BleachZee

oh ya, your engine looks real nice. Good engine compartment too. Well, I had a known bad turbo AFM and I swapped it on one time to see what it did. It had a slight stumble and at idle and then wouldn't rev past about 2200 rpm. Maybe you should dissasemble the AFM and carefully clean off the front and back of all the boards inside. I don't think the TPS is a problem in this case... I mean, just make sure the connector is clean and dry but I'm sure it already is. Fuel pressure should be 32 at idle.

wow! is that with an L28ET in your 240Z or is that your RB26DETT?

that sucks! Ok, the fusable link blow probably because some power wire is grounding out. Short circuit! It appears you got the wiring correct. On the plug by the ECU, I did not hook up anything but the tach signal. One single wire. yellow/white like you have. Of course, my plug has 8 connections instead of six. I have 1982 car/83 turbo engine. That won't make a difference. You don't need any other power wires hooked up there. The green thing maybe for your auto tranny that was there. Jump starting the car shouldn't do anything that I know of. The safety switch should only keep the starter from engaging. You have a pair of wires for the knock sensor which I see are plugged in. One connection for the oil sender and then the head temp sensor The rest are extra. A couple of thsoe are for your cruise control which you removed as I did too. Make sure none of those extra wires are touching the body. Maybe one has power and is hitting the metal frame which blows the fusable link. Does your fusable link box cover say what the circuits are for? Your wiring behind the battery looks good. Not having a power wire plugged in (like the blue one) would certainly not blow a link. The ground wire on the manifold is fine. I had 3 grounds right there and put them all on the manifold. They are for various sensors.

keep at it! I'm going to remove my dash soon. Swap out the auto controls for manual temp controls (includes the whole heater core, housing, and fan unit) and also apply white face gauges.

The turbo oil pressure sender unit sends a different signal than the NA one. I had that same problem. I used the turbo sender and the NA gauge. I then put my NA sender unit on the turbo block and the gauge reads properly. that's not good that your dash wiring link fried. You should have only one wire plugged into that plug just up from the ECU. One yellow wire from the coil. As for the not cranking problem, your guess seems good. The green spot. It doesn't really say if it should be grounded or have power. I think grounding is more safe. By the ECU, that single wire with insulation and a plastic single spade connector on the end; leave it unplugged. It doesn't really go anywhere anyway.

Just as a followup to my turbo 'pop' problem... it was a boost leak. Leak mainly at the base of the injectors. I didn't have those two-piece holders set in there right to squeeze the upper o-ring. Once I swapped to the larger black one-piece plastic injector holders the car ran perfect.

stock 1982 engine, 20 at idle

Yes, you're right! sorry... for the coil the black wire (with white stripe) is power. oops... ya. so it sounds like you got it. Your NA coil wiring powers up the turbo coil as normal. That's all it needs is power. Then the yellow wire on that little side plug sends a tach signal to the ECU so it can adjust the timing advance/retard as the rpms go up. The side plug black wire just grounds...? I think. here it is the pic. It shows which connection on the harness to plug that yellow wire from the coil transistor into

You should run a hose from the J-pipe to the PRV on the #4 intake trac as indicated in this pic. This is basically your factory BOV. It will release air into the intake manifold and allow a slower spindown of the turbo. With no hose hooked up and no BOV, most likely that black plug you slipped on there will pop out anyway. not to the AAC plug that is seen in the pic with the black cap on it. It is the thing that looks like a big PCV valve just hidden in this pic.

