BleachZee

wow, new calipers and stainless braided brake lines. I'm not sure how to visually tell differences in the control arms from 79-81 and 82-83.

It is not that hard of a swap. If your automatic Z is in good condition then swap to 5-speed. If your Z is messed up, then possibly get rid of it and find a better one with a 5-speed.

maybe a prior owner needed new rear brake calipers and bought used ones from a 1981 because it was cheaper than $250 each from Nissan. If they don't bolt on someone may have just swapped the entire rear trailing a-arm

seriously you guys Just put the 3-speed auto back on It would have been easier

Can you post info on the brand name and part numbers? Maybe scans of the box you got.

did you get lucky?

seriously...

Looking at the other pictures on the imageshack page of that 1979 turbo, I can see it 'appears' to be an NA engine with an added turbo on it.

there is also a Godspeed intercooler with inlet/outlet on the same side. That is the route I'm going.

"JDM Sport" is the brand! lol

Nice looking car and I like those headlights.

On the swap mentioned in the first post, I'm not sure but I think the 81 turbo auto has an R200. (might have R180 because its an auto) I had a 280ZX 2+2 NA with 5-speed that I switched to turbo engine and T5. I installed the T5 itself no problem. Took the rear trans mount and turned it around 180. NA and turbo use the same exact piece. (auto may be different) the T5 does use a unique driveshaft. Swap the driveshaft and the front end of the diff where the driveshaft bolts to. that part is not the same on the non-turbo or the auto Z-cars. If your 1981 turbo has an R180, then swap in the R200 and half-shafts from the 1983 Z. In my case I just had to find a 2+2 turbo driveshaft for a T5. I got lucky and found one fairly quickly.

I've seen one in person.. sat in it when it was for sale here in Washington. What a mess though. they are the same. Red dash like any red interrior 280ZX. All power options basically. They have a special emblem in front of the shifter. Silver like a Turbo Z but it says 10th on it and has the car's number.

Rear quarters require precision cutting and welding. That is the worst place on the Z to have to repair. so sad. The car may be totaled.

The air filter goes to the side of the intercooler. The red car shows it next to the hood hinge. The goal is to get it forward of the radiator support so it pulls in air outside of the engine compartment. Under the headlight bucket is also acceptable.

A few years ago I had seen some that look like his, with the dome shaped design. They were pricey. $700 a pair but they are true HID all-in-one kit. http://www.brightheadlights-hid.com/5-7in%20Round-Projectors.htm http://www.suvlights.com/product_info.php?products_id=255

so very sad. Larger trucks seem safe but they tend to roll easier.

emo kid applies the red stripes wearing skin tight black jeans

You have to find the larger sheering shaft adaptor. 1983 and OLDER z-cars are all compatible. 300ZX + will not work. if you buy a "Sparco style" 6-bolt adaptor for a 240Z, 510, ect Datsun then you can use any aftermarket 6-bolt steering wheel that matches that. The Datsun one is a little hard to find. I found mine recently on eBay. Ordered it from Thailand and got it quickly in the mail. I've seen some adaptors that list 1990's cars and then include the 1978+ 200SX. I think that is a type-o because 1989 Nissans and 1979 Nissans do not use the same adaptors. (please get the first steering wheel) oh, and notice the diameter of those steering wheels. 300 or 320mm is small. The stock wheel is just over 350mm. I got a 350mm and I wouldn't go any smaller myself.

for the front, either 16 or 17" diameter are good. 8" wide works with clearance on all sides. (zero offset) 8.5" is about the max you can go, with +10 to +12 offset and still clear. If you plan to remove the inner splash guard and roll the fender lip then you may be able to squeeze a 9 inch wide wheel up front. The back can hold closer to 9.5" wide wheel with +10 to +20 offset approx. As for tire outside diameter size, the stock is 205/60/15. You can use one of many online tire calculators to find a suitable 17" tire to match or be close enough. 245 width is no problem. That is pretty narrow. There are many options for 3-piece wheels which cost around $500-600 per wheel. Otherwise, much cheaper options are Sportmax 002 16x8, or Rota RB come in 17 and 16". The 17's are available in 8" wide and wider, while the 16's are 8" or more narrow.

does the engine tick loudly like it has no oil pressure or is it just that the guage doesn't read any pressure? The pressure sending unit goes bad far more often then the engine will actually loose pressure. How long does it run before it dies? If its only for 3 seconds or less then you won't get good pressure that fast anyway. And what timing was way off? the cam timing or the ignition timing?

1979-83 front brakes are the same. It is the rear brakes that changed for 1982-83. Also, that pic you posted is of a 280Z, not a 280ZX. Those models have much different front strut assemblies. I wonder if that is the issue.

I had similar popping problems and after swapping AFMs and checking ECU connections the actual problem was a boost leak. I had put in new fuel injector o-ring seals. One of them had somehow fallen off when I installed the fuel rail and all six injectors into the manifold. I replaced it and the bucking went away. Basically a very small boost leak can cause one cylinder to run rich or lean. There are hoses all over that intake manifold. Check, replace, or eliminate them.

I found the picture of my final intake manifold setup.