Nismo280zEd

Not quite sure where to post this... Mods/Admins feel free to move. My friend and I are finally starting our company. We have several prototype pieces made for display. I told my partner there would be a decent interest in custom intake manifolds for the Z guys. Well... here I am offering you guys custom intake manifolds. Currently we only have a 4 cylinder prototype but you guys can still get the idea of what it's going to look like and the product quality, welds, etc. We also are selling throttle bodies to go with them ranging from 65mm-105mm. Ok so here are the 4cylinder pics I can give you more pictures if you want. So this is the general product we have, we can change plenum volume, angles, runner length (of course the flange) to best suite the Z. So... Who would be interested in this manifold? We are still a growing company and can not afford to produce say 10 sets with no sales from those 10 (we would go under). I've been on this board for several years and haven't really seen a company make these production style. I'd be willing to give the guys who make the first few orders a nice discount as you will be supporting the production order. Let me hear your comments, concerns, ideas, yays and nays. -Ed

Ok... I can't seem to find spark output B mod. The only thing i've found that comes close to what your talking about is the VR sensor mod. I'm running a PCB 3.0 board w/ 021 MSnSE code i believe. I'm just trying to wire it up so i can use my VR sensor in my dizzy for my HEI control module lol. -Ed

So I'm wiring up my new ignition module... real happy, finally going to get to drive the Z again, really nice day. Then I notice something. I'm looking at the wiring diagrams.... This one... And I don't know what to do with "B" that goes to pin6 on the db37 connector... so i look at how the MS is wired with non MSnSE and it goes into a relay, looks like it gets power. Or maybe I'm looking too hard and completely missed the obvious. (it happens) Some clarification would be great, I wanna hear my baby run again!

Where did you mount yours? I want to try to keep it away from water. Maybe passenger side would have cooler temps as well. I guess I could mount it inside the car.

I was under the impression that the HEI modules produce ALOT of heat. On the back of my 8 pin module there is a flat metal surface, i'm assuming this needs to be mounted to a metal as a heatsink with some thermal paste or something of that nature. Anybody have any pics of mounting locations, or how you did your HEI ignition? I'm using it for my megasquirt on my I6 not V8 -Ed

Well shoot man... while your over there pick me up an S15 steering wheel lol. Those are some crazy tires man... I didn't know they made 35/15's the pics are just shocking, I can't imagine what your white Z is gonna look like with that much meat under it.

nice post... and very true.

I think you guys are getting hung up on a phrase "show quality" It's like saying pretty or cool. Every person might interpret the word differently. As mentioned these are not concourse cars, we are guys tryn' to get our rust buckets to one color with some nice shine all while sitting in our garage/driveway. I doubt there are too many guys on this forum that actually have "show car quality" paint jobs. Kinda goes against this forums nature... we like to drive our cars here. thus in doing so you incure scratches and rock chips. These cheap paint techniques allow for easy fixes of such things... that's the beauty in them. Also... it is just paint. As scene in my walmart paint post you can take ♥♥♥♥ paint and make it look gorgeous. Show quality is mostly just the amount of clear put on and the amount of time sanding and buffing. btw... to get in tight crevices i would use a touch up gun and spray it.

Yeah I've gotten alot of grief for rattle canning my car. Especially since I have all the equipment neccesary to do a regular 2 stage paint job. My father has been the worst, every time I go to visit he'll make remarks, last visit his jaw droped. lol. I hope this gives some other people some cheap alternate options when they can't afford a traditional 2 stage paint job. -Ed

I used the Same clear as paint. I went to Walmart and got 5cans of flat black and 5 cans of clear I used about 3 of each to do the door and rear quarter panel. I wet sanded with some 800 grit and then used micro polishing compound then 3M perfection. After closer inspection i can see some find sanding marks... if i brought it up to 1500 then buffed i'm sure they'd go away, but i was in a hurry and curious to see results. I have krylon "camoflage" flat black on the front fender, I'm going to find some krylon clear and spray over that and sand and see what results yield, as i'm sure the cheap walmart clear is not UV resistant and will probably yellow or crack or whatever when the Texas heat hits it this summer. EDIT just checked out krylons site... the camouflage paint as well as the clear are both UV and fade resistant where as the walmart I'm sure probably isn't.