Yes white is the temp sensor (top) Green to yellow. This sounds right from what I remember. My Z is tucked in for the night and i'm about ready for sleep too. My factory wires were already cut and spliced in. I cut that part out and re-did them so I had to test fit to see what worked. I'll double-check tomorrow and post at work. As for the plugs by the fusable links, the white wire is some kind of control for the auxilary radiator fan that the turbo has. it tells the dash harness when to kick it in. Well, we don't have that feature. Just tape it off. My 1982 car had the blue wire but honestly you should be ok without it. I can check on it later though. then when running that band of wires from the NA harness (from the driver's fender) yes one wire goes to temp. The other wires include power for the NA dizzzy and other crap. Just cut it all off. I cut mine back (never gonna use it again) and ended up only having one single wire running from the fender out to the plug. The rest taped up and tucked inside the fender tunnel behind that plastic cover that is behind the coil. Two of those wires in that bundle were for the power and ground to the coil of the NA car. Re-use those. Tie those into the power and ground of the turbo coil. Those will already be turned on with your key! Then, run the one single wire (yellow?) to the ECU, blue goes to POWER from your NA harness, black goes to ground. Look at your NA setup if its still there on the coil. I believe blue wires were power. That should be right. for what its worth wires cut and simplified to just 3 I took these pics but failed to get final pics of what I made! I'm looking through the albums and there's nothing really good of the wiring. on my turbo parts car I cut this plug off the dash harness. This is the dash side (turbo) of the plug that goes into the ECU/FI harness right above the ECU. I did this so I could find the correct wire, tap the one coil signal wire into it and then just 'plug' it into the harness. I like to have that removable connection. You probably have that page with the sloppy notes on what these wires are...? some other link I gave you I think. then under the dash this is the plug it goes into sorry for the delay. I've been busy with my own project. I'm trying to get my Pulsar on the road before the end of the month so I can drive that bad boy through the winter and finish up the Z.

so you're just going to drop the engine right in there without tearing it down or anything? that'll be a quick swap. clean it while it is in the ZX. degrease, wash it, dry it, make sure it still runs good. (dry out the TPS) wash off the bottom of the engine and tranny too. It'll be nice to pull it out all clean. You can wear white clothes while you work!

You don't really need one with a stock motor. I just removed mine for now until I can take the time to hook up the recirc properly. The Silvia BOV should do it for me.

t-tops, doors, door glass, and rear hatch are different sizes on the 2+2 and coupe. FYI

A lot of people have not done it. A lot of people use the SOHC head that came on the L28 or swap to an RB engine. Maybe an RB30et block with an RB25DET head gives you 3.0L DOHC. That's a swap you can do. There is no DOHC L-series so there is no head to swap from another car. If you're talking about a custom made head from a KA engine.... you can find the thread and see what that's all about. That's only one case.

The silvia BOV is a recirc unit but I have it going to open air. It sounds crappy too... very quiet and low tone. I suppose it flows fast.

I've known about the OS head for many years. They made it for both the 4 and 6 cylinder L-series. Buy an RB25DET engine.

My Z runs strong at 6psi. I can tell a big difference from 6 to 9 psi. (no intercooler)

The aftermarket OS head was DOHC and is impossible to find these days. no L-series came with DOHC from the factory if that's what you were thinking.

I actually got 32mpg highway but not with the 3.9 rear they came out with in 1981. I had to swap out to a 3.54 rear and keep the tall 5-speed to get that milage. I see you have an OS head on your L6. hehe

hahaha! I just took the L28ET out of a 2-seater and slapped it in my 2+2! if you lived closer I'd be asking for the 2+2 t-tops and door windows just as spares. probably too costly to ship up here... good luck on that swap. It'll be easy.

Personally I wouldn't trust any of those cheap ones for $59 or less. Probably junk. They might work ok but maybe they'll fall apart one day when you need them. Get the last one for $135. R2D2 I hope it beeps just like R2D2. I just put on my Nissan Silvia (factory) BOV and it sucks. Its worse than the Forge one. It sucks in air at idle and lets out boost at only 4psi. What a piece of crap... ...now I actually have to spend money on a BOV... or basically I won't have one for a while.

Dishy goodness! I'm running a tall 3.54 right now... maybe a 3.7 some day

you can probaly use a section of the power steering resivour mounting bracket as your blockoff plate. some guy posted a pic of an L28et installed in an 81 with full power steering. He cut the actuator mounting plate a little and it fit but was right next to the turbo. you'll get +1hp with that manual steering rack. no way will I be able to keep up with you now! now you won't have to worry about leaking fluid either. these power steering racks can be annoying.

205/60/15 is factory tire size for the turbo. I put the engine in first, then laid the wiring on top for my install. Paint up that engine bay while the engine is out. I'm glad I did. I just used semi gloss black spray paint but it looks pretty good.

those 15's look good! (200 is a price for 14's, if you sold the 15's you should ask more) Keep the 15's like you were saying, with how low your car is, those will look nice. The tire size you mentioned will look good too but be a little shorter than stock... your speedo will read faster than you're going. Just keep that in mind. I still haven't put that wastegate in. I'm not so sure about trying to break those bolts loose on my daily driver. I might try some penetrating oil daily for a few weeks to free up the wastegate lever that is on there now.