Nismo280zEd

This is a general rule of driving my father taught me... don't turn your wheels till your rolling, it just scrubs down the tire and wears it out quicker. Once your rolling even a little, the Z is rather easy to turn. Sitting still not moving, yes it is a bear, but like I said... try not to do that, just unescessary wear.

Actually a set of needle nose pliers works pretty good. I did the engine hanress for my dad's 911 this way, did them all by hand, then soldered the connects so they would not ever "pull loose" and short out. Came out very nice. It really doesn't take that long to do either, did it on a piece of cardboard while watching mythbusters at my place. lol. I would buy a tool however if you plan on doing this often. I plan on doing this for the wiring harness after seeing how well his came out and some buddies of mine so I'll probably end up buying one. Just letting you know for one motor you can easily do it yourself. -Ed

Brake clean has worked for me in the past, however I'm not sure what it would do to your new vavle stem seals.

I would reconsider running wires outside the car, from my experience they like to stay dry inside the car. Also less chance something will cut through them or chaff them, etc. I would run through the rocker as sugested if you want a "clean" look.

Check out the old days from 01 http://web.archive.org/web/20010607172402/www.hybridz.org/main.htm google is pulling up their index from 01... pretty cool.

Will do, I have a rather large tube. Thank you for confirmation on the VR circuit.

V3 board running 029y4 code. Trying to run like a wasted spark setup have a generic 36-1 wheel and sensor (have done the jumper from tsel-vroutinv & tachselect-vrin for a vr sensor) I have 6 coil drivers (new BIP bosch modules) that I bought from you, they are setup according to MSnSE instructions for multiple spark. As far as stim version, not positive (dont' have the board on me right now ) bought it from DIY approximatley a year ago. Stim works fine with my other MS ecu. I was just looking through V3 build instructions... for EDIS it says to use hall optical circuit, should i not be using the current jumpers? Also... should there be grease between the insulator on both sides as noted here for the BIP driver? http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/mica.gif -Ed

Ok, I added the ignition input jumpers and I get reading up to 1770rpm exactly, anymore and it goes read like I have no signal. Could this be from the setup on the chip? It probably has all code defaults after bootloading and isn't setup for COP Thus my leds arn't working properly as well? -Ed will keep trying things.

Usin stim on V3 board running lastest MS1 extra firmware 029y3 I believe and I'm getting no response from the rpm pot on my stim. Plugged in older ECU for the Z with 024 code and everything works fine. What things should I start checking?

thanks for the articles, i'm reading them now while at work -Ed

I'll have to research this...

Is there an easy way to determine low pressure zones on the front of the Z? I know you can rig up sensors and drive around but is there another simpler way? -Ed

I dont' have a picture, but the other day with my buddy we passed one that was traded in at a Jag dealership!!! What do you trade in a GTR for at a Jag dealership after waiting probably a year on a list to get one!?! We both had drop jaw syndrome... just couldn't believe it.

Looks like dirty metal to me aswell and turn up the heat a bit. or slow down the wire.

Evidently the Houston hub provides 1/5 of the nations refined petroluem. Who woulda guessed? lol I'm still on lock down at the hospital, got to go home today for a couple hours and check on everybody. Everybody is safe and doing well. Houses are intact, just some minor leaking windows, houses to the left and right of ours are not so good. We got lucky. Right now we are trying to find a place with power that has generators instock and willing to sell them, also trying to find fuel stations with power. Let me know if you hear of anything. I know here at the hospital we saw 111mph winds and possibly stronger. -Ed

