Shock_Strauss

The only cutting I had to do was the original transmission mount and where the shifter comes up through. I tried finding a solution for the shifter to come up through the stock location but failed. I ended up getting a gktech shifter,

Are you using the stock ecu? I'm using Megasquirt pro so it was very easy to get timing from the distributor while using the lq9 coils for ignition. I remember seeing a kit that was being sold for around $600 on ebay but you can do it significantly less. You need 6x lq9 coils, 6x IS 300 coil boots with springs, and 6x gm coil connectors. If you have a gte, you can buy coil brackets from many different sites. The GE on the other hand I believe only has one site that sells a bracket. I'm just going to fabricate one myself.

Thanks, I'm using chevy truck coils with the built in igniter.

Been very busy with finishing up school/work and forgot to update my build thread. I've been slowly finishing up everything. I ended up ditching Microsquirt and went with Megasquirt Pro. This required me to redo the engine harness again. The shifter I ended up using is from gktech which still required me to cut the tunnel unfortunately. I'll also have to modify the center console as well. The rear end was removed, cleaned, painted, and fitted with urethane bushings. I also changed from the stock bottom differential mount to one that attaches from the top. I'm getting it tuned in the next week or two as I plan to go to Cruisin' Ocean City later this month with it. 15x10 295 60r 15

Awesome! I'll be using a Wilwood 7/8 master for my clutch and a custom stainless line connecting to the slave. Look up "clutch master swap / upgrade 280z" on google. Should be the first link showing how he did it. Also what are you using for your shifter?

Did not know this, thanks for the heads up!

Interesting, I think it's probably due to how far back my engine is then. Curious to see how yours comes out. Wasn't able to do much this last weekend due to the rain and probably won't have any major updates in the next two weeks. Started working on attaching the body harness to the bulkhead connector and noticed two wires for the headlights were severely corroded. This might have been one of the reasons I had issues with my headlights. I went ahead and disassembled each of the pins from there housings. Once that was done I submerged them in a vinegar salt mixture for about 15 minutes or so and wire brushed what remained. I then soaked them in water and baking soda to neutralize the vinegar/salt. This procedure has actually been working really well for me.

Thanks for the pictures. Honestly that would be perfect if it was moved up further forward. I believe that's when you start having problems due to the linkage. You don't have it installed in the car yet right? This would be perfect: https://scontent.cdninstagram.com/t51.2885-15/s640x640/e15/12728443_1032323470174624_271092311_n.jpg?ig_cache_key=MTE4NTEzMzc2MzQ1ODAyNDkzMQ%3D%3D.2.l I wonder how they did it? Possibly shortened the rod the linkage attaches too? When I have some free time, I'm going to pull the transmission and take a look what kind of modifications I can do.

Thanks for the suggestion, this was actually one of the relocation kits I was going to buy before I started the swap.

Trust me I have, there's plenty I've seen around the net. Here's a few notable one's I've saved. Club Lexus http://www.mitsustyle.com/photopost/data/656/medium/Shifter_1.jpg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ikMB8Ib1FgY -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- dexter72, was this what you were talking about? http://i.imgur.com/x05pfR5.jpg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6GXd1gtxcCI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQUEbNfvMZQ Supra forums http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk242/97dimedrop/0B57F535-43A5-4524-8BE2-895D6C8C302C_zpsvcivktxi.jpg Welding web http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p245/Acidz1/CLM%20Project%20240sx/Dec%2013th%202010/IMG00098.jpg Hybrid Z VQ Swap (Similar Issue) http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/108450-vq35de-240z-almost-complete/ http://vq240z.weebly.com/uploads/1/1/5/0/11509127/6600838.jpg?698 (My trans looks like its further back) http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc42/tkaminsk/VQ35de%20240z/IMG_2150Large.jpg (The issue I'm trying to prevent) Options for sale----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Serial nine's offering https://i.ytimg.com/vi/Z-0pZXw04r0/maxresdefault.jpg Hoke Performance ( I was actually considering this one before I installed everything) http://hokeperformance.squarespace.com/vq240z-build-blog/shifter-relocation http://static1.squarespace.com/static/53054f3be4b06b3a5cccd136/t/53434998e4b0aa2aaae1e86a/1396918693052/?format=750w (Same issue of cutting) Z Fever http://www.ebay.com/itm/VQ35-Swap-shifter-bracket-for-240Z-/261490739386?nma=true&si=7PIZp1gseTE3y1PtPEjiw04WnD4%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 LOJ Conversions http://loj-conversions-llc.myshopify.com/products/300zx-shortened-shifter-bracket-z32-manual-transmissions There's a few others as well. Sending off your shifter to get it shortened. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- What it looks like with the shiftboot and console in place. Terrible rendition of the location I'm looking for.

I'm going to be running a Wilwood 7/8 master. Type this into Google, "Clutch Master Swap / Upgrade 280z". Should be the first result.

Thanks for the suggestions everyone. The problem with most of the kits I've seen or diy jobs is that they're not short enough. I know there's going to be a limit on how short you can go without extensive modifications like the cbf forward mount. Also to clarify, when I stated I hadn't seen anyone use the 350z trans on a 2jz, I meant specifically on the s30 chassis without cutting the tunnel. Didn't really make that clear on my part. I know the easiest route would be to cut the tunnel but I want to keep everything inside as stock as possible. Anyways, I figure I have a few options: Move the engine and trans forward in the engine bay. (Would have to redo my transmount and I'd rather not have it pushed further forward. Still have to get a shorter bracket or kit.) Cut the shifter opening further back and shorten the bracket myself or buy a kit. ( I want to keep the stock center console in place.) Use one of the cbf shifters. (Pricey/not sure if he's going to make more. $285 mid mount, $380 forward mount when they were on ebay) Drop the transmission and see what I can do. (I have some ideas on how to possibly get the shifter where I want it.) I'm really considering the 4th option and if that doesn't work I'll go with one of the cbf shifters. Any other ideas that might work?

Do you have a picture of this installed in the car? Here's the two options that I think would work: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mYsGvVwlySE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-yB37qPxzXY

Here's what it looks like in my case. Picture of bracket upside down to show about where it would be.

Not sure what kind of number I want to hit. I'm actually more worried about the chassis and rear axles. I'll be putting in a partial roll cage to stiffen up the car as well as a few other things. I don't know what I want to do about the rear axles though. The z31 turbo lsd and axles have been difficult to find locally and I'm not ready to drop the kind of money required on the 8.8 irs swap. I was thinking I'd just put an lsd in the stock r200 as well as upgrade the u-joints on the axles and hoping for the best. The shifter placement is another problem. I'm not going to cut into the trans tunnel as I want the shifter to come out the factory location. Nobody except one company I've seen sells one that'll fit in that location. That company however hasn't put anymore for sale on ebay. After contacting him, he stated to continue to check his ebay store for when he puts them back up (been a couple months). I believe he sold more then he could produce in that time so he took it down( price was around $300 I think ). Look up cbfperformance, its the midmount shifter that'll work (at least for my case). If anybody wants, I can take a picture of how far back the trans is. I'm probably going to drop the transmission out and fab up my own shifter bracket.