city hunter

I havent driven the car on the stock efi yet, but the car does make good power up top. From reading the articles, it sounds like I cant get enough fuel down below, but my carbs are also pretty worn out. I believe I cant get enough fuel down low with the stock needles.

I'm running a n42 with early 3 screw 44mm su's on a e88manifold with a 6-3-2 ehader. So far, I'm not real happy with them. The car is still setup for fuel injection, so I may end up going back, if I cant get any more power. Right now the car is pretty sluggish all around. I know there is a lot of tuning to do still, and possible modifying the needles. I dont think putting the carbs on will give you any more power, maybe even a loss?

Works for me. Did a search and someoen said it was o ring like. I figured one would work though, just wanted to make sure since i cant find the gas tank in the service manual.

mine seems to have disapeared during transportation. I was wonder if I will be ok with a o ring for the seal. It's the good black stuff we use on fuel injection seals n what not so I figure it should hold up for the sending unit seal?

thanks.

Can I get by with eliminating the vapor seperator hoses on the gas tank, or will this cause some issues with teh venting of the gas tank? If I cant, what kind of hose do you suggest to replace the oem stuff with?

You would never forsake your car with the superior 4g63? Yeah, it would be a shame to toss in a better engine. as for other guy? I've seen as many 2jz get crankwalk as I have seen 6 bolt 63's The 7 bolt crankwalk is a dsm only issue.

reliability a inline 6 will always have much less stress on the engine for the hp made equivilent to a inline 6. If you wanna stick with a boxer, screw the h6, put a damn porsche engine in it, they make much better boxer engines to begin with Would be much easier to start with a nssan chassis that isnt too hard to convert like a s14. If this is a bugeye, I dont know why you would ever want to do anything to that........ nm

Sounds better?

I sold my last 240z because I didnt want to deal with the wavy roof, and I knew I was never going to be happy unless it was straight. I just held out until I found a decent chassis wiht a straight roof lol. Nice work.

I've been tossing around the idea for a while now. yes there are better singles out there, but they are spendy, and I dont have them sitting on my bench like I do have a pile of 14bs. I'm already in the process of having a twin 14b setup made for my 1jz. I'm thinking spool by 4k on that engine, but I really have no idea as no one has ever done it. The turbo im talking about is the 1st gen eclipse turbo 5 speed turbo. a td05h 14b. Spools rather quickly and has a great compressor map for a stock turbo. I've seen 300awhp out of one, but realistic, 260 is easily obtainable off one. They are cheap, easy obtainable, and abundant. I figure I have 3, buy one more and get a manifold made, then fab up some piping. Anyone of you guys ran twins, and how do you like em? Also, how muc room am I going to have for routing all those water and oil lines with a typical twin setup? I dont see many twin setups, and I sorta understand why with the limited space, but it just seems like a fun project. As for the stock l28, i am not sure how it flows compared to a 1jz, but Id think it could spool the turbos before 4k.

Heres a biut more detail on what I got for 500 bucks. The car is a 1972 240z. It was converted ti a early 280z fuel injection setpu in 1982. It has a n42 l28, some nice looking 3 into 1x2 heades dumping into a divorced twin exhaust without a h pipe. 2 cherry bomb looking resonators, and thats it. The header was deburred according to the pile of receitps and notes I have. The car has steel braided lines all around, poly urethane steering shaft coupler. There is a fire extinguisher mounted behind the passenger side seat o_O autox car possibly? The car also has a allison electronic ignition, platic covers for the headlights, upgraded halogen lights of some sort from back in the day. Bilstien shocks, which probably are shot by now, Ronal super rare and light racing wheels in 14x6 with one spare and 2 wheel caps. It also came with a ton of misc spare dasun poarts, like original oem datsun radiator lines etc.. 280z seats, stock radio, ugly white interior yada yada. It's been repainted once, but the same datsun orange color, and it looks like it was taken down to bare metal for the most part. So far, rust isnt horribly bad, actrually I still think it's quite good compared to most I have looked at. Cant beat it for 500 bucks. Goals are zg flares wats, either a oem or bre rear spoiler, and the non vented front air dam, which I already have. So here is my progress so far. So, been doing a little work the last few days. When I got it. Yesterdays progress. The few hours I worked on it today. mm look at them speed holes in the passenger side floor board lol. So far im real happy with the rust though. I gotta get these god damn wheel locks off though. There is no freaken rust on my hatch at all, I just cant figure out how to get the rubber molding off. Too bad it had louvers originally so there are holes drilled in the damn hatch.

