpr work? Or are there any other options for a junkyard FPR?

Thanks! Haha I wouldn't have time nor resources for that.. Plus where is the fun in a bolt on swap kit that doesn't require any serious work?? Hm I'm using the same transmission with stock 280z crossmember. I guess I need to find a 4 speed driveshaft. Either that or pay $300 for a custom one.

Thanks. But hey at least your car is complete and drivable and there are lots of VGs at junkyards. I still have a lot of work to do just to be able to drive it. Engine should be in about the same position since we both used stock mounts to mount it. Basically I just have 2 brackets that connect stock engine mounts to mounts on cross member. I'm still trying to find a drive shaft that would fit my car since my stock 5 speed shaft was too long. Transmission is 25.3 inches away from differential.

Managed to get it running today. Runs a bit rough but should run better when I fix all the vacuum lines. Only problem so far is sometimes it hesitates when I open the throttle and sometimes dies after I close it. Also found out my FPR is bad. Running open downpipe

Will probably have to change some of the piping later to make it more efficient but this should work for now.

Yeah I'm too deep into it to quit now, It's been almost year now. Wiring was probably the most difficult part of this project but it seems to be working. You just have to follow the diagram. All you really need is s30 wiring diagram, z31 ignition and charging system diagram and vg30et ECU pinout. Good luck with your project, it'll be worth it in the end.

finishing Intercooler piping that is evo 9 IC btw

If I go with a blow through MAF setup, it'll save me a lot of time since I won't have to worry about intake piping around radiator. If I set my maf sensor on the straight pipe about 6-7 inches away from throttle body and if I thermal wrap my downpipe to prevent heat soak, would it work fine without a tune?

Yes, it's slowly coming together. If only I had more time to work on it.

Test fitted s130 radiator with taurus fan. Seems like it's a little too close to the turbo. Seems like I have 2 options: trim radiator frame and fan shroud to fit a 90 degree elbow for intake, or somehow fit radiator through the hole and tilt it forward. Also finally clocked the turbo, which was a huge pita.