The whole point of this was to find another alternative for a cheap paint job. Spending 100 bucks I might as well go buy an actual quart of paint and spray it on the car. This is a good alternative for the rustoleum seen on here. Also it's not going to give you problems later on when you want to actually paint your car. This originally started when I got the 240 and the paint was in terrible condition. Clear coat was flaking off, etc. Plus it was maroon and honestly I just can't stand that color. Well I didn't want to spend the money to give it a "good" paint job (I have everything necesary still cost around 300-400 w/ materials), because i'm going to change out the front end of it later on. I know that in the Texas sun paint fades real quick, so i didn't want to spend the 400 and paint the car the pewter color i want, then change out the front clip, respray the front and find the colors don't match anymore. So that's how this all started. I've been playing around with different spray paints and other paints. To get a decent paint job. There is a line you have to draw, If your going to go spend 100 bucks for a cheap job, you might as well spray down some primer, flat sand all the panels, take out the dents, etc. Keep in mind you don't have to use walmart .97 paint. I have a section of krylon on there as well that I'm sure will buff out just as nice but last longer. But then your paying 2-3 bucks a can compared to a buck. I also did the roof with some duplicolor, but again was not happy with the amount you pay per can for the mil of paint you get on the car. At .97 a can i can put down aprox 2-3 mil of color and clear and still save money. Well to each is his own, jut thought I'd show you guys what I've been dabbling in for the last couple months. -Ed

That would be sweet

Check out my Walmart Special post. I've painted show quality cars. I just like the idea that you can easily fix a rock chip or scratch and not pay 1-2k to have it proffesionally redone and blended and re buffed. Even me doing my own work, I still find it a pain in the @ss to fix a rock chip or deep scratches. If i could just break out the spray can or rustoleum and then sand it again and buff it out... That'd be incredible. Plus no clean up! Properly prepared panels and good flat wet sanding and buffing will yield just as good results if not the same. Although they might not hold up as long.

Yeah i didn't think it would turn out so well... next panel i do i'm gonna flat sand and work out the dents and what not lol.

Alright everything works now... I overloaded their server lol. Got the pics back up.

I don't know what's up... the IMG tags are fine... i have the same post on another board... I think Imageshack just doesn't allow the both boards to be open on the same post at the same time. EDIT I started another account over on ImageShack, I must have overloaded the server.

I would call bullsh!t on this if I read it anywhere online so I had to take some pics to prove it. I went to walmart and bought there "house" paint for .97 a can. Flat black and gloss. Couple coats of black, couple coats of clear. It looked pretty sh!tty but hey... it wasn't maroon anymore. So today on my day off... i thought what the hell... wet sand it and see how bad it looks, I figured i'd have to re-srpay it and just leave it flat black. This is what I ended up with... keep in mind this was only hand sanding too and very quickly as i was in a hurry before the rain hit. I'm speechless... makn' a trip to walmart tonight to pick up more paint. This pick shows the before and after... I left the door how it was after i finished spraying clear... looks pretty shitty. To the right is after some light wetsanding and hand buffing and a coat of wax. The last pic is with the camera about a foot away from the paint... lol incredible for .97 spray paint. I did no prep work except scuffed the previous paint and cleaned it. This gives a new alternate from the rustoleum. -Ed

that looks scary.

I see you guys are proficient with modeling. I've only learned basic 3D stuff... I know alot of 2D CAD... what would be the best program for me to use to draw up my S14 (240sx) subframe conversion? I need to know exact dimensions, etc so it has to be specific. -Ed

too funny too funny. I'm sure my dad will never forget me taking apart all the electrical tools and gadgets around the house. Then again... my wife thinks i have a wire fetish or something lol.

incredible though... joe blow with a million bucks can go 250. Anytime he wants

pics of said seats? btw... i buzz my head now so that my "mohawk" doesn't rub the roof lol 6'1"

to each is his own.

Wanted to bump this thread as I picked up my subframe the other day from an S14 (95 240sx to be exact) Non-Hicas. Complete except for a diff... i'm wondering if i can swap the internals from a long nose into the internals in a short nose r200. But anyway.... I'm taking measurements and going to draw everything up on CAD first. I'm a little confused though... how do you correct the 3/4" offset? since the 240 diff is centered?

bump on this?