So, I picked her up last night. I'm very happy with the purchase. THe car is much nicer than any of the other cars I have went to look at. Rust isnt very bad from what I have found so far. Comes with a ton of documentation and goodies. It still has the original radio, keys and ignition. The dash only has one crack, has white interior, and 280z seats purchased back in 87. The wheels are actually ronals, and it even coems with a spare. In 1982 a previous owner had the car converted to l28 fuel injection. The car has a decent looking header on it. It's 3 into 1x2 and has a true twin exhaust going all the way back. There doesnt appear to be any h pipe on it. THe documentation says the exhaust was made by Cyclone Automotive Products of north hollywood cali. The last owner put twin early su's on it, but they must not have realized you cant run carbs with a fuel injected fuel pump, and thats why they wouldnt get it to run right I'll be tossing the fuel injection manifold back on it. I believe the car needs a new mas air sensor as the one it has is partially taken apart. I also received a vented msa front spoiler, along with a stocker, plus a lot of spare misc stuff. The guy who did teh conversion paid 1600 bucks for the l28 in 1982 . The guy was very anal about receiptsm, as I even have gi joes receipts for wd40 and a roll of towls.

Found it on craigslist, and im going out to buy it today. The guy has held it for me luckily. It is the one on seattles craigslist right now. I'm not expecting a whole lot for condition wise, but I am expecting a ton of body work in my future. As long as the roof isn't wavy I'll be happy. She has a l28 with early su's on t right now, but It also comes with a complete fi setup along with a ton of misc stuff including a cracked non ducted spoiler My plans are to basically do sort of a wangan replica with the zg flares, the bre spoiler, non ducted lip and some deep wats in maybe a 92 corvette blue. I havent decided on the exact blue I will use yet though. I havethe whole month off, I have the rest of this month and some of next month off before I start back up on turbine work in socal, so hopefully I can get her stripped patched and painted by then.

I want a clean chassis. I really cold care less drivetrain wise because I will be doing my own setup, so some built up car isnt what i want. I also dont care about paint as I will be repainting it. I just need something that doesnt have a ton of rust going through the rear quarters. Or something that is full of freaken bondo like the last car I looked at. Mainly the main body has to be straight. I dont care about front fenders headlight buckets etc.. as long as the stuff you can just unbolt and toss a straight piece are straight. Rusty floors, ok, rusty rear quarters where the crap is going through, no good. wavy roof, no good. Oh and the body lines need to line up. I have money, but I also have a 1jz with twin 14bs on custom stainless tubular manifolds I may consider tossing in for some bartering.

yeah im debating if I should buy this 73 or not. The roof isnt horrible, but it does have some waves in it. I'm just wondering if it's possible to get one without the waves. The rest of the car is pretty decent for the price though. I'm wondering if that blow dryer and carbon dioxide method will work at all? Apparently it does work on warped metal... I just hate to buy a car with a issue like this that I know is just going to be a royal pain in the butt to ever get perfect.

is this just something that happens with these cars or is it a deal where a cat or someone lad crap on top of it? I've looked at 2 and they both seem to have roofs that are a bit wavy. Are there any realistic ways to fix this issue?

good info. Thanks guys. I think I may start looking at 280's

Did a search but didnt see anything. I've been throwing around the diea for a while, since I havent been finding many decent 240z chassis around. I think it's possible, I'm guessing there would have to be some spot welds drilled out and what not. Anyone tried this? I hear the early 260z has all the wiring for it.

would be more impressive if I ever finished it instead of going off and buying a 78 dodge colt aka mitsubishi lancer, or a 240z lol Looks like I foun a much nicer chassis for around the same price, so guess I dont need to worry about this anymore. Should be starting up my apprenticeship pretty soon too finally, maybe I can get this house with a 4 car garage =D

ah I didnt know they sold complete replacement parts. THe rust is only on the edge there luckily I guess.. Hmm looks like z store carries the replacement panel area. Pretty spendy though at 94 a piece. Anyone selling them for cheaper? Maybe I can get the guy down a bit more.

I almost bought a car the other day, has some rust on the floor boards and what not which didnt bother me, a bad door and other stuff. The only thing that kept be from buying it is the front lower portion of the fender has had rust eat a small portion of it away. I dont know if there is a easy fix for this or not, but it looks like a real hard place to repair it nicely. This is a example of where the rust would be Basically about 3 inches long coming fromt the underside of the car, where all teh dirt and junk collects, and it has eaten a small portion, away, maybe 1/4 nich from where the normal crease going orwards the chassis would be. It has it on both sides. I dont even know what the best way to repair it would be let alone how. My main concern is repairing it to the point to where I wont have to worry about it looking like it was welded in or what not once the car has been painted. I dont plan on usuing sideskirts, just zg flaurs so I cant really cover it up. Whats your guys opinion on this? It will probably outcome if I buy the car or not.

just saw this. I'm definately interested in this setup. I have the cash on me. Can you get me some pictures? btw, I run the nwstarquest site, are you on it? my cel is 503 410 0021