Nismo280zEd

I found these for sale in a group buy over on Zilvia.net forums but i think the buy is over. 15x7 0 offset and they have a bunch of different colors.

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thanks for the tips. -Ed

I just run the MSnSE on my 280z N/A just fuel only though. Should be pickn' up a dizzy thursday i believe

Yes I do have experience in AutoCAD however not with survey work. Although i'm sure it wouldn't take me long to learn. No.. i'm not particular as to where I stay.. I don't mind traveling a little bit either. Let me know where to send my resume good sir. -Ed

I figured it's worth a shot. I'm looking for a new job as I've found inside info that my company is hiring a new manger instead of promoting. Plus I just want somethign that pays better. Anybody in the Houston/spring/conroe TEXAS areas let me know. Skilled in many things. AutoCAD and drafting Five Years in Food Services. Waiter/bartender Cook/Su Chef IT Support networking C++, Java, HTML, decent in PHP (still learning that) Welding, fabricating, painting Looking for 10+/hr w/ benefits or 13+/hr without YOu guys get the general idea. Keep an eye out for me and let me know! Figured it's worth a shot.

I'm not worried about the heat and moisture conditions. but you do have a point with vibration... maybe if i soft mount the circuit board or soft mount the switches to the circuit board this would help reduce the possibility of failure due to vibration?

I'm a computer science major myself.. so the TV switches will work based on your math, but lets say i also have switches from a house hold stereo/amplifier or now called a reciever. This is an oldie.. so it's gotta be more tha 9v or 12v figure 24v? i have no idea honestly. and the fuse was a 2.5amp so 60 watts and well use your example of the driving lights requiring a 180 watt switch. Lets assume i'm using a 40amp relay rated at 14.4v since the load is 3x greater than the switch i have... i think i'm doing this right. So... all the switch has to do is flip the relay but... I'm not really sure what kinda wattage is required to flip the relay. ??..I'm making this harder than it has to be huh? -Ed

yeah that's a no brainer... i got that. I haven't bought switches, I've taken them out of home electronics. They are nice small little switches that can easily be placed in the Z. Problem is home electronics are usually 120v then regulated down, say for example i have a couple TV switches. simple push buttom switches. So basically low amperage high voltage. So you put that in the Z you have high amperage low voltage. Now if you work out a couple forumlas you can find out if it will work or not but i'm sure the higher amperage and spikes in the z would blow these switches. I want to build a circuit board and have these little switches to power big things like... cooling fans, fuel pump, push buttom start, a/c controls, etc. stuff like that. So i got the output side covered i think... signal wire into a relay so the switch doesn't take the load and that should work, but it's the input side i haven't gotten figured out, or designed I guess. I'm thinking I'm going to have to figure out what kind of resistor to install so that it doesn't blow the switch? does that sound right? Either way i went to the library and picked up a couple electronics books that cover the obvious stuff and the advanced stuff. Figured both would help since i taught myself most of it... I'm sure i missed a few basics along the way. Still have much to learn. I want to get crazy with custom electronics in the car. -Ed

I know quite a few of you guys out there are EE majors or just plain knowledgable in the electronics field. Now.. I'm not an idiot when it comes to electronics, however I am basically self learned. I know the basic forumlas and things of that matter, however I crave knowledge. I built my own MS box for the z and I learned alot about each device and what it does from that, but I want more. I want to be able to build and create things for the Z. Now I'm pretty good with math so that part doesn't scare me, however I need the basic resources to find out what parts do what and how they interact with each other. Can anybody recomend a couple books? or maybe websites that are useful? I want to clean up the electrical "noise" on my 280 as well as install some home electronics switches into the car. Now i know i can make them work, but i'm gonna have use some resistors or relays to lower the amperage on the switch. That kinda gives you an idea of the kind of knowledge I'm looking for. I'm going to stop by the library today, but i would like to have something more perminent to refer back to. Thank you in advance. -Ed

SEARCH!!!! we have two threads on this already. My car is painted in zero rust and has been for over 2 years now. No i did not use their clear as I didn't want it glossy. However about 8 months ago or more I sprayed PPG DBU/DBC clear right on top of it... and it has held up fine, just FYI.