Well... Our hospital has been running on back up power all day from about 6am on. We have enough fuel for about 96hrs until we have to fill up again. Not looking good, from what I have heard Galveston is gone pretty much. Approx 4million people without power from Galveston to Hunstville (about 140 mile stretch approx) Have yet to hear from my family since friday afternoon when I came in. Heard from my girl this afternoon. Neighboors house has a tree through the house, everything is ruined. The Hospital turned into an island for half the day as the rain came down flooding all the roads around us. My friends are leaving town and heading towards college station where there is power. I'm starting to feel like a refugee. Relief shift is supposed to start arriving tomorrow if they can get here, everybody is not feeling optomistic about it. I might be spending another day here, which honestly is the only place I know with internet, xbox, food, cold A/C (we are sleeping in the server room here) We found a coulpe stretcher pads to sleep on tonight, hopefully no more water surprises like yesterday. All the staff was sleeping mostly on 6th floor when the roof caved in. Compromised the integrity of the 6th floor, massive flooding on 2nd floor by SICU and leaking throughout the hospital. Things are crazy..... Hope everything gets better soon. I can't possibly imagine there being class tomorrow or work for anybody except emergency and medical personell. -Ed

Well, looks like another one is coming, this time it is coming directly for me. We are projected anywhere form 70-110mph here. I work the hospital and will be going to work tomorrow at 11am and returning home sunday or monday. Hope everybody is prepared and stays safe. Talk to you guys next week. -Ed

This is really not an easy question to answer. It's like asking... besides cost and speed is it better to buy a porsche or a corrolla. Well... ugh... they are both cars and fit people? In other words you need to look at what the MS is going to be used for and how you are going to set it up. Then compare that to haltech. If your going to run this on a Z, Haltech would be overkill in my opinion. But like I said, it depends on how you set it up and what you want it to do. I'm megasquirt all the way. It's open source code, regularly updated and full of people around the world willing to help you and come up with new ideas and solutions for the standalone system. I'm into programming and electronics so this was a clear choice for me, plus I loved putting it together! As mentioned though, Matt @ DIYautotune can definatley help you in that area, he can sell you a fully assembled tested kit setup for your car and all you have to do is install the harness and plug it in essentially. As far as installing, installing any aftermarket standalone system is going to be about the same. Using different sensors, or programming the system to use existing ones, running the harness or splicing into the existing harness, etc. Installing any standalone engine managment system is going to take some time if your new to wiring etc. Haltech is a solid standalone system however it is pricey, hard to find help with on alot of vehicles and harder to tune in my opinion. But I have friends that swear by it, then again, they suck with electronics and always call me for help. So ultimatley, it's how much you want to spend, how much time you want to spend installing, and what you want it to perform. -Ed

Good Luck brother. Over here in Houston people are freaking out. I'm not worried, I'm staying put. See you when it's over.

Thanks for the responses guys, learning alot on this one. So what would you say the min safe thickness would be around to safely shave down 2? I know if I bring it to my shop they are going to want to know what I want it taken down to. -Ed

thanks for the response, any tips on centering that thing up without that handy alignment tool you made?

sounds like the "crankshaft position sensor" is acting more like a speed sensor then. I know most 240's use the optics on the dizzy, but this would be a really cool setup if i could get this to work, then it could be transfered over to the Z without having to modify the harmonic balancer.

do you have a picture of the pulley with trigger wheel on but not installed on the motor? I'm trying to retain my A/C pulley groove also on my 78 280z and have the same exact wheel. The screws don't go into the V-grove on the balancer? Your using a 280z balancer not a ZX? -Ed (I'm curious if you have a picture down the groves, like from above.)

yes the ka24de motor specifically 95-98 chassis. I looked it up in the manual, crank shaft position sensor, sense the height changes from low to high in teeth creating a magnetic field. The sensor is magnetic. the manual says it's mainly for diagnostic use in detecting misfire, which i don't really understand. However, I know for a fact that if this sensor is damaged or unplugged, the car will not run. I'll have to see if somebody has a spare KA flywheel lying around to see if there are magnets in it or something or a shorter tooth, or missing tooth. -Ed

I was just thinking... The Z and the 240sx have the same size flywheel, same thickness, same bolt pattern, etc. Only difference between the two is a reference pin in the 240sx flywheel for orientation purposes. They share the same clutch size, etc. So I was thinking, 95-98 240sx use a sensor mounted on top of the transmission (called crank angle sensor) to time the car. I'm wondering, if you swapped the flywheel from a 95-98 240 and drilled a hole in the z transmission for the sensor, couldn't you use this for a trigger for MS?