Dang... My Ron Davis with over 2800 cfm of cooling will start to overheat at long stop lights. But I finally figured out the problem. My cooling system itself works, but my setup keeps too much hot air in the engine bay. Gonna wrap the headers again and put some heatshields up. And an aux fan to evacuate engine bay air at stop lights.

lol Never thought midget cars would catch on so quick on HybridZ lol Nice to see a comical light hearted thread. Keep it clean guyz. I think I'm out of Z cars for the time being PINKS left a bad taste with me. Keep the Photochops alive... looks like it's all you for now. -Ed

Ok you guyz are not going to believe this one, well maybe you will. So we tore the engine down turned out... we lined the crank sprocket up wrong, we lined it up with a mark that was on the gear instaed of the dot or indention on the gear that evidently a previous shop or someboy put on. Either way we were retarded for not catching this. The cams turned out to be about 90deg off of timing. So i'm thinking, great... were F*&*ed and have to rebuild the head again. Figure we might as well put the timing belt on right first and see which cylinders arn't holding compression now. So we get it timed correctly, start compression checking. Every single freakn' cylinder was 210ish!!! Not one single bent valve. Isn't that amazing? The car is running now and sounds pretty good. Just thought i'd leave this crazy story on here. -Ed

he's not going to be able to make it any "glossier" than how it appears in the pic already. I do photoshop as well Digital Arts original major -Ed

thanks for the offer, however i made sure O'wronglies would take it back because i suspected it was the wrong piece. Thank you very much for measuring yours. I also need it by Monday, so shipping it would be quite pricey. Thank you ver much. -Ed

I'd appreciate it man. I hate taking everything apart just to find out it's the wrong piece. -Ed

Hey guys, so i just picked up a clutch disc from O'wronglies and I think they did it again, it looks a little small. So i measured it across and it came out to 8 4/10" which converted to mm is 213.36 which the disc is supposed to be 225mm So are disc measured differently or did they screw up yet again? Anybody have one lying around they can measure for me? -Ed

sweet i'll defn' rock the 15x8 zero however I still don't think that's going to fill my flare. -Ed

yeah that's how i found the leak that was filling my floor pan behind driver seat. That was a good one. turned out the rear hatch seal was leaking on the corner trailing down the interior metal into the side panel where the speaker is down through there through another hole on the the floor board. LOL man that one was annoying.

lol man i was thinking i was the only one with water problems. I finally happened to be inside my car when it was raining installing a new switch and found the source. Mine was actually coming from the middle of the windshield running along the inside edge then down the passenger corner. I think it's coming from the black seal that's on the glas to metal trim not the big outter one but the small one. I haven't been able to stop mine yet either... good luck.

Very nice finally another n/a l28 to share tuning with. I'd like to see some more pics of the Distributor less setup as that's something i wan't to do on my N/A in the future. -Ed I guess this car doesn't need a cooling fan when it's going around a track.

Well we are about 2 hrs into tear down, we'll find out soon enough what went wrong. I'm sick and tired of this damn car, does anybody want a Maxima?

I forgot to mention i sprayed oil in the piston after the first compression check to see if it helped, it did nothing, thus leads me to believe the heads. -Ed

This one is just really agrivating me. We've had a SOHC 93 maxima that originally had leaking cam seals, so we replaced them ourselves while motor was in car. Turned out to be a bad idea, ended up scratching the housing and cam so new seals didn't seal. So we took the engine apart, took the heads to a local maching shop here (napa) a guy named richard did the heads, he's done work for us before a couple other houston Area Z guys here. He said the scratches couldn't be fixed that basically the cams and heads were toast. So he found a set off another 93 SOHC for 250. We got them home, started to assembly the heads, putting manifolds back on, plugs, etc. Found 4 exhaust studs broken off in the heads. So we take them back up to Napa, they are extremly apologetic, fix everything for free. So we finally get this motor all back together the other night... turn it over, nothing. I check the timing, ok it's off, restab the dizzy. turn it over again, one cylinder kinda tries to fire. Ok maybe it's flooded. give it a couple min, check some more things, find a vacumn hose laying loose, conect it. Try it again, three cylinders try to fire but won't start or even half start. Try again nothing. So it's about 8:30 we've been workn' on this car for months. My father and I are both pissed. so we call it a night. I come over today and compression check the motor as we pulled the plugs and they spark and we verified fuel. Guess what absolutely ZERO compression. Now i've only delt with a couple engines fully apart at my age, 2 Porsche 911 motors, severl Z motors, this VG30 series motor, and a 95 Ford Taurs SHO motor. I know for a fact the pistons are going up and down. Everything was lined up properly on the cam timing and triple checked. The engine was hand rotated through prior to starting to verify no issues with valve hitting pistons. We have rebuilt the heads on this car before and even when it had bent valves it still read like 60lbs compression. Same with the Z motor. Now maybe I just lack experience with blown motors, but I don't see how it is physically possible to have ZERO compression. I also checked the gauge on my car so I know that's not it. The only thing i can think of is maybe the wrong cams were installed or something and the valves arn't actually closing. You guys have any ideas before i take a 50lb sledge hammer to this damn car? -Ed